How much are you paying for your 2018 Tacoma?

Man...yall have been scooping these 18 deals..LOL. I lost out on 2 SR5 4x4 deals. I think some member right here got one at Freeman down in Santa Rosa .

I've been looking specifically for SR5 trim (4x4) but wonder how much REAL price difference is to SPORTS trim in the same config minus discounts? $3k? I'll be content with either but a penny saved is a penny saved (SR5)!!. Or maybe I'm reading too much into the forum where my mind has been brainwashed to get a higher trim level vs SR5 !

 

I am not currently shopping but in late 2015/early 2016 when I was shopping I bought my Sport out of state for the same price as a similar equipped local SR5. It was well worth it to get the nav, better wheels, grille, led drl's and interior trim. Nothing wrong with the SR5 but I just could not get a deal on one at the time. Looks like people are getting some killer deals on 2018 OffRoads and Sports now.

 

I also just picked up my Taco from Freeman in Santa Rosa. Had got email quotes from all over the bay. SF Toyota and Freeman were the best by a good margin. Wanted to work with Toyota Marin where I test drove and got great service but he said he couldn't beat Freeman's price. Freeman also had just about every color, option package combination, and transmission. Every other dealer had ONE manual transmission TRD OR, maybe premium, maybe not. I wasn't picky on color, but had my first and second choices in Santa Rosa. Was worth the drive!

2018 TRD Offroad DCSB 6MT, MGM, Premium + Tech for $34,633 ($33,633 after $1k incentive). Non-premium was $33,174 (32,174 after $1k), but decided to go with the premium for easier fur cleanup off the leather and moonroof for dog ventilation. Also the cloth interior had a really strong chemical odor.

Taxes and title in CA is pretty bad. Added about $3400 to my final price. KNOW YOUR expected TAXES before you go. https://www.dmv.org/buy-sell/tax-and-tags-calculator.php can help. Punch in the best quote you got from your email. Make sure to ask and include their document preparation fees or any other fees they want to add. They are all negotiable. I let them get away with $80 in doc prep fee.

Check your credit score for free from a site like creditkarma.com. Know your expected loan payment beforehand. https://www.autotrader.com/calculators/ This can also help you decide between cash back or low APR (In my case, choosing $1k cash back resulted in $467/mo @ standard 2.9% APR. If I chose the 1.9% APR instead of $1k cash back, it comes out to $473/mo. So you can save a whopping $6/mo by picking the right incentive.

Your monthly payment that the dealer offers should be VERY close or exactly what you calculate beforehand, when you include your expected tax/title/license/registration.

JUST SAY NO to service plans, extended warranties, and "security systems" IMO. Change your own oil, work with an independent shop, and re-enable the factory security system yourself if you want it Warranties never seem to cover what breaks, when it breaks. Service plans are over priced even though they make you think it's a deal. Save your money instead to fix what breaks.

 

MSRP 39138

 

I shopped 3 dealers (local, 60 miles away, 90 miles away), mostly through the Internet and e-mails, and they knew I was browsing all three. Dealers pay interest on the vehicles sitting on the lot, so I waited until near the end of the month, they would be more eager to cut a deal. Plus there was a $1,500 Toyota rebate that was about to expire, which didn't cost the dealer anything. I wound getting my truck from the most distant dealer.

 

That’s what I paid. I got a cement 2018 TRD Sport 4X4 DC with premium package and tech for that exact price after negotiations. In Phoenix.

 

I found a good deal on a cement TRD OR with all packages in AZ recently also! They must have all the deals there haha. Too bad it's 20 hours away.

 

Austin TX Area. I was able to get what I thought was a deal on a TRD Off-Road AT with Toolbox, TRD Wheels and tires, Tech package, blind spot for $36K after discount and incentive (+Tax). Once I sold the take off wheels, the price I ended up paying was $35,200 which I thought was a steal.

On a side note. The Round Rock Toyota is owned by Penske which also owns the BMW of Austin dealership. They do not disable the seatbelt chime unless you buy the vehicle from them and tried to charge me $499 for that.

I purchased in Cedar Park but told the Round Rock Sales guy my best offer was $33,000 because i put a $3000 price on dealing with Penske.

 

I'm wanting to buy either:

2018 Tacoma, Cement, 4x4 double-cab, Off-Road, short bed, tech package
-or-
2019 Tacoma, Cavalry Blue, 4x4 double-cab, Off-Road, short bed, tech package

My local dealer has this as the MSRP for each of these vehicles.

2018 - $39,331 - $1000 (incentive) = $38,331

2019 - $39,535 -


I feel like these are way overpriced and wanted to see if anyone could provide some insight on how to haggle these down? I would really like to pay under $35,000 for the same specs I mentioned above plus get them to throw in predator steps and a bed mat for 'free'.

Also, I'm torn between the cavalry blue and cement so I would ultimately buy whichever one I could get for a better deal.

 

So, it seems doable. I reviewed my buyers order.

Price was $36,500 minus the $1500 rebate = $35,000. I negotiated the $1000 for TRD Wheels and tires which brought me up to $36,000. (Tires and wheels were a second set and I sold my stock tires/wheels on CL)

 

Don't pay that much. I got mine on the road for 33,500. 2018 OR DCSB 6MT..

When you haggle with them always offer on the road price I never bid on just the truck price.

And if they don't give you your price go somewhere else and have them give you their offer. Take the lowest price to the other dealer back and forth until one quite going lower. If it's not an emergency take your time and get what is comfortable for you! I went to multiple dealerships before signing papers. Always had proof of what the other dealer offered.

 

What do you mean by 'road price' ?

Yeah, I'm not in a hurry...I can ride it out until next year if it takes that long to get a good deal. I'm just more so looking for some pointers on negotiating it down to under $35,000

 

He means out the door price. Which is not a good comparison because it could include trade-in, taxes, license, registration, etc. All of these things are different for each person and each state typically. It's been a recurring post in this thread:

Do not put Out the Door (OTD) price
It's not a good comparison

 

Most people know this, but I will share in case anyone does not.
There are a few categories that make up the price.

• Factory vehicle price
• Distributor add-ons
• Dealer add-ons
• Buyer add-ons.

A good rule of thumb is that distributor / dealer add-ons are 2x to 4x more expensive than buying elsewhere.
Examples:

• Distributor black out kit = $399 ($100 on ebay for OEM kit from FL Toyota dealership.)
• Distributor running boards = $649 ($200 on CL from another guy who did not want them and took them off.)
• Dealer Tint = $399 (This would cost under $100 anywhere, but not something that can be removed.)
• Dealer mats = $199 (make sure you get the ones you want and consider this a free item when negotiating.)

So, here is how I would recommend you approach finding your price.

• Set your price after doing research for the big deal items and Factory features you can't realistically add on after like (sun roof, leather, etc.)
• Set your pain threshold for the distributor and dealer add-ons, but honestly, I do not put a dollar on these above the base vehicle because they cant be removed. At best, you can have the dealer pass these add ons at their cost which again is about 1/3rd what the distributor is listing the item on the sticker you see.
• As far as user items, place a dollar value about 1/3rd what the parts department charges. Make your offer contingent on these add-on parts. You will never get some OEM parts cheaper than you will during negotiation.
• Stand your ground and lead with your best offer. Don't give one inch. They won't let you go get lunch if your offer is fair.
• Have the sales guy work for you. Everytime he comes back from the negotiation desk, don't budge; instead offer to save him another trip up there by walking away.

 

Did you have to pay the AZ $2,000 dealer add-on that is seen at all AZ lots? My brother has lived out there for 14 years and we go back and forth on deals here and there...

 

I mean offer them a price that will have you taxed licensed and everything..

My truck msrp was like 37,000 and I ended up paying 31,500 for it. After all the tax and fees I ended up paying 33,500. 500 over what I offered, which was 33,000.

 

It's pretty simple here

31,500 for the truck isn't too bad for 5 miles on a 2018 OR

 

Posting what you paid out the door is not a good comparison for people not from the same state, or if you don't list trade-in or taxes or other things. This has been repeated ad nauseam by multiple members. No one said you got a bad price

 

I know what you mean. My only point is you know what the truck is going to cost you. You don't end up paying 3,000 more than you offered if that makes sense. 34,000 sounds great til all the fees.

My bad.

 

You are trading in a year old vehicle with above average mileage. The problem is that the vehicle is so new that theres very little auction data available for the dealer to make a price. On top of that, buyers will be comparing it to 2018 and 19's on the lot with 5 miles.

Then you combine the fact that your offer lists no money down on a trade vehicle you still owe a considerable amount of money on and it's a miracle you werent completely upside down. Lastly, the banks are going to look at you bouncing from one vehicle loan to another and will adjust their offers to compensate.

I wish you luck with your private sale, but knowing what I know about how the dealerships operate, that is no surprise you got that offer. Maybe consider leasing if you want to swap your vehicles every year. Mileage limits being the only concern.