Clutch slipping first thing in the morning

Is the clutch fluid shared/same as the brake fluid? I wonder if switching to a lower viscosity fluid will help with the cold

how many miles on your truck. Maybe your clutch is still breaking in also.

 

Mine does the same thing. If you have ever driven a high horsepower car with a pucked unspung clutch you've felt it before. Its typically referred to as clutch chatter and its when the clutch is grabbing and releasing as you are slipping the clutch from a start. It is very different from clutch slippage as that is when you are no longer pressing the pedal but the revs increase without the driveline following.

Whats concerning for me is that chatter could be from contaminants getting into the bell housing (water, oil from a seal leak, coolant, etc.). I personally think its water, as when it rains its far worse and when there is a lot of morning dew it is also bad. Once its 100% up to temp it goes away entirely.

Edit: Its common for chatter to occur on clutches that are rated for higher torque. Since we have a truck that is meant to tow and possibly go off road it would make sense.

 

I gues once in a while, but I chalk it up to my piss poor clutch work. I just push the clutch again and were good to go

 

Don't push the the truck that hard when you are warming up the engine still. Just keep the RPMs around 2000-2300 and accelerate gently. like to keep below 2500rpm atleast until the engine is at temp. And I will wait a few more mins still until the engine oil is up to temp also.

 

I'm guessing it's humidity/moisture. The 6MT has a little plastic access port on the side. There is no gasket for it.

 

Same here. Never rev her up past 2000-2500 on a cold motor. I wait until the temp gauge starts to approach the mid-point. As quickly as these trucks come up to temperature, I can wait 1-2 miles.

Good feedback. As many manual vehicles as I have owned/driven, I've never seen this before and I've put hundreds of thousands of miles on clutches.

 

It can also happen if the flywheel or friction material is uneven or worn in spots. Basically the friction plate is not getting enough surface traction resulting in shuddering as it grabs intermittently. Hopefully it's not a wearing issue, but chatter is a sign of wear.

 

If the flywheel or clutch plate was worn it would always happen. Since it goes away after being warmed up wear wouldnt be an issue. Chatter can be a sign of wear, but its also normal on high torque rated clutch/pressure plate combos.

 

There are "vents" all over the bell housing. It's for the clutch material and heat to dissipate out and away from the mating surfaces. prime locations for other things to get in there as well.
Just changed my stock clutch to a LCE Pro kit. Best thing EVAAAAARR!

Far as slip is concerned, I dunno about all that. Can't say mine did/does in the morning. I just drive it or I overlook it. Be it on the slipping stock clutch or this aftermarket one.

Hose it out with brake cleaner once in a while. Pull the boot off the fork and lube the TOB and fork mating surfaces. DO THIS! Ask me how I know...

In regard to brake/clutch sharing same resi; yes, my 2nd gen does. My experience, when the fluid got low, brakes still worked but the shifting got worse. So in the future, if your shifting goes to hell in a hand basket, check the fluid and add it. At least you can still stop. Of course, this was all realized and done in my driveway during clutch install, so call that a controlled environment and not running 75 on the interstate.

 

I'm just glad it's not just my truck...misery loves company.

 

On my old 2008 the clutch did get it's fluid from the brake reservoir, it did better in the cold than my 2015 or 2017 with separate reservoirs

 

Absolutely not. The additive package is not temperature dependent. They work at 30 degrees F as well as 120 degrees F. The ONLY reason you would let the vehicle warm up was to change the viscosity, which on dino oils, is definitely temperature dependent. With synthetics, the viscosity index based on temperature is basically flat so the viscosity of the oil is basically the same, cold or hot.
Do some research and quit cringing lol.

 

Same here, it’s around 60F that it happens, not so much the summer hot or winter cold

 

I agree that there is no “temperature activation” of additives......I used to work in R&D as a chemical engineer for a motor oil additives company

 

Mine chatters a bit cold too. Only on initial engagement. My is300 does the same. I dont worry.

 

Which would be? 0.o

 

@hiPSI

Not what this guy says. Minute 2:45
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=3oAsa8P0o4I

I found this too.
https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/31107/oil-lubricant-additives

Additives that perform this function are rust inhibitors, anti-wear (AW) and EP additives, oiliness agents and corrosion inhibitors. AW additives work specifically to protect metal surfaces during boundary conditions. They form a ductile, ash-like film at moderate to high contact temperatures (150 to 230 degrees F)

 

I think you entirely misinterpreted what he was saying. He was not talking about loads on cold started motors, but that water and contaminants in the oil do not get burned off since the motor oil does not heat up enough for short trips. More about foamed oil than loads. We can get more into the weeds there, but BITOG might be a better destination?

That said, he was also making a VERY broad statement about many vehicles. I believe folks have shown, due to the low viscosity of our oil and the large cooling system, that by the time the coolant is at temp, so is the oil. Easy to verify with an OBD adapter.

 

Infineum

 

My typical more commute consists of, starting the truck and waiting til it drops down to low idle, then driving a half mile barely going 30. Come to a stop, and turn on to a busier road. If I don't get the revs up in first to 3k plus when I shift to second, it bucks like a dog shitting razor blades (maybe not that bad).