3D Tacoma Parts Thread

Great thread idea!! Hope more stuff gets posted!!

 

I've heard of Fusion 360, thanks for the suggestion. Both my Tacoma and S2000 have aftermarket wheels without center caps, and they would both look so much better with them. Kinda hoping its not too hard to design some simple center caps for both sets of wheels. Guessing it will take a few tries though.

 

Very cool. This is something I have wanted for awhile so I can move the rear window switch to upper console.

 

As promised. Final version completed. Made a few more adjustments to make the clip stronger. It will also get a lot stronger once I acetone bath it. Also tightened the switch hole .1mm for a solid fitment. Might require a light sand down but I wanted it to clip firmly in place and v3 could be pushed out unlike the original with a little force from behind.


New users have a 24 hour cooldown time on thingiverse... Check first post and my signature for links tomorrow after 11:09PM

 

How well do those detailed features on the cad show up in the print?

 

The only thing that doesn't show up well in my print are these :




I am printing on a Davinci AIO 1.0 and my stepping size is .1mm minimum. The above print is done at .4mm stepping fast print but looked the same on the .1mm print. I cracked off the tabs on my v3 .1mm print though so couldnt take a picture . Looks essentially the same though just smoother. I imagine it would look better on your printer though for sure. Print it for science!

Ill put up an album of close ups for you tomorrow when this final print is done for myself.

 

An you explain why and how to do an acetone bath?

 

Good question. So home 3d printers are no where near as capable as production 3d printers. In a post above I am talking about stepping height. My home 3d printer can do .1mm of layer height and I can print with ABS and PLA material. It lays a layer .1mm thick and then prints a second .1mm thick layer on top of that and so on to make the piece until all of the .1mm layers are printed and you have a final piece. As the layers move up, there are small variances causing each layer to be slightly left or right of the previous layer, you can calibrate and take steps to minimize this but eventually you will reach as good as you can get with your equipment. Its really close but as each of those layers build on top of each other, a flat surface ends up not being perfectly flat.


I am pretty sure I read somewhere that MESO uses a HP Fusion 4200? which is capable of printing at layer thicknesses of 0.07mm!!!! (Probably faster than mine too!) It uses a powder to be able to print those layers a lot smaller, so small you cant even see them with the naked eye. It is also capable of fusing its layers together like this image :


So the acetone bath for my prints is a poor mans way to finish a piece and fuse the outside layers together. Some of the vapor will also make its way inside of the piece and fuse the internal layers together as well. Acetone eats ABS and so if you can get acetone vapors around your print, it actually melts the visible .1mm layers together giving a smooth shiny finish like you would expect from a production part. Because the outside is now a fused together shell, the part gets stronger, looks better, and is easier to prime and paint.




The how :
There are two main methods, cold baths and hot baths. Hot baths basically put the print in a glass container on a platform (metal ring or piece of wood). You then seal the container and apply heat to the bottom causing the acetone to vaporize. Its a lot faster than a cold bath but it can be dangerous. If the glass explodes you have a potentially flaming shard bomb in front of you. Wear protection if your going to do this. A much safer method is a cold bath and its what I would recommend. Heres a link that details the steps better than I could.
https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/acetone-vapor-smoothing

 

My buddy printed this up for me on his Prusa. Have yet to buy the parts but eventually it will hold a Blueseas fuse panel (6 fuses), a BlueSease circuit breaker and four relays.

 

Dude thats dope!!!! What are the external dimensions of that? Do you still have the file he used? I would love to spit one of those out.

 

Roughly 8.2" wide, 6.1" deep and 1.3" high. PM me and I can send you the Fusion file.

 

Can a 3d printed part withstand the heat and elements under the hood?

 

I think so if finished properly. There are plenty of plastic parts under your hood. If not then the same cad drawing can be used on a cnc machine for a metal print.

 

Yes, but not PLA.

 

Im printing ABS. Only one way to find out. Im fairly certain that multiple parts in the engine bay are ABS.

 

< Grabs a lighter >

 

<Grabs a bong>

Now its a party!

 

Awesome info that I've been wondering about. Thanx to all for sharing info and files!! Sub'd....

 

Hey Meso, heres a bunch of closeups the best I could capture. All rounded faces look great, the only thing that you cant really see is the tiny supports on the front of the clips. There is some plastic mass there but not really in the triangle shape, basically just a dob of plastic lol. Ill can send you a finished one to the address that was on the outside of my ultimate turn signals for better inspection if you want :https://imgur.com/a/cKg49T9






V4 Printed and having finishing treatments applied now.

This is how it starts with supports. I tried not to break any of the supports off so you could see them well but a few stuck to the print bed. Supports are used to support angled pieces usually > 45degree. You can really see the curve of the piece with the supports on the front face.


Heres all 4 versions


Removing Supports on the right side


Supports Removed


All supports Removed and onto the next step, sanding face smooth, and then filling any pits with ABS slurry before sanding smooth.



After pits smoothed out and surface flat, bath time. Ill probable do another post tomorrow night with progress.

Additionally, @johnny1019 was kind enough to send me his fusebox mount files and approved me sharing them out for everyone, so as soon as I can put up STL files on thingiverse tonight that will be available as well.

 

Sportbikes have used ABS plastic for body panels for years. There is plenty of heat around the exhaust systems on those, even with the stick on reflector heat shields.