belt, tensioner & pulley, and idler pulley. part numbers

thanks for the info. I did my 1st belt from the bottom. What is so hard about the tensioner?

 

just by chance, would these parts #'s be good for an '08, 2.7L, 4-cyl, base model?

 

oh man.. that was a while ago.. I'm trying to remember, but I dont think I needed anything specific. I do remember it being a PITA tho, (for multiple reasons) and I ended up replacing the entire tensioner anyways. I'll poke around some more and see if I still have any pictures or write-ups.

 

ok, I looked through my old posts. I swapped the bearing itself so I wouldnt have to remove the entire tensioner and AC compressor, etc that is involved with the standard replacement. I ended up still having the squeal until the truck fully warmed up, so I ended up swapping the entire tensioner again later and it solved my issue. The tensioner itself was at fault for my scenario, but if you just need to swap the bearing, it is possible.

 

Just change the bearing in the tensioner pulley. Go to an Industrial maintenance supplier near your local industrial wasteland and they should be able to get one for you. Just give them the PN that @Chuy listed above.

 

i remembered you tried doing the pulley first....i do know its reverse thread as well.....

 

refer to this:

 

ok thanks for the info. I'm going to do it all. just have to set aside the weekend

 

A press is handy, along with assorted sizes of sockets and cups from a BJ kit or another pulley.
On utube, you'll see some DIY'ers successfully use a hammer and others use a hex bolt and washer.

The important thing is pressing the new bearing into the pulley by the outside edge of the bearing. This keeps the stress off the bearings. If you press in the middle, you'll mess it up. It's OK to press in the middle to remove the bearing, but not to install it. You can use the old bearing to press the new one into place; but again, press on the outside. If you use a bolt/nut to press the new bearing, use washers wide enough to 'grab' the outside edge of the new bearing. Here is where the old bearing come in handy because as the top of the bearing becomes flush with the pulley, anything wider than the outside edge of the new bearing will prevent it from seating fully into the pulley.

 

Using a bearing punch, and shows using a socket (and funny dude):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JWd8LFPCPBg

Using a vice:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=daPZetyJwZA

Using a bolt and some ingenuity:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BE3TKmqSBoI

 

I used a c-clamp, 27ish mm socket, 2 pieces of steel box tube, and the edge of a table to form a makeshift press. Just prop it up on the steel as wood will absorb a lot of the force, then simply press it out and put the new one in. Took 10 mins once you get the pulley out. I found the hardest part of the job to be putting the new serpentine belt on. Turns out, this job is a lot easier if you go up from the bottom and crank the tensioner from down there, and have a second person slip the belt over the PS pulley from the top as the last pulley.

 

Thanks for the pn’s ! I have 124k on my belt , I was thinking this might be a good maint. Item to do . Is is necessary to do the pulleys ? Or just a good idea to have done

 

always do the pulleys with the belts for the best results

 

Ok thanks ! How about water pump too ?

 

Shouldnt have to worry about that one. I dont think it has a bearing...

 

Wow really , I always thought/heard it has to be done also

 

Not on the 4.0s, at least not that i have ever been made aware of

 

These parts you listed are all just pulleys/ a belt, and not the tensioner assembly as well? I’m about ready to order pulleys upon recommendation from a friend.
Thanks Brian

 

@Pibbles99 The tensioner part # refers to the tensioner assembly. If you google the part #, you’ll see the assembly.

In many cases it’s the bearing in the tensioner pulley that only needs replacing but Toyota doesn’t offer it separately. The tensioner bearing size is 17X40X17.5 (bearing types 5203-2NS, 5203-2NSL, or 5203-2RS); to my knowledge only Febest offers a pulley/bearing combination, #

$44 0187-GRJ200 OEM 16620-31012

0187-GRJ200.

 

I replaced all of my pulleys, belt, and alternator a couple of weeks ago.

I ordered the Gates tensioner assembly, since you can’t just order the pulley. However I did not install the entire thing. It looked like a real pain. Instead I removed the pulley from the new part and replaced the old one. Working great and no noises.

it is definitely cheaper to just replace the bearings. I used new parts to save on time instead.