Hardwire Installing a Dual(Front + Rear) Dash Cam - 3rd Gen Tacoma

Hey Everyone,

I had a dash cam installed in my last car(2015 VW GTI) I removed that camera so I could install it on my new Tacoma. I have a write up below but I also did a full install video on my YouTube channel.

So if you prefer videos you can check it out here: https://youtu.be/edHWtM7g5Cw

It's a pretty straightforward job and it is SO nice not having wires all over the place, while also knowing you have the security of a dash cam in your truck. Let me know if you have any questions!

Parts List:

• Dual (Front/Rear) Dash Camera - https://amzn.to/2H1tWH4
• Hardwire Kit for Dash Cam - https://amzn.to/2pY8Vpm
• Alternative Add a Fuse for OTHER USB Cameras - https://amzn.to/2pV9L6e
• Pry Tool Kit - https://amzn.to/2H2CAFr

Step 1 - Remove your A-Pillar Covers


Step 2 - Locate your fuse and replace with "Add a Fuse" (Washer Fuse located in driver side footwell)


Step 3 - Stuff the wire up behind the pillar and the headliner



Step 4 - Remove/Use your GoPro Mount for the New Camera AND at this step if you purchased the Dual camera you can run the next wire along the headliner


Step 4.5 - Continue to run and stuff all those wires along the floorboard of your truck until you reach the back




Step 5 - Plug the wire into your rear camera, in my case mounted to the window(Take care to not block your sliding rear window)

 

Nice write up! I did something similar but went over the headliner for my rear camera wiring.

 

I was torn between the two routes but the floor felt easier. Not sure if that's actually true or not but ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

 

Question OP ( @SomethingNew71 ). I will be ordering the Rexing V1 dual dash cam myself very soon and was wondering if there's a way to easily mount the rear cam to a bracket that would extend out from behind the headliner so that the cam is centered in the center sliding window. I have tint on the back windows and I really don't want to attach anything to the tint unless it's absolutely unavoidable.

 

For the Fuse tap do the 3rd Gens use a Mini Fuse, ATO, or a Low-profile Mini fuse?

 

I am sure if you got creative you probably could figure something out. There are two hooks back there on the sides that might work? You might also be able to craft something that mounts to the headrests or the body of the truck behind the seats?

Just saw this sorry. The one linked in the original post is the right size for this. Link --> https://amzn.to/2pV9L6e

 

I ended up buying a cheap roof flange and cutting out a small piece that I fashioned into bracket that slid up behind the headliner and used 3M automotive grade double-sided tape to stick it to the roof's interior. The headliner helped to jam it there as well, but I did spray paint visible parts of the bracket flat black which sticks down about 2 inches and it's plenty strong enough to hold the rear cam. The rest of the install based should be easy enough based on the video and photos that you provided.

 

Did you wire to constant hot for 24/7 ?
Do you know the current draw for this cam ?

 

I haven't wired it yet, but the video is exactly the same one I have, so I'll tap into what he did ( washers ) and see if I have parking mode working. Regarding how much it's drawing, I don't know, but the blue amps have 15 on them.

 

Nice I would love to see a photo of the install. The offset position I stuck mine on was definitely not my first choice.

I wired it to only turn on when the car is on. I don't like the idea of something being on all the time and trickle draining my battery. No idea what the draw on the camera is.

 

Good thing about 24/7 is you can see who might hit you in a parking lot and run.

 

I bought the power magic pro dude-thingy. Keeps my camera powered until a certain voltage is hit. Then shuts it off.

 

Direct answer, Toyota installs the low profile fuses and the tool to pull them out is under the fuse box lid located under you hood on the driver's side. The fuse tap provided by Rexing is normal height or even extended height fuse, so the factory fuse cover will no longer fit. I would suspect this to also be try with any fuse tap method used on 3rd gens.

Agreed and is a valid point. I have started making it a habit to leave it on while running errands and to manually turn it off while parked at work, in the garage, or will have it left somewhere for a multiple day period.

I bought a roof flange from Home Depot since they were cheap, stiff ( but pliable ), and easy to cut with the tin snips I had. I figured out the basic size that I needed, rounded off the corners, and then started systematically bending the ad-hoc bracket into the shape I needed by constantly going back and forth checking fit and seeing if I was achieving enough "touch points" for the 3M 30lb. adhesive double-sided tape I planned on using. Once the basic shape of the bracket was done, I spray painted the exposed parts of the bracket that would be seen below the headliner and I even left a blank spot of exposed metal so that the rear dash cam would have something more solid to attach to. Make sure that you thoroughly clean the metal with soap/water/alcohol to ensure a clean grip by the rear camera mount. So far, the video is not showing any bouncing or appear to be experiencing vibrations.

Also, I didn't run my cables up/down the pillars, I just tucked them behind the weather stripping, but I did go behind the pillar panels near the top in inside the door sill covers like you did. Between the two of us, I think we have a good solution.

I hope the photos help.

 

It was really hard for me to get the panels off of the pillars between the front and rear doors on my Taco. It had some red plastic fasteners that I had to break which I assume are airbag related.

Anyone know about the red fasteners on the pillar panels close to the headliner?

 

Great write-up, took a lot of pre install anxiety away for me.