Radio shuts off when going over a bump

Haven’t had another chance to take a crack at it.

So you think connect the constant and ignition wires of the radio headunit and tap both into the trucks ignition power?

 

No, run leads straight from battery into cab go for a ride. If no problems then I'm assuming it's the power source. If this is the case us another power source, run a new positive from the battery if you have to.

 

Sounds good I will hopefully have time this week to give everything a shot

 

does your radio have a removable face-plate? if so try to just bump it and see if it goes out... unfortunately the harnesses on those removable face-plates aren't always the best and can fail with the right bump.

 

Yes it does have a removable faceplate. Weird thing was that both radio units did this and shut off at a particular bump.. I did try to hit the faceplate of the head unit in all sorts of ways to replicate the issue with it hooked up to power with no luck

 

HMM Next time you have the radio out if you would take some pictures of the harness (radio and truck end) oddly enough have you tried putting pressure on the face-plate and driving over the bump. how secured is you battery? bouncing around of the battery could cause issues sometimes as well. do you notice any other electrical issues when you hit bumps? for instance turn your dome light on next time and see if it flickers over the same bump the radio shuts off on.

 

also have you checked your fuse panel you may have corrosion on the fuse or it may be loose... if you can pull the panel out and see the wiring behind it there may be a loose wire as well.

 

I have not tried putting pressure on the faceplate when going over the bump but I did attempt to move it and jostle it when it was out to replicate it.

Battery is tight.. very tight no movement and cables are cleaned and also tight.

Will try to turn the dome light on next time, good idea as the same fuse is for both.

Changed both fuses for radio, the one inside the truck and also the one in the engine compartment main fuse holder.

Checking the wiring underneath is a good idea forsure!

 

My radio was shutting off every now and then, but it seems to have been a flaky PAC RP4.2-TY11 module. I switched to the Maestro and so far so good.

 

Don't you just love when you think you are going in for an easy fix and then it takes forever. Story of my life.

 

I thought it was the actual module also so switched it out with all the wiring in hopes it would fix it with no luck sadly.

Yea exactly. I thought it was going to be a simple loose wire behind the head unit itself or something logical... oh well

 

id have to agree with some of the other guys at this point. I would remove the headunit and power it up with some alligator clamps and shake the shit out of it. If it doesn't turn off then I'd move on to the wiring. If you know its the wiring you can basically narrow it down from there. If it is indeed turning off then there are only 3 wires you need to chase. Acc power (turns the radio on) full time power (memory n such) and the ground. Seems like you've ruled out the ground so go on either the connector that goes to the back on the head unit or its opposite end and check for continuity.

It could be a wiring shorting...or it could be youre just hard on headunits yah crazy mo fucka...

 

Maybe OP got the title of this thread wrong. Maybe it's supposed to be "Radio shuts off after awesome dune jump"...

If you have access to a two channel oscilloscope you can set it to trigger on the acc and/or the 12v to see the signal noise on the harness. I would try to hook the scope as close to the radio as possible though.

 

Im hard on the whole truck basically but ive been trying to limit it

With the factory wiring hooked up but it out of the dash I literally smacked it many times, shook it, etc and nothing happened. And it definitely wouldnt be experiencing that type of force in the truck with the suspension dampening everything etc.

So next course of action would be to hardwire it? The radio does keep its memory because it automatically connects back to my phone...unlike if I disconnect the battery then I have to go into settings and connect it the first time. Knowing that, would that mean I have one wire left that could be the culprit?


Also side note... Hows the 4x4 swap coming along?? Its been a minute since we went wheeling last

Haha..

Sometimes it needs a pretty good hit to shut it off but sometimes its just something dumb like cruising down a graded road that has some washboard in a corner and it will shut off/back on.

 

I would say that your culprit would be the 12v that is tied into your acc circuit. I would investigate that wire.
It’s going so so, kinda frustrated about it because I told my dad that I was going to do it without him and he didn’t take kindly to it. So I’m not sure what’s going on but there’s something beneath the surface. So I’m just sitting here with the parts waiting for him to “decide” he wants to install everything. I dunno man..anyways I’ve still be taking it out. Just came back from big bear and had a blast up there. I know dude it’s a bummer

 

So then if the ACC wire is the issue let’s say.. what can I tap that wire into for the radio?

 

Well the radio is tied into the dome light and something else I believe. Your head unit should have a 15 amp fuse behind it to protect it but it really depends on what you have on the circuit. Switches, lights etc. if it was me I would find the color code for the acc power going to the radio and test for continuity. I believe it runs to the kick panel and changes color there. You can find what the color change is by just lining up the pins and matching.
Remove head unit
Get basic multimeter
Test continuity from head unit connector to joint at kick panel. If it was me I would hook up some Alagator clips and go for a ride. Hit some bumps and see if ur multimeter changes. If it does. Your issue is on that run. If not do that same test where the harness connects at the kick panel. You should be able to see where the issue is from that

 

Thanks. Sent you a text to clarify also

Reply when you have time

 

You might get lucky enough to see signal noise on a DC multimeter, but a DC multimeter isn't the right tool to tell you that you that you don't have signal noise. It can only prove the positive, not the negative. You want an oscilloscope to prove the negative.