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3D Printed Gas Door Cam Lock Repair

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by BartMaster1234, Dec 23, 2016.

  1. Dec 23, 2016 at 7:57 PM
    #1
    BartMaster1234

    BartMaster1234 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    The plastic arm that keeps the gas door flush to the body used in conjunction with the cam lock broke off my taco. The plastic is super brittle and it broke over time.

    I didn't want to pay the insane $75 dollars the stealership and eBay was charging for a whole cylinder assembly, or add yet another key to my lanyard. I also wanted to use my original key.

    I followed this write-up and printed these 3D STL files off Thingverse and went to work.

    I printed it with an almost 100% infill (almost pure solid ABS plastic) (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene, not Anti-Skid Braking System, lol.) so that it's solid and sturdy and won't break again.

    Installation was simple, I did the following:
    1. Remove cam lock assembly by pulling on retaining clip
    2. Spray whole assembly and cylinder with brake cleaner to de-grease
    3. Remove old locking arm debris
    4. Sand entire assembly with 400 grit sandpaper (for aesthetics, not necessary)
    5. Roughen 3D printed washer and locking arm with sandpaper or file
    6. Add washer to 'T' post, add epoxy, and attach locking arm
    7. Let dry for 24 hours
    8. Insert assembly into gas door, and add retaining clip
    9. Lubricate pins, key-way, and retention spring with Silicone lubricant spray.
    And you're done. Assembly took less than 5 minutes and it went back on my truck the next day. It works like a dream.

    I printed an extra locking arm, so if anyone needs to fix their broken locking arm PM me.

    Here's some pictures:

    Before:

    IMG_8429.jpg

    After:
    File_005.jpg

    (I should note that I had the early style of the locking arm which was a lot skinnier than the one pictured. The one pictured is the style of locking arm used in later 1st gens. They're all intercompatible)

    Here is the style of locking arm that was originally on my gas door:

    File_000.jpg

    File_001.jpg File_003.jpg File_006.jpg File_002.jpg File_004.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 23, 2016
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    #1
  2. Oct 12, 2018 at 6:15 AM
    #2
    YotaRob03

    YotaRob03 New Member

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    Are these still available? I need one for my tundra gas door!
     
  3. Oct 12, 2018 at 6:42 AM
    #3
    Xbeaus

    Xbeaus Well-Known Member

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    @BartMaster1234 I followed this write-up and had one printed. Works like a charm! I just bought my friend a $4.50 coffee and he printed it out for me.
     
    Wulf and I married my tacoma like this.
  4. Oct 12, 2018 at 8:15 AM
    #4
    BartMaster1234

    BartMaster1234 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    You can print em yourself at any 3D Printer. I only had two made in case I messed my first attempt up.
     
  5. Oct 12, 2018 at 8:15 AM
    #5
    BartMaster1234

    BartMaster1234 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Happy to hear! Post some pics!

    Did you print it with 100% infill?
     
  6. Oct 12, 2018 at 8:16 AM
    #6
    Rocan

    Rocan Well-Known Member

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    So long as the original creator doesn't have a problem with it, I wouldn't mind 3D printing a bunch for people for relatively cheap. I personally don't have a use for it (non locking lid on my taco) but I'm all for helping out TW.
     
    I married my tacoma likes this.
  7. Oct 12, 2018 at 8:17 AM
    #7
    BartMaster1234

    BartMaster1234 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I think the person who owns the files might be a member on here. Check his profile out on Thinkverse, should have the link in the first post.
     
    Rocan[QUOTED] likes this.
  8. Oct 12, 2018 at 8:18 AM
    #8
    Rocan

    Rocan Well-Known Member

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    I have found that 100% infill does nothing more than waste plastic and drastically increase print times. In a lot of cases it can also reduce part quality. Having 3 top and bottom layers and 3 shells with 20-40% infill is more than sufficient for the majority of jobs.
     
  9. Oct 12, 2018 at 8:19 AM
    #9
    BartMaster1234

    BartMaster1234 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    You probably know way more about 3D printing than I do. I just wanted the maximum strength, even if it’s overkill.

    Two years later and it’s running strong.
     
  10. Oct 12, 2018 at 8:22 AM
    #10
    Rocan

    Rocan Well-Known Member

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    No worries, it's a very common pitfall for new 3D printer users. I did the same myself when I first started out.
     
  11. Oct 12, 2018 at 8:33 AM
    #11
    Xbeaus

    Xbeaus Well-Known Member

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    I'll get one loaded up here soon. What does 100% infill mean? I used your links and sent the 3D file to him and it was done quickly. A lot beefier than the OEM one for sure.
     
  12. Oct 12, 2018 at 8:36 AM
    #12
    BartMaster1234

    BartMaster1234 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    @Rocan can describe how they printing process works better than me. Infill is the amount of plastic “concentration” to air. 10% infill is basically a hallow shell with no structure, 100% infill is a solid piece of plastic.
     
  13. Oct 12, 2018 at 8:48 AM
    #13
    Rocan

    Rocan Well-Known Member

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    10% wouldnt be hollow, 0% would be hollow with just walls and a floor and roof of how ever many layers you told it to print. larger parts generally need higher infill percentage to have smaller spaces between plastic, smaller parts need less. There are also many different infill patterns that have different pros/cons. More advanced printing softwares (known as "slicers") do varying infill percentages.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fuGqsZjdPQM

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AmEaNAwFSfI
     
  14. Oct 12, 2018 at 3:21 PM
    #14
    Xbeaus

    Xbeaus Well-Known Member

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    Toytec coilovers. Height adjustable Bilstein's. 265/75/16 MT. TRD wheels. Rebuilt r150f. Marlin clutch kit. All kinds of new parts...
  15. Nov 1, 2021 at 9:03 PM
    #15
    FW_Taco

    FW_Taco Well-Known Member

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    Thank you so much for this guys. Just ordered the parts to be 3d printed.
     

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