Long Travel BS Thread

i didnt know that you are manual transmission

 

Yeah. I'm manual trans. Might be a different story if I had an automatic.

 

What specific TC kit do you have and what leaf pack? It kind of sounds like you’ve got a few things going wrong with your setup.

 

DMZ pack is farr better that the shitty F67s , or there is E30

 

Any of you guys ever re-programed your speedometer after gearing/tires, heard it affected Transmission shifting tendencies.

 

heh heh. yeah, Banana Hammock! Heh heh, heh. Reprogrammed it when I saw Christie Brinkley nude n stuff when I was in the pool.

@Tacomoto23

 

Funny guy lol

 

@Tacomoto23 went through that w/ gears and a recalibration unit recently so there was a point to my post haha

 

I re calibrated mine with the Hypertech speedo recalibrator. There is a sensor on the wheels that measures revolutions for the speedometer, so essentially you just need to re calibrate for your new tire size.

I didn’t know that at first so I input my new gear ratio and tire size and my speedo was really wacky.

 

My truck is also a 5 speed manual. I have been running 35s on 4.10 for a few months and it handles them decently. I haven't used 5th gear since I got them though, it runs 70 fine in 4th with them. I have read more posts about 2.7s with 4.88s not being that big of an improvement over stock than people saying that 4.88 were a good choice. I want it to be able to move off the line, and also be able to spin both tires in the mud when the differential locks. I am not concerned with highway speed, daily driving ability or fuel mileage because fuel is cheap in Texas and it is not my daily driver

 

Mileage...who dat?

 

I have a good relationship with mileage in my daily lol

 

I was thinking about living dangerously and scooping a Yaris. How much that run?

 

I paid 8000 for it from a carmax in Georgia. I came across it on eBay, I had someone look at it, paid them and paid 400 dollars to have it shipped to Texas. It had 77000 miles, the batteries are still in really good shape and it seems was really well taken care of. My mom has a prius with 200k with nothing besides maintenance. Mine had the brake actuator go out, but was covered by Toyota to a tune of 2200 dollars, and my coolant control valve went out recently that costed 500. I am at 99k, hoping to get over the 100k hump with no more issues.

 

anyone in here know about adjusting heims, because I've not had any luck getting my Icon Billets adjusted and of course firestone won't touch them.

trying to get caster around 3.5 or more to clear tires, and everything else zeroed of course.

 

normall you undo the bolt and just twist the heim in/out but those billet arms are supposedly adjustable without doing that

 

You loosen the 12pt bolts on the sides of the arms and turn the threaded adapter the helm is screwed into using a large wrench. Counter clockwise pushes the heims out, clockwise brings them in.


Also, the way icon ships them set up, should me more than enough to achieve the caster numbers you’re looking for.

A quick google search netted the instructions for install of your arms

https://www.iconvehicledynamics.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/I58550_REVC.pdf

 

I bought used, so they had been tampered with.

I know how to adjust them, just not what adjusting one side may do.

I'm not trying to get them perfect, just in a range that firestone can take care of the rest on the LCA's

Okay so If I loosen all pinch bolts and adjust the backside out what happens, if i pull it tighter what happens, if i do the same for the front I would assume the results are similar just opposite. I need to know what's changing when I do this positively or negatively with caster, camber, toe.

 

Those who know better please correct me if I’m wrong:
I would assume that when you legnthenbthe front heim or shorten the rear, you are putting negative caster into he alignment.
So shortening the front and lengthening the rear would put more positive caster into the alignment.

Adjusting uca heims might have some effect on camber, I’m not totally sure. Visualizing things in my head, if you are shortening the rear heim (increasing neg caster) that might also lower the camber number. By how much or if at all, I don’t know.
Toe in is set with the tie rods, as it’s the wheel angle realative to a wall perpendicular to the truck.

This is what my train of through was when setting my heims and a very rough alignment when I put on my LT kit.
I drove immediately to an alignment shop and had them do final adjustment.

 

correct. it achieves the same adjustment as the lower cam bolts do. it will adjust camber and caster simultaneously. if you made them equal then it would only adjust camber. towards the center of the vehicle is always negative.