Rack & Pinion Service Tools & tips

Reading through all of this I can see that this is a really good, detailed guide, but a very involved process. The issue I have on my truck is that there is a leak coming from under the dust cover. Can I simply purchase a replacement seal(s) for this, take the shaft assembly out of the gear assembly, replace the seals and reassemble? Or will I need to tear the entire rack & pinon assembly apart to do this? Or am I better off just buying a new one?

 

To replace that seal you need to take the rack completely out. You also need the special tool that the OP made from a piece of brass. I made mine by grinding edges on a box end wrench. It wasn't a fun job, if you are in 'Murcia then I'd say buy a new rack from one of the online Toyota dealers.

 

Thanks, Dirty Pool. Your ability to write and your command of the English language is remarkable. It makes me wonder what you do for your day job! Rebuilding that unit is way beyond my capability, but the information and knowledge sure helps.

 

@Dirty Pool, would a loose bearing guide nut cause fluid to fill the boots? I'm in the process of disassembling mine and once I pulled the control valve that nut just slid down. If all I need to do is tighten that instead of continuing disassembly that would be great!

Little back more info. It's a cvj reman rack with about 10k on it. I lost power steering and noticed atf leaking from the boots at a descent rate. The boots were completely full of atf when I removed them. I had assumed that a seal in the cylinder had failed but after seeing that nut completely loose I'm wondering if that was allowing fluid to bypass and overpressurize the cylinder. I'm not entirely sure how or where the control valve regulates pressure. Your incite would be much appreciated!

Pic of the nut I'm talking about.


20181015_140910 by Ryan Heintzelman - Flickr2BBcode

 

Just noticed mine was leaking from the drivers side boot today.

Do you have the newer style r&p?

 

@Reh5108
This is going to be one of those situations with no "100%" answer. In the end, putting it back together and giving it a test is going to be the only proof. Further, a pro working with someone else's money would likely say just reseal it. I would clean it, inspect it, put it back together and give it a test. Maybe talk to CVJ as it would seem to be a "workmanship issue". Not sure how they would react to "you working on it first".

Here are some things to consider.

The control valve works by taking pressure generated in one side of the rack body by mechanical steering effort and applying it to a series of check valves. These valves direct high pressure from the pump to the other side (divider piston). This assists the movement of the rack shaft in it's intended direction. I do not believe the "unscrewed" seal carrier or "bearing guide nut" would cause over pressure on the passenger side rack shaft seal. High confidence there.

The most likely scenario would be as follows, assuming I read you have fluid in both boots.
The nut came loose for what ever reason. Fluid leaked out into the driver side boot, lots of it. The control valve is entirely outboard of the driver side rack shaft seal and the entire boot/cavity gets nearly filled. At this point go back to the OP, the part about the little hole on the "flat" of the rack shaft immediately inboard of the ITR tab washer.
In a left turn the driver side boot (full of fluid) would compress forcing fluid instead of air thru the double secret "equalizing" passageway to the passenger side boot cavity, appearing as if the seal had leaked.

Keep in mind the lower end of the control valve shaft rides in a small needle bearing at the absolute lowest point of the driver side boot cavity. Just about any amount of fluid would dilute or wash away it's grease and/or allow any contaminants present to settle there. So clean/flush the bearing and add a dab of what ever is in the grease gun.

 

Yes, I have the bushing style.

Thanks for the insight. I think what you're saying makes sense. I did order a seal kit just in case I find something else. I'll finish disassembly tomorrow after work with the press and make a sst to tighten that nut.

I actually took the rack to cvj and since I didn't have my receipt there was nothing they could do. I did end up remembering where I put it but only after I had it apart. I was supposed to receive a call back last night to see if there was anything they could do but never did.

 

Dirty Pool,
Very nice and usefull write up.
When i tried to slide in the driver side seal in the rack (I’m using tooling recommended in the service manual, a press and I even have a guide on top of the rack), I noticed that the seal got damaged when crossing the pressure port. A small quantity of rubber has been shaved from the outer surface. Have you noticed that?

Thanks

 

Why was this so hard to find. None of my searching worked and I specifically used terms found in this thread title.

 

Subbed, I need to do this.

 

Actually, it's more appreciated than you could have even guessed, all those years ago. I'm certain there are so many more people than are even members of this MOST EXCELLENT SOURCE OF VALUABLE INFORMATION website that are also immensely grateful for Dirty's efforts here.... & this whole Tacoma World has Rocked mine & that of all my mechanics who have used it to do the most complicated jobs. I cant stress enough how appreciative I am for this website!

..had to say it.

 

This is an excellent tutorial!! Thank you Dirty Pool! Posting here giving this another bump incase others need it. I love the crispy sharp images and excellent details. Thanks for your generosity and sharing.

 

I have a 2004 and the cap is the Allen key style. I jacked up my front end to check ball joints etc. and I have a significant amount of slop when the steering is locked.

The assembly itself isn’t moving like you see with bad bushings. It’s both tires inner outer tire rods and the steering wheel shaft moving around.

I’m sure it’s needs a new spring but can I just add more preload without damaging anything?

I just have to go on a road trip Saturday and already have UCA bushings to do. I don’t think I’ll have time to get the rack parts in.

 

Thanks again for this writeup, @Dirty Pool . So has anyone else taken advantage of this thread and performed the rebuild? It has been up for awhile now and for such a well executed writeup it doesn't have a lot of replies. What gives?

 

I’ve got an oem rack I plan to rebuild. Haven’t had the time to do it yet though.

 

I just rebuilt mine this past weekend. It was leaking from the top of the control valve and the outer seals. This write-up was incredibly helpful, and I’d definitely do it again. I was a bit discouraged at first, but in the end, I’m glad I tackled it myself. It only cost me $70, compared to $700 for a new rack.

 

Awesome write up, but makes me want to do a solid axle swap even more.

 

Dirty pool

What would you charge for rebuilding our OEM rack and pinion??

 

Does the Rack guid/Adjuster cap contain any liquid/oil in it? Mine has some sort of liquid seeping out of it but it looks like it’s been dried up. I don’t think it’s getting any worse but here’s the pic.

 

Looks like at one time something dripped out. Maybe the cap was removed and then replaced?? It's a very old cab and Toyota replaced it with one that has an external bolt head instead of an internal one. And I believe ('cause I've never checked it out myself) that the cap is sealed with in O-ring.

It's hard to say from your photos what the source of the oil was. You could wipe the area off and then check it after driving around 10-15 miles. If it's still dry, recheck it after a few weeks.