Advice on Shop Findings

Since you have a PreRunner look for 4wd suspension (everything excepts the front diff/axles)

and it's spindle, not knuckle, my bad. was thinking of something else haha

 

Yeah, their catalog descriptions are misleading. The ones they list as RWD are for the 5-lug PU, 4WD and PreRunner use the same. They do have some inexpensive ones under Economy that should be fine, it's not a complicated part. Still need to get upper ball joints and have them pressed into the spindle.

 

If you get cheap bushings with too much play in them, your front wheels will do the splits on braking like mine did.

Like in this nifty illustration of mine...

 

Maybe, but tie rods aren't necessarily part of the steering rack. If you have the bill, maybe you can check to see if they included them. You can jack up a wheel and grasp it at 9 and 3 o'clock and try to wiggle it (push on one side, pull the other). If it's all tight, it may be ok, but you've got a lot of other stuff that may be loose right now.

My thinking is that if you have it apart and have to do an alignment anyway, might as well do them since they are cheap. It would suck to have all that nice new suspension stuff and clunky steering, and it won't do your tires any favors.

 

Okay, I took my truck over to Yota Pros (Recommended in the Arizona forum). So far my experience with them has been great! Took it in for their standard service and they found stuff the other shop missed. Just asked them to do a full inspection so I can see where I stand. This is kind of a long update.

Here's what the found:

• My valve cover gaskets are wet/leaking, looks like it'll be $579 to get those replaced (parts and labor).

• Coolant leak on the back of the engine block in a pretty terrible spot. They pressure tested the coolant system and found a freeze plug back there leaking. They recommend dropping the transmission to get to it. I really hate those damned things. Really considering pulling the engine just to get them all.

• My steering rack bushings are worn, which isn't shocking because the bushings in my upper and lower control arms are shot. They have a bushing kit for $79 and would need about an hour to get those installed, so $179 total.

• The carrier bearing is going bad, but said it has some life left in it. There aren't any drive line vibrations, just some squeaking when I'm in reverse.

• About time for the timing belt and water pump. Looking at $969 parts and labor. He said that includes the timing belt, water pump, 3 drive belts, tensioner, bearing, idler bearing, and a coolant service. He mentioned he's using an "A-sin" kit. I've seen people do this on their own in the forum, I may look into that.

• The intermediate steering shaft is binding a lot. They recommend replacing it for $695 parts and labor. The part from toyota is around $500ish and they suspect it will take two hours to get it replaced. I may pull the trigger on this today just to be done with it.

• He recommended reusing the control arms I have instead of buying after market ones. They weren't too worried about that hole in the arm, but said they would be able to inspect it better when it's off the truck. They also recommended buying original toyota bushings. Looking at $1,100 ish for the top arms and $1,600 for the lower arms and ball joints. I think I'll do this on my own though because that's still a ton of money.

• Lastly, he said my shocks aren't blown! But, they're still pretty worn after 60-80k miles. Probably still worth replacing since I have to pull the old suspension off anyway.

And that's been my day so far. Does anything stand out to you guys? I think I'll continue doing what I've done so far; do as much of the work on my own as I can. I did ask them to do a full inspection so I can get an idea of anything else that might need to be replaced.

 

Shop called back. They ran a test on the cylinders and they suspect there’s a problem with the head gasket. Am I boned?

 

YOU DO NOT NEED TO REPLACE YOUR CONTROL ARMS.

That is a sign of a laze shop. All you need are new bushings.

 

the SPC's will be good for your small amount of lift. No crazy uniballs to deal with, but they will allow you to get your alignment right.

 

Asin is a good brand. That's a good shop recommending a water pump while doing the timing belt. most of that cost is the labor to get in there, you don't want to have to pay twice.

buy original Toyota whenever you can. I don't know if you already mentioned it, but i would replace the lower ball joints asap. With the condition of your other suspension components, i would be very worried about them.

 

is that a spacer between your LBJ and the spindle? edit; nvm, must be some kind of dust shield or boot guard. those are not OE lower ball joints, meaning they may have already been replaced.

mine for reference, replaced ~10k miles ago with genuine Toyota;

 

Yep, that's a rubber dust shield. It's not part of the BJ either, it just bolts on using the same 4 bolts. I kept them when I got new BJs (twice).

 

yeah the rubber shields might be area specific? or if someone already replaced the LBJs might have discarded them by mistake. I kept mine, they are held on by 2 of the bolts.

 

$2700 to replace the UCA/LCA? shit, you can buy new ones for less than 1/3 that and put them on yourself.

Some of those things are OK but others they are lining their pockets making you think they have a plan.

 

I'd say most of the prices are right in line with what a few well-regarded shops here quoted me for some similar work. I'm just trying to do it all myself and learning a lot about the truck along the way, but it's not a DD for me so I have the luxury of time.

 

This is how I look at it. I figure I'll do the front end work on my own and cut the BS. The bombshell today is that I'm having head gasket problems. They recommended I buy a new engine. I don't totally understand why, but I'll be asking questions when I pick up the truck tomorrow morning.

Does a bad head gasket automatically mean bad news? Seems like a lot of people end up replacing the engine. Shop says cylinder 2 has a 60% leak down failure and cylinder 4 has an 80% leak down.

 

No shit.

 

For those prices u should bring it to my place. Just rebuild a complete front end on a 04 gp for 500. Did my 93 ti.ing belt 175. Most on the list is easy stuff.

 

Yeah, it looks like he's just a stone's throw from ya

 

ey 3 yrs ago restored a 84 pickup to look exactly like back to the futures pickuo for a dealership in riverside ca.helped that i know the manager, n i used to work there.

 

Did they say how much a new engine would be? On the engine, you are already at $1500+ whatever the freeze plug replacement costs + head gasket replacement, lots of labor there. With all that adding up, I would tend to agree that a new engine may be the better way to go. Maybe call JIS Engines in the Dallas area and see what a long block runs. I got a 20R from them that has been solid.