6MT in 3rd Gen. MTF Choices

Absolutely, especially when accelerating from a stop and backing up. As you know, we can go like 100 mph in reverse lol. I think I had closer to 6K than 5K on the truck, taking into account two full size guys and load in the bed.
If I were going to pull this type of load often there would be a full size and an automatic in my future.
But, in "slipping clutch" condition, yes, the current OEM clutch setup is ideal.

 

That’s what I’ve been learning. Fast but light shifts for the first 3 gears. I also don’t quite push the clutch in all the way.

 

If you can drive this truck to the point where you're almost in range of floating the gears, it shifts great.

I basically lightly 2 finger slap forward or back and it goes right into gear. I love this truck.

My second gen had gear identity crisis on a few occasions

 

I’ve put 3k miles on and it’s definitely getting smoother. 2 to 1 is easily the roughest shift I have.

 

I'll only do a downshift to 1st when the digital tach reads 3-4mph. You can try it, from 2nd second go into neutral and brake until you are about to reach 3mph and then clutch in and shift to 1st. It will slide right Into 1st gear very often at this speed or it will atleast not rumble in your hands like it does sometimes. Any faster or slower and the shifter shakes or the synchros take forever to match the speeds.

 

Make sure you are pushing that clutch at least 3/4 to be safe. The clutch system has an accumulator that can change the clutch engagement and disengagement action and be the difference between a smooth shift or a rough/notchy shift.

 

Not true. Friction modifier is important to have the proper amount of slipperiness. MT oil can't be to slippery or else the Synchros will keep slipping, make a slot of noise and have a harder time matching the speeds of the input and output shafts. A good friction modifier will allow the synchros to grab the gears quickly and easily.

 

@DTaco18 I've got a nice heavy shift knob for sale that will take away that notchiness...

Honestly though, I've got three knobs now. Stock, one that's 800g and one thats 130g (about 70g less than stock). The lighter one feels more notchy than stock and the heavy one just feels smooooooth and easy, almost effortless at times.

 

Sandpaper is a "friction modifier." Graphite is a friction modifier. Anything that changes the coefficient of friction is a friction modifier lol.

 

...self moderating here. Set everyone up for a layup joke here. Hahaha.

 

Yeah I know. He's not fooling me.

 

Ok, what's your point.

 

That words like "friction modifier" are just marketing. Just by creating a lubricant you created a friction modifier. If you change or modified that formulary, then you created a different lubricant.

 

It's all about the lube and CH's....

 

Because 1 ch one way or another, boom, friction is all out of wack.

 

The only time I have ever used Friction Modifier is in my car, the Service Manual calls for a small bottle of it in the rear diff.

 

Yea thanks I do push it in about 3/4. Haven’t felt a rough shift yet while doing it. I learned about the accumulator recently and knowing what it does has helped me learn better. Now I just need to get used to the clutch feel when it’s really cold. Feels like molasses!

 

I think we need to add a candle...

 

Seriously, some of these guys should be working with Sommerfeld's Number before posting about this topic lol.

 

Except you actually have a base stock oil and then you have the additives like detergents/dispersants, anti-wear additives like ZDDP, rust inhibitors, and of course viscosity index improvers which modify the friction created by your base oil.