TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Supporting mods for the actual mods. Lol.

 

And supporting mods for the supporting mods.

 

How many miles do these s/c go before rebuilding?

 

100k....per spec but may want to do it sooner if your though on it. Swapping to a much smaller pulley I’d say would warrant a sooner rebuild.

 

I think around 100000? I think it varies quite a bit. One guy I know has put 110000 on his and it's in better shape than mine. But he has a lot of highway driving (fewer supercharger rotations) and no mods of any kind. I plan on getting mine rebuilt in 2020, or possibly next year, depending on how it's performing.

 

I have seen an M90 with as much as 276K with nothing wrong with it but a leaking bypass valve. They are good to go the distance.

 

Well, that's good news as I've tatered the shaft end getting the quick change hub on.

 

This is what I was thinking! The problem is you have to take it apart prior to welding or the heat may have an adverse effect on the tensioner spring.

 

Mine broke in this spot.

Bought mine in 2011

 

Doesn't look like much room to add in good reinforcement. And welding cast aluminum sucks. So much bad shit floating around in it

 

Interesting! When did this break occur?

 

During my engine swap. Shredded the drive belt for the engine and when I went to change it, I was removing the sc belt first and it wasn’t budging and then it snapped.

I was turning in correct direction. Dunno why it wouldn’t relieve tension unless it seized or something. Either way, it broke while removing the belt

 

You were turning it in a clockwise fashion? If you were it is likely the internal spring froze on the auto tensioner so better it happened during the swap than during operation but it sounds like it was an isolated incident unlike the other failures we have been seeing.

 

It also snapped close to the tensioner instead of close to the spring, which makes sense with a snap while actuating the tensioner with a ratchet/breaker bar - near the spring is where the greatest torque is on the arm when in operation, but during belt removal the torque is greatest near the tensioner.

 

I know I was turning it the correct way. Not sure which was it was since I don’t remember. This happened nov/dec of 2013. So been a while.

I’m sure it’s a one off thing.

 

Here's another thought on the tensioner. If the restrictor jet is removed and the bypass valve is slamming open and closed, I wonder how much this abrupt action may be affecting belt tension, especially when we are creating less tolerance by running smaller belts/pulleys. Is it creating more momemtary flex in the belt causing the tensioner to hit the stop? Just a thought.

I removed the jet prior to installing my blower but have been meaning to re-install it.

 

I second that.

 

I don't think it would put a huge strain on the belt. If it did, wouldn't belts be snapping and failing all the time?

 

Possibly. I was agreeing that I need to put my restrictor back in.

 

Fair enough. If it makes your truck the way you want it then no problem.