TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Just learning as I go.

 

I went to take my restrictor out, but it wasn't there... not sure how that happened.

 

Speaking of learning. Why does my temp gauge read 180 when I have a 170* stat? Just hooked up a switch to my temp gauge so I can see either s/c water temp or coolant.

 

Might be stuck in the line?

 

Possibly. I checked hardcore for it though. Eh, it runs good so doesn't matter either way.

 

Not sure, just throwing it out there. Maybe the belt is stronger than the tensioner arm.

 

Don't know what to say. I still have the stock t-stat.

 

Yes, the material indeed could be that bad.

 

That theory is very farfetched, but no it wont affect tensioner action like that.

Here is an interesting tidbit. GM M90's from the factory have no restrictor jet in place on the boost bypass valve. I know this because I was just looking at one not too long ago. The bypass valve slams open and closed depending on throttle action. This valve and the blower lasted the same 276K I previously spoke of and is still going very strong. (The blower, the valve recently gave up)

Take it for what it is worth.

 

this is one of my thoughts as well. Especially if it means theres no need to fuss with the spring/mechanism. I'll order another tensioner to play with it.. Let me know if you can separate the 2.. I would much rather just make a replacement arm.

that was mine. first was original one with the blower.. second one had to of been a new version as it was recent.

I will check to see if I can find info on where mine were manufactured.. but regardless, I think its just the process and added stress.

 

Can you explain how the theory is farfetched? My assumption is there are different forces on the belt when when instantaneously boosting compared to the blower bleeding off air. It may be marginal, but could be one of number of contributing factors to the problem.

I'd be interesting to mount a camera and see how much the belt and tensioner are moving during boost on/off.

 

You know, I wonder how difficult it would be to implement a mod to Roostfactors mod and have the pulley wrap mod be dual sided so it wraps on top and on the bottom.

 

If it is one of the contributors to the problem I'd probably say that if the tensioner did snap, that a smaller pulley, along with a tighter belt was in play, possibly the shave stop mod has not been done.

Until we get to the bottom of why the tensioners have been giving up ghost it's all speculation really. I'm actually going to pull the restrictor back out when I get home and give the truck another whirl. I did like the instant boost/response it had when I had it out. I'll let you know how it goes. If my tensioner breaks then you could be the one to say I told you so.

 

What adhesive did you use to put your jet back in?

 

I didn't. I just jammed it back in there. It holds in there with pressure apparently.

 

I jokingly suggested such a thing the other day.

 

I put a jet back into mine and can’t tell a difference with it in vs when it was out.

Last time I met up with @Roostfactor my jet was still out. We compared the bypass valve movement between his with the jet installed vs mine without a jet. The valve doesn’t really move much slower with the jet vs without.

Based on seeing that I don’t see how removing the jet makes much difference.

 

Did you use any epoxy or adhesive when you put it back in

 

So there is no slamming of the bypass without the jet?

 

The jet wedges into the port. It’s pretty snug, I don’t see any reason glue would be necessary. At least on mine.

Without the jet it will slam open and closed. With the jet it slows it down but not too much. It’s not as big of a slow down as I think everyone is imagining.