MT Accumulator Delete Mod (ADM) and BS Thread

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I checked out your other pictures again. I see now you used a new length with the coupler. I thought you had re-bent the stock lower line.

Do you remember what the starting length was on the piece you used?

Edit: forgot to quote you so my post has a point of reference.

 

I do not, maybe 8 inches.?

 

I re-bent the stock line (7th pic in the OP) to fit the shorter length of the brake line elbow. It wasn't too bad, but I'd definitely opt for a proper sized piece of line with a clamp to support it where the accumulator was or a machined piece the same size as the accumulator like @7r41lbr34k3r is going to make.

 

ok, based on that length, I found a couple of hoses. Finding male to female braided line was a little easier.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-63080913erl/overview/
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-63080909erl/overview/
I know hard line and an adapter is cheaper, but I have a terrible track record with trying to custom bend brake line.

 

Nice! Those prices are not bad honestly!

I am sorry, but I do not know the total length from the upper connection to the port on the slave. I do know the accumulator is 30mm tall and 40mm long (2.75in / 70mm total assuming a hard 90deg angle). Given that and @TD90S 's the pic, 8in feels right? But, you do need to make a pretty tight turn to hit the port on the slave.

 

I did a check on the braided line specifications.

With a minimum bend radius of 2.25", and assuming the advertised length is free length between the connections, 9" hose is about 5/16" too short to make the 180 toward the front and then 90 back up.

I think I am going to place my order for the 13" length and try to route it to avoid trapping any air bubbles.

 

Ok I think we may be overthinking this.
I can shine a light into both holes where the lines go in/out and see no restriction. On top of that my accumulator does not have a plug in the casting. Therefore there is not a internal restriction, check ball spring or anything else I can see.
IMO it is a over engineered simple restriction. The two holes inside the black o ring are covered by the metal disc and this is restricting the flow.
There is a possibility the disc can move some away from the holes but I’m not positive on that.
My point is, one could say use a dremel and join the two holes with a shallow path and remove the restriction. Put it all back together no parts needed other than brake fluid.

 

No names. But does the company rhyme with general electric ....

 

Yeah. That's is going to be close to five full inches of diameter to make that final turn. ( (Pi x D) / 2 = 7in) just for that alone. 13in might be just right?

 

I am not sure about that. I did not cut mine up since I wanted Rick to see the whole part, but I am guessing that the inner disk is either swaged / pressed into place or it is a freeze plug? The delayed pulses that I could feel in the clutch esp when modulating it on downshifts felt like a restriction combined with a ball / spring since it was not a constant rate? I could be wrong, but the shape of the other side also has me guessing that there is more to it.

If it was just a restriction, other MFGs use something like a venturi to reduce the diameter of the line to reduce flow.

 

A trick I use with motorcycles brakes.
Air likes to travel up, not down.
Empty the fluid reservoir. Get a oil squirt can the kind with a trigger, fill with fluid and add a clear hose to the can outlet. Connect to a open bleeder push the fluid up. Works every time. It is a little tricky to get the air out of hose on the oil can, think of a doctor using a syringe.

 

Does yours have a plug somewhere in the casting other than the metal disc in the rear. Mine does not.

 

That is what I am saying. I couldn't see a joint on the side that you are talking about, but some swaged joints are that good. Like I said, I could be wrong, but I believe there is more to it than meets the eye?

Maybe @7r41lbr34k3r can post up some thoughts or pics if he cut mine up?

 

I'm curious to hear the results of that investigation also.
If it's possible to just mill out a channel connecting the two ports, It might be something a guy could do on an exchange program.
The buyer pays for the mod'ed unit plus a core charge. They mount the reworked valve when it arrives, sends back his or her original. Buyer gets their core charge back and the cycle repeats.

 

Didn't cut it up, but unless I am missing some parts I really wonder how this thing doesn't leak.

There is a split ring in there that seems to act only as a spacer. Then you have the gasket just floating in there, and I'm assuming under pressure it just seals up?



But yeah, just drilling it out to connect the ports should work. Fluid would still go into the disc, but it would just equalize and take the path of least resistance.

I fear that custom tool I need to email about is going to cost too much for this to make sense (making from scratch). I could make a custom trepan tool and do it on a lathe in a 4 jaw chuck, but I don't feel comfortable doing that as I haven't seen any tolerances or specs for the fitting online.

 

Good idea. There might be the potential to mill out the moving parts (if present) from the stock item also?

 

Yes! I had the same thoughts. That split rind goes on the outside of the disk and applies a bit of pressure to the seal through the mounting plate. It is a W. I. E. R. D!! design, in my useless opinion.

The last pic in the OP shows how it is coming off of the mounting plate.

I never want to see that thing again, so feel free to experiment or blow it the fuck up!

You can also use it as the first core for someone else?

 

Oh okay, that makes more sense to me then.

Only issue I see with modification, is getting the metal chips out afterward. We have no idea what kind of pockets are in there to trap debris, but I suppose I could try to get those inverted flare/inserts out of there to see if that is even feasible.

 

Sorry for the confusion. I reused the mounting plate for the elbow to attach to since I didn't have any good P clamps.

You could counterbore the entire area inside the lip that supports seal? That should give access to everything that is away from the connections?

 

For that I would only be able to machine where there is casting to support going deeper (behind the T shape of the casting, if you will). If I can't get those inserts out to take measurements from, I'd have to do some exploratory surgery to find out how far I can whittle away without disturbing them.

While it is doable, the risk of jarring something loose, or even thinning out a wall too much might just not be worth it. Probably safer to get some OCD and tweezer the chips out.