TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Well wrap will take a lot more work than tight will. I want to try tight first and then report back. I do have a wrap solution in the works, but we'll see how this all fares out.

 

Urd headers are a pita to install.

 

Yes. Vibrant cats, a little tubing, and v-bands to a modified URD y-pipe.

 

The installer has to be carefull lining the cats up correctly or you will have issues with the rest of the exhaust as @Murphinator has first hand experience with this.

 

Thank you gents.

I’m wondering if I can do the welding myself. . .?

I figure I’ll be way more attentive to detail, unless this is a simple thing for exhaust shops to do????

 

Depends on how comfortable you are installing/removing header. Just make sure you make some sort of jig, and that you will be able to mount your transmission to header brackets back on. My driver side doesn’t line up so it has caused me some grief.

 

Good thinking. Does that problem cause a performance issue or is it a “not how it’s supposed to be” issue. Both are bad, but one is a slightly easier pull to swallow

 

No performance issue, just annoying things like your catback rattling on the driveshaft support bearing crossmember, slowly driving you insane.

No joke at one point it made me want to just sell my truck. Well that and some other things, but it was the icing on top basically.

 

Man I can totally understand that. I assume a shop did the work?

 

Yep. Same shop did a set before mine with no issues. I guess the studs in my truck gave them problems so the dude was fustrated with my truck. When I learned that support bar was missing, it was too late to do anything. I called him and he basically said he could fix it if I paid him the full price again. No thanks

 

Where did you order your tensioner from?

 

mustangsunlimited.com

 

Nope, as long as your cats are healthy to begin with I suppose.
My shorties we're thrown on at about 70k miles and lasted less than 20K before I had the p0420/430 codes.

 

My mechanic did the work and took a bunch of time with mandrel bent tubing to get the bends just right and keep the flow unrestricted. I'm ignoring how much I spent on that... Onward!

 

What we did on my ex-girlfriend 's truck.
Very handy.

Yup. Better have straight cuts, and keen alignment.

 

There is a problem. The UPR tensioner is not currently in production and is on an indefinite hold until further notice. This came straight from someone at UPR today. Cancel your order if possible. I ended up going for a used Thump unit. Looks like the expensive units may be the only go until further notice.

 

I think I need to address my driveshaft. Its suddenly started vibrating. Is the hot ticket still the OE style shaft with the rear section flipped around and a double cardan after the carrier bearing? Or a Tom Woods one piece? @Torspd do you have any leads on a good driveline place in our area?

 

yea, for sure. Sucks they couldnt replicate the work on yours!

damn, i THINK my cats are ok...I trip the P0136/0138 and P0156/0158 code ever so often...but I think my rear O2 sensors are starting to shit the bed...unless anyone here can tell me how those codes can be the cat's and not the O2 sensors.

I also may just get new high flow cats like others did and just suck down that cost so I'm not doing it twice

 

In other news, the 2.3 pulley in conjunction with the restrictor jet removal and the bypass valve adjustment to full close did the ticket. I re-removed the bypass valve restrictor jet and I run wayy less rich way more often during partial throttle instances as weird as it sounds. Everything just feels so much better without the jet in place now for my setup. I had a little knocking going on at part throttle with the jet installed. After removal that issue is gone now as well.

 

So what exactly was adjusted to the bypass valve? So do our bypass butterfly valves ever close all the way?