TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

You want it to close as much as possible without binding. The factory adjustment usually leaves a little room to adjust to the "closed" position.
This allows for less boost leakage back to the inlet.

 

No they do not unless you adjust them, so in all actuality when you are in boost you are actually allowing some to bleed past the bypass valve. By fully adjusting it to close you will actually pick up a few points leaner in your AFR.

There is a small Allen head bolt which the valve stops on when you are in boost. You have to adjust it out until you can hear a slight tink from the valve hitting the blower casing. Too much adjustment out and the butterfly will bind and eventually wear out the blade.

 

The adjustment is the small allen head facing up here with locktite on it. It normally faces down.
You can turn it counterclockwise while quickly letting the actuator snap shut to check for binding.
Once you feel the butterfly just start to bind in the closed position, adjust clockwise just until the binding goes away.
That is as close to sealed the bypass will be without binding.

 

That is a total suckpocalypse.

I think I will give the Steeda one a try. Since I removed the stock radiator and shroud, it will fit no problem. I can't tell exactly if it has a stiffer spring than stock, though.

Did the UPR guy say it was discontinued due to some design flaw? Like even if mustangsunlimited has one they can send, should I still get something else?

 

I’ve never solved this problem. Not sure it’s always the driveshaft.

 

There’s an adjustment...mind blown. How do you reach it?

 

Funny enough that is exactly where my Allen stop ended up without allowing the butterfly to bind. Dead on where yours is. Things have been so much better with it just about fully sealed now.

I got lucky and found a used Thump for sale, which I picked up very quickly for obvious reasons. The UPR rep did not know any info as to why they have stopped making it until indefinite at this moment, but you will have trouble finding a store which has one readily available. No one one has a UPR on hand ready to ship. You may have to settle for one of those $400+ tensioners. As stupid as it sounds, lol. There is a company called ARS which makes an absolutely gorgeous billet unit of it but it costs bank as well.

The alternative is Roush. The only downside is you will have those big words on the tensioner itself, and we are not Roush, so.. grinder to remove the letters it is.

With really small fingers and a king fu ninja grip of death on the Allen key.

 

No comment on Steeda? The price is right for us Canadians who are still waiting for the US economy to implode and the exchange rate to improve.

 

If you want stronger than stock Steeda is the way to go, as it has a billet reinforcement piece welded onto it, at the end of the day however it is mostly still cast aluminum, it is no stronger in any other way than stock other than that and will offer nothing over what we currently have. Roush may be the best way to go because I am under the impression that they internally rehaul the spring as well with a more HD unit. I am not saying Steeda is bad, as it is the most readily available option and as of current the best bang for buck over the rest of them, but the Roush is a completely retailed unit, though still completely cast aluminum. Much beefier than stock, however.

 

Sounds good, I appreciate you doing the research on this for me. I'm sure a sticker will do just fine to cover up the Roush lettering.

 

Dremel or grinder to the letters. To remove them. Abrasive wheel across the entire surface of the tensioner front to shine it all up and remove all the ugly left over from the grinding.

For max bling and bragging rights factor, Thump or ARS. Have you some deep pockets ready, however, but at least they are available.

 

I have just heard about this adjustment as well. I imagine the faster your rotors are going (more boost), the more difference it would make. I'll be changing the supercharger needle bearings soon, so I'll have to do this adjustment when the manifold is off.

 

I did it with the blower on, but it was incredibly tough to adjust like that with such limited space available.

 

Hahahahaha!!!!!

When your professional trade description is the label technician, you find a way where there is a will.

 

I'd be interested to know this as well just in case.

 

What I don’t get is for some of this condition starts over time. Something gets worn, settles, etc.

 

Are you sure about that... because if the air is bleeding past the valve, it’s already been metered by the MAF, so AFR won’t be affected, just the overall flow rate into the manifold.

 

Oh wait. Open loop. Right.

 

Yep. I picked up I believe it was .3 lean points above what I was at on WOT runs for overall AFR after I adjusted it.

On that note vroom vroom this morning. I'm never putting my jet back in even for testing purposes. I forgot how much more stable and responsive things are without it!