TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

You can physically feel the valve bind when you have went to far. Back it out just a hair and you'll hear the tink. Good to go. Call it a day and it's all done and sealing better.

 

I'm super excited to try this out!

 

Might be something to look into when changing plugs...

 

I just got off the phone with Tom Woods. My one piece will be here early next week. Not planning to regear so according to @ItalynStylion the one piece should be the ticket. I'll have to cut the cross member, but I'll save the part I cut off in case I need to weld it back on later.

 

Any info on what the problem is if you regear? I know someone mentioned that it will be spinning too fast, but what kind of damage can that cause?

 

How does regearing change anything with what type of driveshaft you have?

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/single-piece-driveshaft-vibes-be-gone.475797/

Basically when you regear the shaft has to spin a lot faster at which point it reaches its "critical speed". He talks about it in the thread above.

 

But how is that any different than for a two piece driveshaft like oem? I'm regeared with the oem shaft and have been fine for years.

 

The stock 2 piece has a much higher critical speed than a single piece.

 

Thanks for the info Dwayne! Makes much more sense

 

X2

A 2 piece driveshaft will always have a higher maximum speed in comparison to a one piece DS.

For those who own DCLB's I would highly advise against a one piece.

 

Just seems strange to me I guess. I would think having more joints/ angles to deal with would be worse at higher rotating speeds. More chances for things to be unbalanced/ bind up. But then you also have smaller individual sections that need balancing which would be easier than one big piece that would be harder to evenly balance perfectly.

Anyways while on the topic. I recently changed my carrier bearing to a timken one. Kinda a mix between the oem and the full hard mount eids one as it is encased in a mostly solid hard rubber giving it minimal slop. I am happy with it so far. No vibes and it feels much more solid. I didn't think I would feel a difference, but getting rid of all the slop in the oem cb is noticeable. But boy have I drug my driveshaft across some shit. I'm almost scared that there's minimal slop because I'm sure the slop from oem allowed the ds to just deflect itself out of the way instead of being solid and bending.

 

Long bed might be able to pull off a one piece if the diameter is increased.

But I'm all for a 2 piece, though. The plan is to use the Tom Woods and have the stock one modded like this:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...om-double-cardan-driveshaft-installed.560063/

 

The above assertions are correct. To give you a mental image, you have a long shaft (might as well get your giggles out now) that is strong enough to support its own weight. However, it does flex to an extent. The longer it is, the more flex you will get. Kinda like how a ruler appears to have no flex but a yard stick kinda flaps around if you move it quickly. At some point, a single piece shaft will start acting like a jump rope and that point is defined as its critical speed. This is where harmonics start to take hold and the shaft will literally tear itself apart as it spins faster and faster.

But if you can imagine cutting the length of that shaft in half by adding a support bearing, it can't move around in the middle and effectively makes it two smaller shafts. A shaft like that can spin much faster.

How does that relate to regearing? Well the point of a regear is to have the drive shaft spin faster per revolution of the wheel. With an aggressive regear, you'll have the shaft spinning quite quickly and if you're using a single piece shaft, that could be quicker than its critical speed.

 

Confirmed from Magnuson themselves, the Tacoma supercharger tensioner uses a 3.0" idler pulley. Translates to 76mm. We can and will be able to use the HD double bearing pulley that is an optional (or sometimes standard) add on for some of these billet tensioners.

 

Good explanation. I was hoping you'd chime in, since you've been through this at great length already.

 

If you get a double cardan joint added to the driveshaft, if the ujoints ever go out on that, do you have to take the ds to a shop to have them replaced, or can you drop it and do it yourself like with the stock shaft?

I feel like i remember reading somewhere that you cant change them yourself with the double cardan

 

If we can talk seats in here, then driveshafts are fair game

 

You have done a great deal of research and have proven already that running a one piece over a two piece the longer it gets is just a bad idea waiting to tear apart. (Quite literally)I have never been on board with an overly long one piece driveshaft, especially for a truck because of the potential harmonic/ vibration issues that presented themselves if the angles were off even just a bit, but your research over the past few years only further solidified my original theory as to why I wasn't on board with that ideal.

 

It's just pouring rain in Dallas at the moment. Not a good boost day.