JBA Offroad Upper Control Arms And Suspension MEGA Thread BS thread

finding some of the essential parts for a decent og tundy build is hard af

 

Man that long bolt was a painful experience. Below you can see the mess I made trying to get the passenger one out. I ended up cutting some of the sheet metal off to get better grip for bending it. Then finally had to use a hammer and punch to get it out. Getting it back in I used a socket on the bolt with an extension along with a breaker bar to use as a lever.
The inner skinny washers were a huge pain too until I used a crowbar with a thick rubber washer duct-taped to the end (so as not to damage the UCA finish).

 

I don’t think I ever actually shared these, but these two tools help immensely with install. Vise grip is obvious (to bend metal) but the punch really helps get the bolt it in and out easier.

IRWIN VISE-GRIP Original Locking...

$17 IRWIN VISE-GRIP Original Locking Sheet Metal Tool, 8", 23

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000TFGFU?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

TEKTON 66176 7/32-Inch Alignment...

$10 TEKTON 7/32" Alignment Punch | 66176 | Made in USA

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QV2JUCA?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

 

This ^^^ FTW!!!

 

I just used a big 'ol set of channel locks to bend the sheet metal and a screw driver to push the bolt out. Was actually pretty straight forward. Worst part was getting those washers in.

 

Is there a flat washer that goes on each bushing end. So 4 total per arm? In your pic it looks like there is only one where the bolt is going in but not one on the other side.

 

On the stock UCA there's only one washer on each side, but on the JBA there's a thick outer washer and a thin inner one on each side. There's no way to mistake them because unless you have a hydraulic extender, you're not getting the thicker one in on the inside. The thin one didn't really fit either, but it's thin so I was able to use a crowbar to barely get it in.

Here you can see the inner and outer washers on the JBA UCA:

 

Yeah I used 12" channel locks but the passenger side was just too much interference and the sheet metal has another flap on the side of the engine compartment that was higher up that the channel lock, as big as it was, couldn't reach until I cut the sheet metal. I took about 1/2" off in the area, not too much.

 

What's the old saying......... It takes a village to raise a idiot? LOL, No, that's not the right quote! LOL

Here:

"Every successful individual knows that his or her achievement depends on a community of persons working together."
Paul Ryan

One of the things that has helped me so much along my journey is the community here. We are all part of the whole!

 

Yea a lot of shit can happen in 4 years Joe, that's for sure.

I'm just glad to be a part of it!

 

You guys think 17x8.5 with 4.30 back spacing. Will fit with 285/75/r17 and/or 315/70r17? With a 3” lift?

 

The 285s, yes and the 315s will be close (talking about UCA clearance).

 

Hmm.. decisions, decisions..

Well the 285s are 34” and the 315s aren’t a true 35” so I may just stick to the 34s. 35s are beginning to become a pain on this truck.

 

The 34s are a good size. I was looking into them but they were freaking ‘spensive. I ended up buying 295/70r17 which are 33.5” tall so close enough for me. And relatively trouble free.

 

What prices were you getting? This doesn’t seem too bad for 34s

https://www.tirebuyer.com/tires/fal...467&siteID=rX9FFwVJ6a0-gB5xtiPKWkS9knrV6FzCGw

 

I wanted something a lot more aggressive so I was looking at the st maxx since I knew I liked the tire. Ended up getting cooper mtp since they were like 220, so 250 cheaper since I was buying 5.

 

Rub like a motherfucker with stock wheels and most aftermarket wheels. I've tried 4 sets now and 2/4 were within their advertised specs. Had to get smaller washers so the UCAs fit due to the sleeve length with bushings. 2.1* caster with - 0.2* camber and still have rubbing on uca and cab mount. Purchased icon uniballs UCAs and was finally able to achieve a driveable truck(-1* camber and 3.5* caster unlike jba) . Unhappy with my purchase would be an understatement. Do not purchase these with the intention of maintaining any sort of drivability i purchased new eccentric bolts and spc UCAs to correct issues and Spc neglected to return any calls in this time frame. Glad everyone else had good experiences with his customer service, at least I got my praise Jesus DVD

 

Pics to prove this? What size tires? Sounds like your alignment tech wasn't too sure what he was doing if he only got 2.1* of caster. Im at 3'' of lift up front and I was able to get 3.4* on both sides with 0.1* of camber.

Per JBA's website, "Please Note: 285/75R16 (32.8" x 11") and 255/85R16 (33.1" x 10.0") and larger diameter tires need aftermarket wheels with less then factory wheel back space."

If you're running anything larger than stock tire size they say you need different wheels with less backspacing. If you bought wheels within their specs or beyond them I don't see how it is possible that you rub.

Per Icons website, " 17" or larger wheels with max 4.75" back space" if you have aftermarket tires or wheels.

Basically same specs as JBA so not too sure how the Icons are working for you but the JBA's didn't.

 

Also no mention to tire size or which wheel/tire combo was used.

 

My 295s rubbed but I was able to clear them with rims that provided even more space, but just barely. I’d say your ability to run 35s with these arms is limited unless you want to run spacers. I also have a drivable alignment even with bent cam tabs that are hopefully getting fixed soon.