2TR-FE oil consumption issues

Yeah isn't that close if you convert the math?
On the up and up, you never have to change the oil any more, just keep adding and changing the filter every now and then

 

My figures are in km not miles so she eats a quart every 987 miles

 

For example my last trip was 5000 miles loosing a quart every 987 miles I'd have lost 5quarts before the trip was over, I could hear the valve train after 4.4 if I didn't have oil with me well you get it. This is progressively getting worse like I said started with 1 quart over 5k miles, babytaco experienced this as well although his HG went to complicate matters. I don't see it being a liveable situation

 

Subbed. My 2.7 has 245k miles and burns about a quart every 3k. Curious what could be the root cause of this

 

Rings I mean every truck is different, but if it mysteriously disappeared and isn't coming out the exhaust is say it's the ring issue

 

Ill do a compression test on it this weekend.. i saw yours were all 160psi, do you know what the upper and lower limits are? And is it like the 4.0 v6 where there needs to be less than 15psi difference between cylinders?

 

10 psi difference upper tolerance is 170, the kicker is even though compression is on the money it's still consuming oil. Getting a snake cam into the spark plug tubes will reveal more, my pistons look like they've been in an engine that's never had an oil change even though I'm meticulous with my maintenance because I run the truck hard in the bush.

 

Just to update this for those who arent following my build. I took the truck by a trusted friends shop we consulted his engine builder, who knew exactly what we were describing before we finished explaining it. He ran a few tests and confirmed it's what I thought about the oil control ring. He's rebuilt 5 although mine has the least amount of kms of the ones he's rebuilt. Friggen 35s eh... Anyways I'm proceeding with a full rebuild

 

Why not just carry an extra gallon (super mega liter for the canadians) of oil with you. Might also try running some marvel mystery oil or a quart of atf if you think the oil ring is gunked up. If your considering a rebuild I really doubt it would hurt anything your not already considering getting replaced.
If it were me I would get a pullout motor to go in instead of a rebuild

 

I hear you, Yetti. I just passed my 2qt/300-mile bench mark, and I'm on the phone with LKQ for a replacement. When I first got the truck, it was 1qt/1,500-miles, and as it turns out.....it refused to fix it's self. Rude!

Tried all different oil types and viscosities to try to slow it down. The truck hated all of it.

Now, mine does blow smoke, and the valves have been bent prior, so my top end is likely trashed in addition to the cylinders having issues. All of it's symptoms are pointing me towards just starting over with a lighter-used block instead of pecking away at valve seals, rings, honing, 'whoops, there goes the bottom end now', etc.

 

The 2TR community is rather small, and I'm sure many people myself included would be interested in seeing your pistons and rings should you go through a rebuilt. I dont mean this as an insult, but we'd love to see the pics to see if this is caused by neglect of maintenance or if it's just a result of Toyota amongst other manufacturers switching to lighter tension rings for emissions/MPG gains.

 

I am getting ready to pull and replace mine and I'm gonna have the old one rebuilt. I will post pics of mine when that happens. I change my oil every 3-5k with full synthetic and have done maintenance meticulously. Mine drinks about a quart every 3k but the head gasket is starting to go at 268k which is the reason for replacing it

I'm definitely interested in seeing other 2TRs as well though. Seems like this is a common issue

 

Thats a little disappointing to hear. Sounds like this is a wear issue after all. With modern synthetics being as good as they are my bet is that your rings will be clean, though we'll know for sure once you take it apart. I was hoping I wouldnt have to deal with oil consumption since I've been using synthetic oil every 5k since I bought the truck new. Definitely keep us posted! Are you rebuilding it your self or having a shop do all the disassembly/assembly?

 

I agree, definitely disappointing, I wanted to see 300k out of this motor, but the oil consumption issue would have probably gotten much worse by then. I am more than likely going to take my long block to LCE and have them rebuild it with upgraded internals, but I have been considering taking things apart and trying to learn something before sending it off so if I do that I'll take lots of pictures

 

So I'm around 20k km deep into the rebuilt engine it's been back in the truck for a year now. My block was bored 5tho over I got in contact with cp who make the pistons for lce went with the forged Teflon ones and Hastings race rings. Everything else is oem Toyota and new. I was able to pour oil out of my cats so I deleted them. Got a urd sim to correct the signal for the rear o2, also lce header and flowmaster delta 50 muffler

 

Thanks for the info man, I appreciate it. I was wondering what rings to go with. What compression ratio did you go with on the pistons?

I also running the LCE header, deleted my cats. I was worried about clogging mine up. I've got the stock catback still, it's pretty quiet still surprisingly.

Did you do any other upgrades like the balance shaft delete or bigger valves?

 

Stock compression. Obviously it's slightly higher being over bored, but I didn't wanna bump it as I was thinking boost, but now I have other things I'm working on. I went straight oem spec on everything as I was happy with the engine the rings just said no more

 

i have NO info for Used vehicles
the correct considerations are obliterated by the use/misuse of prev owners

their beliefs & practices .............................

i buy New
i keep any & ALL my vehicles several 100k miles

ive Never lost an engine
ive Never had excessive oil consumption
i race several different type engines

ive looked into many really good hi-performance engines
tho that rule o thumb does NOT exactly translate directly to street engines

i would suggest buy the best synth oil best suited to the type o driving U do
daily commute stop-go many cycles start go
is a totally diferent creature than hi-way at legal speeds

no less vastly diff than consistent towing

i find that very few are truthful/factual

brand new fleet diesels designed/engineered to pull upwards 80k- 100k pounds loaded
are warranted for almost 1million miles .........oil changes 15-30k miles
many go further
idling is the biggest negative to those same engines ( drive 10hours .......sometimes sit/idle 8-12hours )

the ' blow by ' contaminates the oil
the difference in thermal ranges affects the rings greatly

essentially the worst environment/scenario for oil
save for a top fuel dragster

deal is many thousands of engines over decades were manufactured
sold
driven
without oil filters GM bulit quite a few.... NO OIL FILTERS for years )
resulting in the proverbial>>>>>>>>>>>> Change every 3000 mile
One day that ' ol saw ) will die !!!!

gas is better
tolerances inside an engine are great oil is better than EVER
200k-300 expected & achieved

i used extended drain intervals
i change filters more often....................oil rarely wears out
most recycled oil IS

i do NOT changes brands or follow the hollow marketing
never found a OEM filter that was surpassed

 

Put the Ganga down

 

raced on mobil !
amsoil
redline

i prefer ' ester ' synths as opposed to ' paraffin ' synths

i can say im Not at all familiar with the new synths

weve run24hours never lost power or an engine

at teardown one ' reads ' an engine rather than wait for something to break
allows that proper set up initially avoids issues
HP gains are incremental rather than throwing a parts book at an engine
no less a consistent often time consevative ' tune ' nets goods results

allows the pilot not to overdrive yet rely on known parameters