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I don't have one sir. It sure is a cool ass truck though. I've watched a few reviews on it. The good part about buying Traxas is most hobby shops stock their products, and spare parts are easy to come by.

 

While it is a cool rig.... whaaaaaaat would you use it for? Bashing? Racing?
It's tons of money for something that you may run a few times and realize it's too big to run where you are so you don't drive it much. If your often out where you have wide open spaces then it could be cool.

 

Agree with @Egnaro, a 2wd slash was cool just to run up and down the street was cool for a little bit, but then you find yourself looking to do more. That’s when I found the racetrack. Went from 2wd slash to 4wd, every mod you can do, slash, then to a tekno. I felt the need to to step up from traxxas to be competitive. Traxxas has lots of parts available, so wouldn’t worry about the car, so much as what your intentions for it are.

 

Well you both bring up valid points...to be honest I used to have two slashes that were both brushless and 4wd. They were a lot of fun to drive, but being in Virginia there wasn't much to drive them on if not at a track since open areas are a little scarce. I later got into rc airplanes as I liked how the commitment funds wise wasn't as much as a car was and in ways it really intrigued me. I have become a decent pilot with rc airplanes and stuff, but recently have sold most in prep for my move to Arizona. Part of my enticement with the desert racer is the fact that I will have completely different terrain to play with it on. I would probably just keep to finding jumps or other crazy terrain to fly off of and enjoy without intentionally going to bash. It def does look like a blast as a rc car to drive though.

What aspects of the tekno made it more competitive? I ask as I don't have any experience other than traxxas when it comes to cars.

 

If you want a solid basher that will handle jumps and terrain, id recommend a 1/8 truggy. The UDR looks great but i really have an issue with the molded in traxxas battery connectors, ugh.

 

I think I want more of an all around truck that can just handle some solid driving as bashing has never been a passion although making it do jumps and stuff def is of interest which I think many off road trucks can do now out of the box. Is the UDR 1/8 scale?

 

i dont think Traxxas officially lists the scale, they just call it large scale. That being said its slightly smaller than Losi's 1/6 so most people refer to the UDR as 1/7. Its a big truck either way.

 

Have you had a chance to mess with one? I get the vibe you are pretty familiar with it. Im surprised they don't list more than a "pro scale" for it. Im sure the aftermarket parts for it will likely grow if I had to assume. I guess in your opinion, when would a guy buy it and then realize it wasn't for them? I know its not a crazy basher, but I think its pretty capable for most expectations for an off-road truck.

 

I havent driven it but ive checked it out in person next to a losi DBXLe. The UDR is solid build, looks durable and capable, i just cant get over the battery connectors molded into the chassis. Losi large scale is a bit more expensive but more traditional on build.

Edit: if i didnt have 10 other cars on deans plugs, the connectors on the UDR wouldnt bother me as much.

 

I do agree the connectors are an annoying move which Im sure they did solely to try to entice their battery sales over competitors. I think I might check out a hobby store this weekend and see if I can look at one in person. I used to always want a Losi back in the day when I had a Tmaxx.

 

For a really solid basher that can jump look at the Tekno MT410. Tekno makes one the strongest platforms out there, heavy but super durable. For racing Tekno is pretty dialed in but it seems like other platforms can be setup faster but at the expense of durability. We really give the Teknos a beating on the track with very little problems.

 

anybody interested in a Sanwa M12s RS? Great radio but I wan the lighter MT44

 

Lots of things, honestly. Shocks are bigger than anything you’ll put on a slash, metal chassis (less chassis flex, means body’s last longer), drivetrain and all metal components are high quality. It’s just overall a stronger car.

 

Not going on this rig, but waiting on paint to dry, so figured I’d mock it up. Sure does look good, lol.

 

So, bought this bumper to try and reverse it so I could utilize its winch point, in order to put a winch on the truggy and keep it behind the Servo. Took some chopping and some drilling and I think I managed to pull it off. Had to do some trimming on the pass side shock hoops due to the winch motor sticking out further that way. Since I was putting it on “backwards”, I had to cut some channels corners so that it would
sit on the frame. Chopped off the stinger, and the front corners in order to keep stock shock hoop mounts, threw some paint on it and about to put it together and see what it looks like.

**i would def recommend this bumper if anyone’s looking. For $9 it’s pretty stout. Being $9, it was worth the risk of chopping it up and possibly screwing it up and it being a waste.

 

Like.A.Glove. Still have to get a control module ($30 for “wired” which uses ch3, and $45 for “wireless” which comes with a remote. Will prob do wired so I can possibly and drive and use the winch as oppose to having to alternate between controls.). Didn’t know it needed a module until after purchasing, fml. I just figured it had a reciever plug on it and was going to run it off ch3. It’s on the upper end of the weight limit, so it’s a little smaller size winch than I would have preferred, but it was new, from another member, and cheaper than retail, so we’ll see how it goes. Worst case, it should work perfect for the deadbolt (few lbs lighter), so no harm, no foul.

 

@Tundra2Play

Looking badass!!! We need to get out crawling again. I just got back from ws.
I like the new foams, but I’m unsure on the tires. Need to see what others can do to make a good call on them.

I need someone to show me the line they take on the last pic. I tried that shit for 30 mins and gave up.

 

Nice to see that thing getting dirty!

 

I pretty much tore what had already been started down on the SCT to go over it and found the diffs were dang near empty. From what I've been reading the factory oil is too thin. What weights are you running in all 3 diffs? Shock oil and springs too?

 

I’m headed to Lonestar RC in Dallas for a diff winch control module. May hit up arbor hills or something after.

As far as SCT, mines currently: 10/10/7 f to b in diffs, 35wt with stock springs in front and 30wt with low frequency springs in the rear. Haven’t done the emulsion mod to the shocks, but I think it’s a pretty common mod.