Scheduled Maintenance (2nd gen) - 30,000 - 60,000 - 90,000 miles

I just did mine again and yes they were pre-gapped.

 

Thanks!! I gotta do this sometime before the cold weather gets here!

 

Thanks for posting this!

For the retorquing of the propeller shaft bolts, there are two torque figures for the one bolt in the center of the 4WD Access Cab/Double Cab pdf diagram. Am I supposed to tighten to the first torque, loosen, and then tighten to the second? I'll need to look for this bolt...didn't notice it before. I have seen the others at the ends of the prop shafts.

 

Did You Ever Get Around to Posting That Spreadsheet?
I Don't See It
I'd Download It. If It's Already Set Up

 

i could do all of this my self but i work at toyota

 

As for the engine air filter, is there a clip I need to be worried about on the back part of the air box? I plan on doing this tomorrow and it's raining outside so I couldn't get a look at it. How would I go about changing out the filter?

 

All these instructions good for 2011 model?

 

Cross reference your owners manual with the instructions posted here and you can tell us. I bet they're good to go for all years of Tacoma including 2011.

 

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I've got a stock '07 with 2.7L/4WD/5 speed. Looking at the service intervals none of them say to replace any gear box oil unless you're towing, only to inspect it. Can this be right? And the spark plug changes seem to be only for the V6 engines until the 120K service when it says "all models", is that true too?

 

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i have 28’6** on my ’07 TRD OR 4x4 v-6 mom say all that 30k man is BS. is it? or dose it really need to be done? i tried telling her it did need to be done. but she just says it’s a gimmick and it’s BS.

if it dose need to be done at 30k. should i get the stuff and do it my self? how much and hard would it be to do my self myself?

 

you can do that yourself...

 

What is this?
Re-torque propeller shaft bolt

 

Thank you. You guys are saving me a TON of money.

 

So I'm not a master mechanic by any means but I am quite handy and mechanical in nature. I'll pretty much attempt anything and 95% of the time succeed if I have the right tools and instructions. I also have a lazy streak in me and decided to take my truck in for the 30,000 dealer service. I tow, haul, and off-road a bit so I do feel that I could justify some early maintenance.

Of course the dealer's economy, enhanced, and premium packages have lots of extras included that the owner's manual doesn't. I didn't have everything done but it still cost me a cool $688.92 out the door. I'm very upset at myself because it was 117.35 in parts, 497.40 in labor, 30.00 shop fee crap, and 44.17 in taxes. In addition, when I got home there was a plastic part sitting in the windshield wiper well. They forgot to snap it back on one of the hose bends.

I could have saved myself over $500 doing stuff that isn't very hard, and using this site, even have instructions with pictures. I feel I would be more careful and precise also.

Here's what I had done:

- Front, rear, and transfer case oil changed (not hard)
- Spark plugs replaced (still not hard but time consuming)
- Drain and fill transmission (per their recommendations even though it's WS oil, not hard)
- 4-wheel alignment (I don't have the equipment so I don't feel bad)
- Fuel injector flush (I think this is stupid. I use Chevon and add some injector cleaner every 6 months. IMO same stuff.)
- Adjusted parking brake (not hard)
- Used shop supplies (I would use less than a half roll of paper towels)

Live and learn I guess.

 

THIS is only for 2005-2008 Sport TRDs as they have the mechanical limited slip differential in back...

2009 + are all electronic/ brake created limited slip (open differential).

 

I would assume that the first torque spec is to be sure that tha shaft is pulled all the way onto the splines, then you loosen the bolt then retorqe it to the recomended torque spec. This is a common procedure on alot of applications. This is probably the most time consuming of all the maintinence issues due to the fact you have to disassemble the u joint to get to the nut. May be a way to avoid having to do this but once, by using some thread locker on it. Probably the strongest would be best since you probably won't find yourself taking apart your driveshaft all that often. Good info, thanks to the OP.

 

Exactly why this thread exists! Well you got trans flush, alignment, and injectors cleaned, but those would be about $200-250.

 

Your mom is right, it's the devil. Just joking, with my refeerence from the water boy. All the stuff for maintinence on these Tacoma's is preventative maintinence. Just because you don't do it right at 30k mi doesn't mean your truck is going to fall apart. I haven't re torqued the bolt on the propeller shaft yet, and I doubt toyota did it for the first 25k mi either. I do plan on getting to it soon, but gunna put some blue loctite on the threads and never do it again. As far as price goes for the parts, it all depends on the products you buy. You'll need 6 qts of gear oil for the diffs and t-case, and they run anywhere btwn $3 a qt to $20 a qt, then if ya need slip fluid for the rear it's another $5. Spark plugs are $4 a piece or more, I think stock, which are great are bout $3-4 and if ya get long life iridium, it'll run ya $8 a piece. If you do a drain n fill on your auto trans, the WS fluid is almost $10 a qt and manuals just take gear oil. Check other threads for how much ya need, but with the auto trans I would buy more cuz ya never know how much the trans is gonna let out, manual trans is pretty strait forward though. Then greazin the u joints, just get a lil greaz gun that comes with no.2 lithium and should be bout $10-20. Then engine oil n filter. Intake air filter $20, cabin air filter $20. Remember this is preventative maintinence, it prevents your vehicle from developing major problems n breakdowns in the future. Keep up with all the stuff and your truck will outlive you.