TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Oh, forgot. It’s been a while since I’ve had that on there. Super tight.

 

Which is why a slightly smaller pulley would actually be of some benefit. There is space in there to afford a double bearing design in width, but in diameter I wouldn't go past stock size for sure. That's just me though.

 

I don’t have ucon so for me , no. If you , you might...

 

Its definitely worth asking him. Stock manifolds get s1 tune, removal of primary cats gets s2 tune, s3 is 7th injector support.
I dont know what he recommends with shorties and aftermarket cats since I have the URD's.

 

Once I get to that bridge I’ll reach out to him and report back on it

 

So, how much does the steeda unit not clear by? What e-fan setup is a good choice if one did go that route?

 

No one ever said the Steeda unit does not clear. None of these units will not not clear unless you run an overly tight belt setup because it will raise the tensioner arm resting height which will then interfere with the clutch driven fan if you do.

 

Oh. I misunderstood. Thanks

 

I'll update more info about the tensioner as I go. I just bought the 50mm double bearing unit and will install it the day I get it if all goes well. I'll let you guys know how it turns out.

 

Please do. Do you use a press to install the bearing?

 

No the bearings are already pressed into the pulley, the pulley is held in via bolt and is inserted into the sleeve on the tensioner arm.

As of right now I am running the stock idler pulley, but I don't like how it's barely inside the sleeve because of how I had to space it out to line up with the crank tracking of the pulley. Like I'm sort of uncomfortable with it.

 

Hope nothing goes haywire.

 

I'll probably return the steeda unit I ordered. Sounds like a bunch of work I dont have skills for.

 

I dont think it should in the next couple of days, but then again, I really dont want to risk it so I may go back to the stock tensioner until I can get my double bearing pulley in, as it is a much wider design than the stock pulley, which will absorb all the extra spacing the unit creates that the stock pulley needs to track on line with the crank.

Let me work out my tweaks and I'll get back to you about what may or may not be needed. Remember the Steeda is based upon the stock design and all that is done to it is a reinforcement plate is added to the arm itself. The base of the unit is fine and additional spacing should not be required like my Thump unit does. Theoretically your unit should be drop in and go as soon as you transfer the pulley over.

 

Thanks so much for being on top of the research on all this. I just wanted to be able to return it if it's a no go. Wish I still had a garage and a second car for some of these endeavors

 

I wish I did as well, believe me, I feel the exact same way.

 

This is why you need a good west coast 80 series.

 

I just pulled off the beef tensioner and reinstalled the stock unit for now. I inspected the idler pulley and found that it is in good shape and showed no signs of weird wearing. I am still going to hold off on running the setup until I get my 50mm idler dual bearing idler pulley though. I honestly hate the serpentine setup for these blowers. Such a pain to line up and get right.

Those things are badass! I wouldn't mind owning one at all!

 

Do you have a link for the double bearing idler? Its probable a few pages back but I'm lazy right now.

 

Just got my new ones! No labels too