LED Lighting Conversion

There is a better way. Drive up to a wall and place the truck about a foot away. Mark with tape the high point of the headlights on the wall on both sides. Move the truck back 25' and the headlights on the wall should drop 2" from your tape marks. Adjust accordingly.

 

That's what I was trying to remember. Thanks man!!

 

Where is the adjustment made...25ft back or at at the wall.

 

HOW TO AIM YOUR NEW RETROFITTED HEADLIGHTS


The DOT standard for headlamps alignment is as follows: (this is the california standard which I'm sure is more then fine for everywhere else considering the stiffness of rules and regulations we are faced with)

The standard states that a vehicle's headlights must be at 25ft away 2 1/2 inches below the given height of the headlight. To accomplish this I have written out a guide for you guys that just are new to this or for those of you that have been wanting to do this but aren't really sure how high or low you should go.

Ok to start here's some stuff that will be needed.

You'll need to have a completely leveled flat surface and plenty of flat ground to back up 25ft away from the wall. The wall will need to be flat as well.
Tools Needed:
Tape Measure
Masking/Painters Tape
8mm wrench or ratchet
Phillips Head Screwdriver


(The Tape is necessary for all the markings you'll be doing)
Cliff Notes:

Mark 1 = Center of the Vehicle.
Mark 2 = Height from the ground to the center of the Lens.
Mark 3 = Height from 25ft away that lower arc of beam should be at. (See 2nd Arc Picture)
Mark 4 = Distance from center of the Vehicle to the center of the Lens.

NOTICE: If you follow these instructions you will have a DOT approved alignment and will not be blinding oncoming drivers.


1. Pull up to the wall and mark the center of your car on the wall and your car. Mark 1 In the Diagram.

2. Measure the height from the ground to the center of your headlight (the center of the projector lens. Measure from Ground to Mark 2 and put Mark 2 on the wall.

3. Measure from the center of the car to the center of the Lens. Mark 1 to Mark 4 and put Mark 4 on the wall.

4.Measure from Mark 2 down 2 1/2 inches. Mark 2 Measure down 2 1/2 inches and put Mark 3 on the wall.
Your tape on the wall should now look like that of the diagram in the picture.


5. Use your tap measure and measure back 25ft from the wall and mark the ground at 25 ft away.

6. Put the tap measure right up next to your tires and proceed to back up until your front tire is at the 25ft mark.IMPORTANT!!! Be sure to keep the center of your car aligned with the center mark on the wall if you don't do so then your marks are now useless. I find using the tap measure helps you back up straight because you can use it as a guide with it extended out for you to back up next to (sort of like a curb)

7. Now adjust your lamps as needed as to align the lower section of the arc to line

8. If your horizontal aim is off to much you can remove the cover that is on the bolt for the horizontal alignment and adjust as needed. (see picture of bolts location. The bolt is on the outside section of the lens cap towards the fender at the top of the headlight.)
Thats it your DONE!!!!!! being that you have now aligned your headlights to the DOT standard you can drive around worry free of blinding your fellow motorist.


UPDATED PICS:

The lower arc is the lower section of the light beam as opposed to where it arc's upwards to the top arc section.

Here's a diagram I drew up of how your's should look on the wall and how the lights should be aimed to that diagram.
NOTE: The higher arc is not what you are trying to aim here its the lower arc that you are trying to aim to the correct height.

This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1024x462.

__________________

Their are bolts on the back of the headlight that can adjust the horizontal aim and the vertical aim.


* SPECIAL THANKS/CREDIT TO MiniStiGuy FROM THE LEGACYGT.COM FORUM *







Last edited: Apr 25, 2016


I found this! Thanks to who ever wrote this up. Thought I would repost.

 

I did mine 25' back from the wall. Just marked the wall at the cutoff, then raised it like 3 or 4 inches and then took a drive. It was perfect. Be sure to check cross traffic too. You don't want to blind people turning into the lane next to you.

 

Thanks for the support.

Turn signals are important as with the brighter lights everyone is adding you need this brighter front turn. And it can be seen in direct sun light where many LEDs vanish. These are the real deal no joke:
http://deautokey.com/product/universal-front-turn-signal-leds-fits-all-car-models

-7440 on the drop down - 7443 are in the works.

And all LEDs:
http://deautokey.com/category/shop-by-car-model-toyota-tacoma-all-years-trims

 

Very nice job man!!! I'm actaully going to save this for future reference

 

I can’t take credit. As I found it on a post. If I found who actually wrote it up I will post to give all credit there!!

 

Agreed, the front work great with no hyperflashing. I was asking about the rears.

 

Yea, I would be curious too since I have the 7440's in the fronts if I add a LED Brake, Turn and Reverse in the rear will there be hyper flashing.

 

What's up, everyone!! I did a quick little mod to the Tacoma over the weekend using some @deAutoLED.com lights.

Check it out here.....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aAO7vfBKO4w

 

Great job Brett!!! Excellent video!

 

So I have now started to notice that slight buzzing noise you were talking about. It's very brief and noticable right when I shut the vehicle off. Think I've only started noticing because recently I have set the light settings to door...no idea why it's happening. Hmm

 

Hmmm.. Is it only 1 bulb. Did you try switching it? How do you get that feature 'light settings to door'?

If you email the team they can use a different bulb but many testers never said anything with this issue so they would have not sent it out of if it was an issue and not sure to why this happened yet.
Support@deAutoLED.com

Thanks

Thanks for the video. It looks amazing

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aAO7vfBKO4w

LEDs can be found here:
http://deautokey.com/category/shop-by-car-model-toyota-tacoma-all-years-trims

 

I can't determine if it's specifically related to one light or not. I could pull it back down and test it however I'm still slightly hungover and don't feel like doing that right now, haha. I'll be sure to update y'all when I get around to it.... regardless I still love the lights.. Oh and the lights to door setting is the switch that allows the lights to be auto on when the doors open or some craziness..

 

I thought I was the only one having this issue. Not a big deal but still a bit annoying. They buzz when they turn on/off, especially noticeable when the interior lights are set to "door".

 

It is not an issue they saw prior to launching but can fix it - if you email them they will send out a model that are bright and different resistor that should not have the problem with your car:
Support@deAutoLED.com

Thanks

 

Just sent an email. Hoping to get buzz-free map LEDs. Thanks for the prompt response!