What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Yours was the one that was leaking into the booster right?

 

No. Its not leaking at all. When Im parked, and the truck is idling, if I press the pedal hard and fast it hangs up a bit about halfway down the stroke, like every other pump or so. Like a 2 stage rifle trigger if youve ever used one. If I go slow and steady, it doesnt happen. The issue was more noticeable after driving 100 miles the other day, I guess due to heat or something. The pedal is firm both before and after it hangs up, and the truck stops fine thankfully. I havent felt any inconsistencies while driving either. Just when I work the pedal while its idling. More of an annoyance than anything, I just dont want it to get worse. Ive bled all 5 bleeders and no change. Also compared it to the other Toyotas in my families fleet, they dont do such a thing.

 

Your pads and rotors are new too, right? What about your brake lines, are the original or have they been changed out?

 

New brembo blanks and Akebono pads. I did nothing to the lines. I used the appropriate amount of brake grease on the back of the pads and pins. Only issue was one piston got a little off camber and required me to crack the bleeder for it to go in right. Thats where the issue began I think. That, or leaving the cap off the reservoir for a little bit, or accidently injecting air into the master by using a baster to remove excess fluid.

 

I doubt the blaster added any air or leaving the cap off caused the issue....as far as I know that's what you're supposed to do when changing out your brakes (leave the cap off). But cracking the bleeder valve has required me to bleed the system completely to regain normal brake function. I know you've bled your brakes more times than you'd like to admit at this point...but I almost wonder if it's still a bleeding issue lol.

When you bleed them, how many pumps per bleeder valve do you go through? I have the person sitting in the truck do maybe 10 repetitions of several pumps each for all 4 corners...it takes time but from what I've read it's the only way to insure that you've completely bled the system thoroughly.

 

These 31s aren’t so bad after all. I’ve never actually driven the truck with stock size tires. Ever since I’ve had it it’s had 32-33’s. Truck feels great and gained about 2-3 mpg average. This is from my drive home which is mainly all highway. Now trying to lower the LTFT some starting with vacuum leaks and replacing the TRD supercharger bypass o rings. What are you guys seeing as far as LTFT’s? Mines highest at idle which I believe points to vacuum leaks. Based on research 14 seems pretty normal for an older engine, but I’d like to try to slowly improve it over time through maintenance.

 

Bled the fronts twice, and the rears once. My dads just pumps until the pedal gets hard, so 5ish pumps. Ill crack the valve maybe 5 times max. Tomorrow Ill try doing it more per valve I guess.

 

Eon blue nailed it. Also when you bleed you should start at the caliper furthest from the master cylinder, in this case passenger rear, and work your way back.

 

yeah I usually have the person pump it till the pedal gets firm, then crack the valve, bleed it, close it and have them do it again. 5 reps like that on each corner, I usually go through most of one of those big bottles of brake fluid to keep the reservoir topped off (make sure it doesn't get below the 'low' line while bleeding) until it's done.

 

I’m majorly in love with mine. Game changer for sure.

Truetrac isn’t a locker. It’s a limited slip. An autolocker in the front certainly isn’t for everyone, but if you’re one of the ones who are in its niche, it’s worth its weight in gold.

 

Guess Ill just keep bleeding then. It took a few nights of consecutive bleeding to get it right on my 92 after some new calipers. Im just perplexed as I havent found anyone online with a similar issue to mine. Really strange.

 

Been busy the last couple of days doing some repair work that was expected when I bought the truck. Passenger side CV axle had to be replaced and the rack and pinion as well. Then I found out I needed to do the front brakes - rotors, pads and bleed (still need to check the rear and bleed that end), replace the original PCV valve and grommet (had to dig that out of the cover) replace the passenger side tie rod and the power steering pump since someone before me had put power steering fluid into the system instead of the proper ATF. This softened and completely ruined the seals on the rack and I didn't want to chance ruining the new one by reusing the old pump. Both the rack and pump were the original equipment with 315k miles on them too. Everything is done now except the power steering pump which I'm waiting on the parts store to tell me they have it. That should be installed tomorrow then it's off to have the alignment done.

The old rack with 315k miles. Take close look at the passnger side boot. It was like that for a good long time I think.





New rack installed.



This was the fluid that drained out of the power steering system when I finally got it cracked open.



New tie rod and CV axle on the passenger side.



Anyone know if you can replace just the brake reservoir? Autozone and O'Reilly's only have it with the master, not separate.

 

how do you know when an Axle has gone bad??

 

front axle

 

When mine broke, the inner joint came apart inside the inner boot and caused it to flop around in 4wd.

It was definitely obvious when it happened, I was in 4x4 and suddenly there was this thunk THUNK thunkTHUNK thunkTHUNK coming from the side that blew up. Went away in 2wd

 

The inner boot on mine had been torn for so long that when I tried removing it, the inner stub almost stayed put while the rest of the axle started coming out. And it was the original with 315k miles. So I just replaced it instead of trying to just replace the boot.

 

Changed the oil, needed it after taking the truck from Colorado back to Connecticut early this month. Unfortunately I've had some life altering events that lead to moving back in with the 'rents. On the bright side, the truck drove pretty damn well the whole way out here. It's already been fluid filmed in prep for the New England winter.

Noticed a new vibration/hum today, having trouble describing it well for a search. Under load from 40 to 50mph, it feels "rotational" and starts slow but quickly speeds up faster than I'm accelerating. I feel it in the gas pedal. Any ideas?

 

Yeah, haha. Stock intake would have been fine in this though.

 

Tires out of balance? Usually the culprit when you get a vibration at those speeds especially. Wouldn't be surprised given the long road trip you just had, might be time to get the tires rebalanced

 

Oh damn!