What does a clutch fluid accumulator do?

The removal.

 

https://www.napaonline.com/p/BK_6415027

 

Thanks!

 

FWIW, I did not see anything like this on my 2014 2.7 SR while I was replacing my clutch the past few days. I can get pics is anyone would like.

 

I'm thinking about doing this on my 2014 OR double cab. Is this something that can be done pretty easily in the driveway? I just want to avoid the dreaded feeling when you immobilze your vehicle and realize there is no way of completing without a lift

 

It’s for squares and wimps. It was particularly bad in winter, took like 2 seconds when it was -30 for the pedal to come back up after I lifted my foot off...

 

So does bypassing the accumulator make the clutch pedal worse in cold temps or better?

 

Better. It's terrible in cold temps with the accumulator.

 

Can anyone yet confirm on the 3rd gen what part/piece/hose length is needed? Getting to the point where I want to do this and would like to have all parts on hand before starting... thanks.

 

I did my 2014 today. Much better. I wish I did this long ago. Now I don't get burnt clutch smell when trying start from a stop on a steep hill.

I did it in my garage and just needed to jack up the drivers side front. Having the steering wheel turned all the way right also made it easier. Total it took me about 2 hours. Having some long and stubby open ended 12mm and 10mm wrenches was helpful. There still was a lot of fighting getting my hands in there and loosening/tightening the fittings without damaging anything. I ended up loosening the fitting on the slave cylinder too since the lower fitting on the accumulator would not budge initially. As mentioned in the video notes, long socket extensions and a u-joint socket so you can get at the bolts via the wheel well are a must.

I got the brass fitting at a NAPA store, but couldn't remember if I needed regular or "bubble" type, so I bought both. You don't want the "bubble" version.

The fitting was all that was needed. I was able to bend the upper and lower lines without kinking them and reuse both. Hope this helps for anyone considering this mod.

 

probably accumulates fluid.

 

I think the explanation is correct but I think it's important to make a description distinction. What Toyota typically uses is correctly (I believe) called an Inverted Double Flare and not a Bubble, which is usually what the ISO/Euro (sometimes DIN, which may not be right) flare is called.

But it's not always the case, the question has come up because Bosch made ABS modules for Land Cruisers at some point and the fittings on that end of the lines were typical of European cars, e.g. the ISO/DIN Bubble and the rest of the brakes used SAE/Japanese Inverted Double.

The key is the female fitting will have a cone sticking up inside and not a cavity. The flare is sandwiched between two cones on Double Flare while the tube on Bubble is flat on back and seats against a concave cone.

Taken from IH8MUD: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/question-about-brake-line-fittings-cutting-and-flaring.779567/

Double Flare on left and Bubble Flare on right.



Again, Double Flare on left, Bubble Flare on right.



Taken from: http://www.fedhillusa.com/?page=flare

In this case Double Flare tube end.



Looking inside the female fitting for a Double Flare.



This is Bubble Flare.



Looking inside a female fitting with Bubble Flare.



And BTW, the NAPA coupler most people get is correct, inverted double. Only pointing out that "bubble" may be confusing.

https://www.napaonline.com/p/BK_6415027

A fairly easy comparison of "Double" vs "Bubble".



https://www.hoseandfittingsetc.com/our-blog/bid/76614/Brake-Line-Fitting-Identification-How-to

 

Nice work! I will link this for info purposes in the ADM thread. This would have made my research easier.

 

Any idea how to get the CF DF working properly? Now the accumulator is bypassed, but still the same problem. Is been now several years/almost 50k miles, it’s started to concern how long the sychros will last.

I have lenghten the master cylinder’s rod as much as I can, even tried to overlenghten it (the clutch pedal won’t go to the floor anymore), but no help. Now there is maybe 0.5 mm freeplay in the rod. And yes, it’s the clutch problem, I can feel it’s harder to disengage the gears too when it really dragging.

There is no problem when I start the engine (clutch is down), the clutch dragging is not able to spin the inner parts, easy to shift first time (no matter which gear). But then, especially when the engine is cold and revs are hanging, I can’t shift 1st or reverse before I shift to 3rd or so first.

Sometimes I have frustrated and burn the clutch a while, then everything works fine for weeks.

The clutch disc is somehow too sticky. It’s disengage at the normal point, but not 100%.

 

holy shit boys. bringing this thread back. i had no idea why my clutch on my 05 felt like shit compared to my 92 i had. this explains a lot. driving my truck after being plugged in on a -40°c morning, that damn pedal was molasses. never did that with my 92. clutch never felt right and seems inconsistent and had to learn to drive stick all over with my 05. deleting this shit finally

 

Some confusion here w/ the mix of early/late 2nd gen and 3rd gen postings.

Can someone post an authoritative summary of exactly what part(s) are needed for which year(s).

I have a 2014 V6 (1GR-FE) with the 6SP MT, 4WD, TRD-OR trim level.