Transmission R-A60 manual transmission information . Your 6 speed transmissiom (WRITE UP )

Subd

 

please report back if/when possible!

 

I have thoroughly enjoyed this thread and some of the comments on here... I have a 2006, and am approaching 220k miles still all original clutch, parts etc... but it sure has the "chirp"... and its annoying as hell...and been with me for as long as i can recall. I will re read this thread and see how to attempt to adjust my clutch in hopes of curing that sound.

I also have over the past year or two, missed somehow breaking a small plastic piece that lies down the shifter tube and was observed to be broken when the drivetrain was out of the vehicle last week during my Warranty Frame swap. The mechanic was aware of my 3rd gear issue, that of easily grinding the gear when going into from 2nd gear.

I had assumed that my synchromesh gear was worn and causing the problem. It still may be contributing.... not sure. But after they replaced that ($15 part- and called it a warranty too!) the stick shifter feels much more solid and springs back to the center when in neutral. And the process of shifting into 3rd gear is much better now.

When i asked the dealer about Transmission rebuilding they quickly said, no rebuilding - they just replace.... When i asked a local neighborhood auto mechanic the same questions, they said the same thing - that they are not equipped to break them open and service... maybe someone up in Jacksonville will do this, but no one here in St. Augustine.

I have friend with an old CJ5 jeep who was able to remove his and opened it up and rebuilt his... I hate to think about dropping $3500 on a new rebuilt Jasper transmission... (IF and when I truly needed that extreme solution) and after reading your posts, i have hope that I could take mine out and rebuild it... or replace with a 2014-15 model one as you suggested above.
I do wonder, how easily a newer 2nd Gen transmission would bolt up to my 2006? Any thoughts on this? Thanks!

 

>>dborrer, I wonder if you might PM me with your VIN so that I can run it in the current parts manual to check the part number for the entire assembly<<

From the start of production in 2004 until the end of production in 2015 the 2nd gen parts diagrams show three part numbers for the entire transmission unit of the 4WD: 33030-35A20, 33030-35A21 and 33030-35A22 with the 33030-35A22 being the most recent.

Even though -35A22 appears as the most recent part number it is currently shown as one of two options with the 2007 and 2008 models (either the older 33030-35A21 or the most recent 33030-35A22). What is screwy is the very earliest part number 33030-35A20 used at the beginning of production shows either -35A20 or the -35A21 for 2005, 2006, but since the -35A21 number also appears along with the option of using the most recent part number -35A22 in 2007 and 2008 I just reasoned that the most recent number would apply for all '05-'15 2nd Gen 4WDs.

I would like to sort this out once and for all and do a post to clarify what is different about the early part numbers that still show as applicable to the 2005 and 2006. It appears to me that the 33030-35A20 > supersedes to the -35A21 > and that in turn supersedes to -35A22.

It could be that there are still a number of these expensive transmissions in inventory IDK, but I personally would not seek one if it is unnecessary as the early part numbers would still have the old type internals. Or perhaps my reasoning is flawed.

Until such time the only safe thing to do is run the VIN. So I am modifying my earlier comments to something like I believe the current 4WD part number 33030-35A22 can be used in all 2005-15 2nd Gen 4WD models and is the preferred part but make sure you run the VIN to confirm before you buy something.

 

Thanks @dborrer for the VIN.

Your VIN is coming up with the older 33030-35A21 transmission. However, I also ran it on a half dozen of the more reliable dealer sites that have the new database and every one is now showing that number supersedes to the latest number 33030-35A22 transmission. I am linking just one of those dealer sites below for the example. The others are the same. Note the part number supersede sequence below the cart button and the the application pull-down at the bottom.

So if this were mine I would locate the 33030-35A22 that will be in a '14-'15, but you could even go back a couple of years before that but all the latest part revisions will be found in the '14 and '15, but the more critical parts may have been added as early as '11, I'll have to chase that one next.

https://toyotaparts.bochtoyotasouth...hY29tYSZ5PTIwMDYmdD1iYXNlJmU9NC0wbC12Ni1nYXM=

Anyone else have a 2005 that I could check? I would like to see an early production 2005 with a 2004 build date.

 

This might be the best place to ask. I have an odd whine that I might have called a neutral whine with my 9/2007 RA60F but it's constant regardless if I engage in the clutch or not. I originally thought it was a power steering whine but it sure sounds like it's coming from around the transmission.

Hard to describe beyond that but since it's there both with the clutch engaged and disengaged I'm inclined to think it's not bearings or gears in the transmission. So what could it be? Is this perhaps related to the throw out? Mine does chirp/squeal, the URD sleeve and clutch are on a short list.

 

With your foot off the clutch and in neutral does the whine change at all in either pitch or volume as the engine is revved up and then back down? I wonder if it really might be a bearing but coming from the idlers or alternator? Is there any way you can further isolate the general location a bit closer?

 

It's definitely proportion to engine RPM, both clutch in or out. It could be mistaken for a supercharger whine.

It doesn't sound like a PS pump and I'm pretty sure it's not the alternator (both based on the age-old shade tree technique of listening with a socket extension held to my ear and to the part with the engine running). It's more obvious laying under the truck than standing above the engine, however it's hard to localize forward or back.

Point is I'm not certain it's in the transmission or clutch, my intuition is that is it is not and it seems more consistent with something on the engine. An idler is something that makes sense to me and when I have time again I will pull the belt and test that theory.

 

I had the same issue about 2 months ago, after a week's worth of troubleshooting and socket extension listening, I found it to be my idler pulleys. Most of the noise was from one, but there was a faint whine from another, so I replaced all 3 and the belt. easy repair, about $180 in parts for me. Mind you, my truck has 264k on her, and this was shortly after taking a very muddy and wet adventure where everything and I mean everything got a nice silty bath.

 

Has anyone taken their truck to the dealership to repair T-SB-0365-10? I'm not sure this would be something I'll be able to fix myself with my tools.

 

have any pics of this?

 

Any tips on the clutch master cyl replacement? I am tackling this tonight on my truck

 

remove the lower dash, cluster surround, and cluster. Finagle the drivers side vent duct out of the dash and throw it at your passenger seat. Have about a foot of extensions and a swivel. All that to get the bolt on the top of the pedal. The lower bolts aren't that bad. Make sure you can free up the fluid line in the engine bay on the firewall to the right of the brake master. A 10mm crow's foot is necessary. 3 bolts, 2 sensor connectors, the line on the firewall, and everything else should be cake.

*Edit* Before removing the upper bolt, free up the firewall fluid line fitting.

 

X2

 

holy shit balls. This sounds fun

 

It's more involved than it should be, but not really that bad. I could do it again in about an hour and a half if I needed to.

 

I talked to someone on here that didn't remove any of that when replacing theirs. Really hope it doesn't come to that, I hate tearing apart interior pieces, that makes it a huge pita

 

I didn't remove any interior pieces.
Drain the clutch fluid from the slave cylinder, then unscrew the hard line, then using needle nose pliers push the clip on the soft line back and remove the hose, then unscrew the two main bolts and remove the master cylinder. It's a very tight space and it gets frustrating. Just take your time.

 

Thanks for the tips!

 

I would try it like they said, without removing the dash pieces. Worst case, you end up having to remove them later if you are unable to remove the master.