What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Yep the further you push a wheel out the more it eats the fender.

Didn't think of that. my battery tray can't do that as it utilizes the Optima batteries design.

 

The battery can't shift around at all because of the tabs on the left and right side of the battery, as well as the front and back towers that come up to the top plate. You can see the two side tabs in the first and second picture.

 

I’m thinking these, and keep the 1.25” spacers or maybe replace with 1” spacers
https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/pro-c...tern-matte-black-7069-7983/_/R-BKBQ-7069-7983

 

You'll need 1.25'' spacers minimum. Probably 1.5'' really.

 

The Brembos are definately coated to prevent rust. It's actually a pretty thick coating.

 

Yep, I saw them. I've also seen many shifted batteries after a hard landing, too.

I do like the design, just would feel better if the clamp was more hourglass shaped.

 

These are what I bought. The top of the hat thing not being coated bugs me but, whatever.

 

Luckily there is no physical way for this battery / cage setup to shift because the battery is up against a surface on all 4 sides.

My real worry is whenever I take off a battery terminal off, my wrench is very close to the top plate. An hourglass shape would be nice to allow the use of military battery terminals and allow some wrench room.

 

Exactly. I'd be more worried about a tool set down while working on something else. Seems like some sort of insulation (paint, plasti-dip) may not be a bad idea.

 

Are you talking about the Brembos? They were coated on mine (pic)

 

Make that clamp out of some hi density plastic or wood even.

 

Yeah, where the wheel goes on mine isnt coated, just the sides.

 

I do, if you run 33s they will get you back close to stock RPMs and you speedometer will be correct also.

They are a lot easier to find in a 4Runner, that's what mine came out of, been running them for 3 years

 

I just ordered relocation plates All-Pro Off road.

Grabbed Center of hub to fender flare measurements:
23.75" driver's front
24" on passenger front
24.25"driver's rear
24.75" passenger rear

Clearly has some lean.

I am thinking I will drop the front to 23" and then see where the rear settles to. If there is too much rake I will pull one of the leafs. The leaf would drop 15mm off the back so it all depends on how much the rear settles.

 

True Confessions time!! Had to pull my power steering reservoir off a second time following my flush and clean job yesterday, after I got foaming of the fluid and loud whine. I wasn't careful enough lining up the connection to the pump as I reassembled, and managed to cut the o-ring, which allowed it to suck in air. Strangely, it didn't seem to leak fluid back out, or at least nothing too noticeable. Nice thing is that the second time around usually goes quicker.

 

It will drop it more than 15mm. You lose that extra spring rate as well

 

The 15mm is simply based on what I have read to this point. Hoping to not need to drop a spring or overload but that will all depend on how much it settles over the next several weeks.

 

Tool plasti dip wouldn't be a bad idea for the top plate.

 

Same here. I got my 4.30 diff off a rust bucket 1996 4Runner Limited at Pick-n-Pull with <300k miles.

That thing was a pain in the ass to remove.

 

If those faces are uncoated then it's probably cause the coating they use is some type of paint. The photo posted earlier does look like paint. Commonly coated rotors are zinc plated which are usually silver, black, or gold.