*UPDATE*Dealer Replicates Issue. Out of Warranty.

I imagine the sound could return on a replacement pedal assembly. You are simply putting the disc brake grease on the pivot points of the pedal, it won't melt away in high temps and it won't contaminate anything.

 

You're not intentionally recording THEM though, or at least that is what a lawyer would argue. You are recording the sounds the truck makes, which is proof that it did it while they were testing it. I imagine a dashcam you have had for a good while would be easy to argue in favor of. A temporary gopro not so much.

 

Clearly.

The squeak is coming from the clutch pedal. Part of the power train.

 

Also there is this - https://www.roadandtrack.com/car-cu...mifications-of-having-a-dash-cam-in-your-car/

While it can technically be illegal if its hidden, having it in plane sight, the dashcam screen comes on, the red light flashes, the person can see something is recording what they are doing.

I just had my truck in the other day for a alignment issue, they said they cross rotated, then front to back, then reversed one of the tires. Only thing I saw was a alignment and the tech swearing at my truck because the traction control came on when trying to get up the alignment ramp.

 

If anything you also maybe dodged a bullet.

I went in for the same exact issues as you and thought I was coming out ahead getting the clutch squeak tsb done. I ended up with a screwed up clutch assembly and broken tabs on panels they removed. This is highly dependent on your dealer, but its a very awkward position to work in and im sure the techs would start getting a hissy fit after little time.

The biggest contributor to the temporary squeaky clutch fix is cleaning and re lubing the clevis on the junk pedal assembly. I highly doubt the master cylinder is to blame here. If you want you can order the oh so special toyota body grease W from your dealer and slather as much as you can on the problem area. I ended up removing the whole pedal and relubing everything. Super quiet and most importantly, assembled CORRECTLY.

You can check my thread about my botched squeak TSB.

Picture of mythical grease:

 

Body Grease, huh? Hmmmm, where to apply it?

 

I mean the name can't be any more clearer

It is rebottled Dow corning molykote YM-102. For plastic to metal sliding surfaces. Its 40 bucks for 50 grams. You can probabaly do 100 clutches packing it in liberally or display it on your dashboard to show how much of an OEM badass you are.

 

Hahaha!

Sheesh though. Honda Assembly Lube is about that size, mostly Moly, and why less $$:

$20 Honda HN 08798-9010 MOLY PASTE (M77)

https://www.amazon.com/Honda-HN-08798-9010-MOLY-PASTE/dp/B0083BWUYW
It isn't fun to work with though. Definitely paste and hard to get out.

I'd go disk brake grease if I get the squeak.

 

Sheesh, all this is starting to get me thinking...

Yet at the end of the day, is this simple fix of greasing really going to solve the issue long term?!

Just wondering why Toyota Motor Corp, issued this TSB with all these replacement parts.... ?

 

Been using the disc brake grease on my Tacoma's since 2008 and it fixes the issue. What happens is the Factory stuff melts off in high temps, disc brake grease does not.

 

Just to be clear...many states are one party consent states. Key word there is party. Meaning in order for you to consent, you must be a party to the conversation. If the truck is in the service bay and you aren’t physically there filming/recording, it can be inadmissible.

OA

Edit: just saw your road and track article that essentially touches on this point

 

This gen is easy to work on too.

 

Typical me.

 

So is an abacus.

 

People need to realize that a T.S.B. (Technical Service Bulletin) is not a "free fix at any point in time"; a TSB has no relation to warranty coverage whatsoever. A TSB is a document published by the manufacturer to aid in the repair of common and known problems at the dealership level. If they were unable to replicate it the last time you brought it in previously then there was no issue at that time even if you referenced a specific TSB.

There comes a point where people need to accept responsibility for having a vehicle OUTSIDE OF THE MANUFACTURERS WARRANTY! If your car insurance ended 10/31/2018 and you smash a pole at 1am on 11/1/2018 then it's TOUGH LUCK, YOU DO NOT HAVE COVERAGE. Dealers get a bad rapport because there are customers that think that their cars should be fixed for free no how many miles or how many years they own them.

If it's not a covered item, you have to pay to fix it.

 

Get the free parts from them and do the labor yourself.

 

More the reason if you feel something doesn't feel right with a brand new vehicle, TAKE IT IN and get it documented and save a copy of the dealer copy (consumer complaint page).

Exact same thing happened to wife's BMW 535 some years ago. Some pulley broke and car stalled and it was out of warranty..had to be towed to the BMW dealership. We paid $950 for the repair. Then 4 months later, we got a recall letter from BMW directly for the steering/pulley. I looked at the part #s under recall and it was the exact part # we paid for out of pocket.

Took the letter to BMW the same week and they tried to brush it off. I called BMW Corporate (insider info from a member at Bimmer forums) and explained the repair/local run-around. They told me to have dealer call them directly.

Went back to bmw dealer and then they had me talk to the service mgr and finally they agreed on reimbursing me. But even at that, the check took another 6 weeks before I had it.

Now on my X5, I've saving every recall letter I get from BMW .

 

It's not just Toyota it's every make. There's the odd dealer that is good though

 

I hear you on this, but you need to understand, that this was a documented case, well before my 3 year / 36k mike warranty was up.

This was a known issue from Toyota, and the dealer said they couldn’t replicate it, just like they said they couldn’t replicate my rear whine howl that I had to pester them about, over and over.

I’m making a statement here to say, due your due diligence, and get your problems in writing, starting a paper trail.

I’ll have a good chance of getting this covered because it was a known issue and I brought it up well before my warranty expired.

I’m not asking for a freebie. I’m asking for the solution to a problem that already existed.

 

Smart man and way to be persistent. Always wise to keep documentation on everything. A shame you had to fight, tooth and nail just to get reimbursed.