Let's see your FJ case swap

Awesome! This looks so clean that you could take it to the dealership and they wouldn't notice it didn't come like that from the factory.
Just looked thru your pics. Did you hack up the spare tire jack handle to build your lever?

 

Thank
No, used broken 3/8 socket extension.

 

Soooooo.... What do you guys know about servicing this unit? I found a lot of input shaft movement on mine.

At rest...



Pulling downward with moderate pressure (not enough to move the case) with my thumb...



Pushing upwards with light pressure...



That's a total of about 0.020" of play! I'm guessing that's terrible. There should be none, right?

Other than the slop, the case seems great. Very clean, rotates easily in all gears, shifts smoothly, a bit of noise in 4wd but that's probably normal with all the gears and chains moving.

So what do I need to know to correct this problem? Anyone have a good schematic? Source for parts? Things I should know before I crack this thing open? I heard somewhere to only open it up when it's shifted into 2wd or else some tiny blocks fall out of somewhere into the bottom of the case.

Any help is appreciated! Thanks!

 

Return it. Was probably damaged in shipping, handling or hasty, impatient removal.

 

Maybe, but returning is likely to be pricey.

I did a bit or research around the inter-screen looking for specs but didn't find much. Found some legit FSM stuff though!

VF2A Components:

https://www.purefjcruiser.com/docs/2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser Repair Manual/VF2A Transfer/Transfer Assembly/02000510.pdf

VF2A Removal/disassembly:

https://www.purefjcruiser.com/docs/2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser Repair Manual/VF2A Transfer/Transfer Assembly/020003.pdf

VF2A Inspection:

http://www.purefjcruiser.com/docs/2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser Repair Manual/VF2A Transfer/Transfer Assembly/020004.pdf

Also I searched around for "Input shaft play". From what I found some play is normal in transmission input shafts because they rely on the pilot bearing for support. I wonder if the same holds true for the transfer case since the input splines onto the trans and is solidly bolted to it.

 

Changing the input shaft bearing isn't too hard, if that play is considered excessive i would source a new bearing a few hours of work to tear down the case but you can also inspect the gerotor and relief valve, probably the two most important components in the case.

 

RST has their own twin sticks coming out in a week or two.

They’re $289 but there is no boot. I know, because my FROR boot is torn and I called Wyatt a couple of days ago to see what other options there are. I ordered a set.

I’m thinking about ordering a Marlin Crawler. I figure if I’m redoing $300 sticks, now is the time if I’m ever going to do it.

 

I've seen their twin stick on a recent install of a RST modded case. It has a machined cap with offset levers that have orings to keep fluid in the case. Very nice design if you don't mind the sticks coming straight up.

 

I haven’t seen it. Wyatt just described it to me. In my case, it doesn’t matter if the sticks are straight, as I’ll have to modify them anyway. He said they don’t even ship the sticks with the O-rings installed because most end up getting welded on.

Unless, I add a Marlin. In that case, I will have to modify that stick instead.

 

Curious on the availability now of the crawl box... last time I looked I couldn’t find them online.

 

x2. No more Inchworm, TG only sells 1st gen,and Marlin, from their website voting, seems really short stock.

Atlas might be a better option, especially with the heaveir taco and a few more ponies.

 

Marlin for 2nd gens were always rare and/or in short supply. When I bought inchworm it was only a 3 week turnaround.
Of course it took me almost 2 years to actually finalize the install.

 

30-45 days for a Marlin.

I was considering an Atlas though. More research needed.

 

I can’t find any second Gens with an Atlas.

 

Cant find any builds yet, thought I remember seeing one....

Basically need this: http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/toyota-tacoma-fj-4runner-lefty-atlas-transfer-case.html


Then pick your flavor of Atlas!

 

My thoughts are that there would be a considerable amount of additional fab work needed. Atlas would be a more stout option though based on the construction and design.
With the “taco box” we had to fab up the new cross member, and I’m not sure how the electronics for the dash lights would function after eliminating the stock transfer case...
Custom driveshafts would be needed regardless.
Interesting project for sure.

 

Crossmember would be doable, especially with the new "ring" mount AA and a few others companies cameout with. Not sure how you and others are doing for the sensors/dashlights for twinstick/crawlboxes now? Would it be doable with the Atlas? Only thing I could see that wouldnt be the same is position sensors like the toyota tcases have.

 

I’m not worried about electronics really. The only electronics I have left in the 4x4 system IS the dash lights. The 4x4 ECU is removed.

It’s a lot of fab work AND a lot more money considering I already have the FJ case.

Maybe I need to just back off the crawl box. It wasn’t even on the map for me until @stairgod planted the seed.

I really need to stop talking to that guy...

 

So with the Atlas you’d get a 3.8:1 ratio. Essentially just replacing the the t-case and no crawl box.
The dual cases give you a 4.7 ratio in the crawler AND the stock 2.8 low ratio on the t-case.

Compound low FTW.

Tim, if you’d like to try it out let me know.

 

I was thinking this, cause