Yet Another ECGS Bushing Installation - 2013 Tacoma

Fantastic write up and pics OP.

 

I have toyo at2s c rated. I guess they were even aside from the cupping on all 4. And it pulls to the left, and i do have a noise that i assume was my tread making noise from front left wheel. It also pulls to the left. But shop said its aligned twice.

 

@Cody23

 

Does the noise move with tire rotation? Does it change with turning? You may have a bad wheel bearing. If the noise follows a tire during a rotation then it's a tire. If it gets louder when loading and u loading then probably a bad bearing. If it goes away eh3n 4x4 is engaged then probably the needle bearing that this post is showing to replace.

 

Its mostly only noticable at highway speeds.

 

The vibration you feel and goes away though is most likely flat spots developing while parked and go away after warming up.

 

So are you feeling a vibration or hearing a noise? Those will be two different issues.

 

thanks pal.

 

It is more of a humming than a vibration at speeds of 30-45 mph. There will be some vibration felt in the pedals floorboard n wheel. It doesn’t feel like a vibration that an out of balanced tire feels like or a bad wheel bearing. If the noise goes away in 4H it is a bad needle bearing.

 

No, its a problem with the factory needle bearing.

 

Help! I’ve spent 2 hours trying to get the removal tool behind the needle bearing. There is just no way it’s going to stand up in there. It hits the far side of the bearing no matter how carefully I position the other end into the gap.

Did you guys just hammer it past the bearing, probably breaking the needle cage?? Or is my tool not made to spec (too big)?

 

I had the same issue. I had to carefully grind the ends down at an angle to squeeze it in. It seemed sketchy too. I was thinking shit, if I pound this thing in and can't get it out I'm screwed.

Maybe this helps?

 

Haha, I just did that! Grinding the edge got the tolerance close enough to tap it the last bit of the way with a screwdriver and hammer.

The bearing cage still broke slightly, like many other pictures in other threads.

 

Yep!

 

Subd great writeup OP gonna knock this out this week.

 

I just completed the ECGS bushing install. I also had a clicking half shaft so knocked both out. I followed these good instructions. It was the first time doing this and took about 3.5 hours including a complete tool and area cleanup and using air tools.
Removing the half shaft took almost 20 minutes. Some hits on the notches followed by prying with a $8 Wallyworld 17" prybar after which popped it right out.
I used one sheet of the blue hand towels folded twice, rolled up and stuffed in the hole. I did not modify the ECGS removal tool but it needed to be lightly tapped in place. The needle bearing was stubborn to budge at first but made a slight snap noise breaking loose and then came out easily. The bearing race did not break. I didn't have a 22mm ratcheting wrench so did the slow adjustable crescent wrench 1/4 turn. I did put the ECGS bushing in the freezer for a few minutes before tapping in. I took care of the inner wheel bearing seal replacement while it cooled down. I had previously replaced the wheel bearing assembly but didn't replace the inner seal which was also bad. Shame on me.

I didn't get the memo about the ECGS bushing install tool so had ordered that also. I had to file the taper of the smallest adapter to get it to fit into the bushing. It is a similar to a kit that you can buy on Amazon for $20-30. The bushing tapped in nicely but slowly to just flush to the inner race. The old seal still looked new but was replaced anyway and installed with a 2" PVC coupler to flush with the housing.
I was confused about the position of the C clip on the half shaft. I tried to install with the opening at the 12 o'clock position. No luck with that after a few unsuccessful minutes of trying. I took the shaft out and observed the clip opening at the 6 o'clock position and decided that was it. Just for grins I re-inserted the shaft which was held up horizontal by an old military belt around the coil spring and C clip opening at 6 o'clock. After making sure the shaft was seated by hand as far in as possible I lightly hit the shaft end with a rubber mallet and it seated with one strike. Talk about a happy dumbfound feeling!
The test drive was smooth and no vibration anymore.
Something I learned about the stubborn dust cover removal is to use a sacrificial wood chisel to break the seal. A few light taps around the dust cover is enough to get a proper pry bar in.

 

Sub'd for later use. Nice work!

 

Sorry to bring up old thread, but do we need an alignment after this?

 

No

 

@RUSSELLTACO