Bilstein 5100 w/ OME 885

can you post another side pic so i can see whole truck’s stance?

 

About rotating... Sometimes diy can be a pain. I have two places near my house that will let me bring my own oil and they change it and rotate my tires for $20. Includes filter change too. Call around and ask for a deal. Mine is this place in Los Alamitos and the other is in Long Beach.

 

But then you dont get to spend time in the garage.

 

Size tires?

 

I kind of like doing the oil changes myself, and I know wrestling the tires on and of can be a PITA, but having a floor jack and cordless impact driver make most of the work pretty quick. Ideally I'd love to have a high-bay with a lift and shop air in my garage at home, but there's a lot of other more important updates to do first.

I'm sure I could find some place local that wouldn't be too spendy, but being up around LAX means that Los Al and Long beach are each at least an hour drive at the times I'm free. Gotta love the 405 through the South Bay...

 

Yep it's a trade-off. Sometimes I can't

 

How's the suspension actually feel in the front with that bumper? I have the same exact setup as you with stock bumper. But I've been eyeing that one

 

I've never had any complaints. With the custom alcan leaf packs I have in the rear which I ordered to ride stiffer than stick with 500lb in the bed, there's a definite difference between the front and back over bumps, especially when it's empty. I've got a little wiggle in the steering over 70mph, but I might have lost a balancing weight on one corner when I got hit a couple months ago or it could just be the cupped tread on the tire acting up. I don't get on the freeway very often though since I live 2 miles from work and have been working 6 days/week for the last several months (another reason why I'm behind on some maintainence).

The bumper is solid as hell, which I learned when someone's nanny backed a Nissan Armada into me at a red light a year or two back. One thing I also learned is that the fit of the recovery lugs on the bumper is pretty tight to a 3/4" shackle, so don't put too much paint in there if you do the finish yourself.

It obviously doesn't retain as much stock material as the HWMS mounts and you do need to cut off one of the factory hooks from the frame with a grinder to fit it on, but it ends up looking pretty organic and gives a bit of front-end armor in the middle with the exposed tub. If you're not looking to install a winch with it, there is room for a 30" double-row light bar, but with a winch the mount points will only have room for a couple of pods (I used 6" 2x3 4D spot pods, or else any 4" cube will fit fine). You might be able to fabricate some kind of extension bracket to push a light bar forward, but it'll be stuck out in front of everything without any protection if you do that.

 

Not a great pic, but here is 285/75r16 Cooper XLT’s on my 5100/885 lift up front with 1.5 AAL in the rear. Rear is half an inch taller than front. Gained 3” total up front

 

Sure, I was going to try to yesterday but got home too late and it was dark. I'll try today.

265 70 R17 Goodyear Duratrac c load

 

Awesome man thanks!
i have to install my 5100/885 and Headstrong off-road 3 leaf aal. been sitting on it for almost 2 years now....... smfh.

also what is the ideal specs my alignment should be? i bought total chaos UCA’s as well to help with alignment. i asked around here while back and someone said

0° toe
0° camber
2.5°ish caster

does that sound about right?

 

You’re within spec so yeah it’s good, personally i wanted 3-3.5* of caster but you’re good

 

yeah i pretty much ant the truck aligned so i won’t have any problems or any of that. i know nothing about alignment specs.
what would 3-3.5* of caster be different compared to what i posted?

 

I was able to get 2.1 and 2.2 caster with my stock uca and camber and tow pretty close to 0. Any more caster and I would sacrifice camber. I would think you should be able to get close to 3 in caster and still have 0 in camber and tow with after market uca.

 

so should my alignment specs be different than what i posted? I just gotta know what to tell the place who aligns it as someone told me can’t align it to factory spec since it’s lifted and all that and would be different.? really clueless here haha someone help me out!!

 

I think a good rule of thumb is to tell them to get you as much caster as they can while keeping camber and toe around 0. This is just want I gathered from my reading on like 20 different alignment threads here. I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm mistaken.

 

You guys are right, above.

You want ALL the caster, with toe and camber at 0.

 

^^ what he said, you want as much caster as possible while keeping camber and toe as close to 0 as possible. More caster is beneficial if you run bigger tires because it pushes your tires away from your cab mount.

 

Standard duty Dakar/885 shining in the sun. Also, I bought some .5” strut top spacers that I’m planning to throw on top of the front assemblies to give me just a hair more lift.

 

That looks great. What tire and wheel size combo are you running? Any rubbing?