LED Lighting Conversion

Awesome video (and the previous one too)!!!



I know I've been absent from TW for a while, but now that I'm living in farm country, I REALLY appreciate my Xenon Depot LED Xtreme Pro's (in the LBs) and Hikari's (in the HB) paired with the Morimoto fogs. Between long dark roads, wildlife, mud, and occasional fog, it sure has been a test that I didn't have in Hawaii. lol

Now ditch lights seem like a great idea so we can have a little earlier warning of the wild life that might try jumping into our path (on those side roads when I'm alone and using my HBs).

 

Dude, I'm testing some HB's for @deAutoLED.com and they are by far the best and brightest I've ever seen. They are adjustable and bigger than your typical setup, but worth it in performance. They aren't available yet I don't think. I'm running the morimoto XB fogs and Morimoto 55w Elite HID kit.

I have the CaliRasied Side Shooter ditch lights and those are pretty sweet.

 

For buzzing they will handle it - they tested so much they are highly upset any customer is being inconvenienced as they didn't see it during testing.
Once this is done testing just contact them and they will send the buzz-free model and that is the model that is going to go out now.

For HB - they are OUT and the best on the market - if you want a set just email Support@deAutoLED.com - they will make a special listing soon for everyone.

Thanks for the support everyone

 

I just put mine in this weekend, and definitely have the buzz, too.

 

Sorry about this - got word that the team this morning that no testers had the issue so they are sending out the new model today and will keep the forum updated. They can send the new model once the testing is done but it should fix the issue.

But having them replaced is no issue they will get that done for everyone.

Thanks for your patience.

 

I am very interested in these.. how exactly do you switch between the Yellow and the White? Just by clicking the foglights on and off on the factory switch?

Thanks!

 

and THIS is why I left TW while I finished selling my old house and bought a newone...so I wouldn't spend my money on my truck. lol

Are you using LEDs or HIDs in the HBs?

 

HB's I am using an LED from @deAutoLED.com. Its a 45w LED bulb. It a much larger design than what you typically see. Its got an HID style ballast and a fairly large resistor and the bulb design is also larger. With that said, the larger design is worth the performance IMO. I am actually working on a video comparing those to the Hikari Cree, Phillips, and AuxBeam F-16.

 

Sweet. Looking forward to the comparison! If you are able, I'd be interested in seeing how thin they all are...like Rob showed us with his Xenon Depot's:

I can't believe how far back I had to go to find that pic. This thread has really grown over the past couple of years! I really wish we could update that first post because it's soooooooooooo outdated...

 

Need to use a digital micrometer! I believe the XD bulbs were 4.0mm from chip face to chip face.

Edit: I should add the reason to use a digital micrometer is it is the distance between the faces of the LED chips that is most important, the thickness of the blade/rod is less so if the LEDs are inset.

 

Thanks for the support - they have a few more HB on hand if anyone is interested please email Support@deAutoLED.com - they are very bright LED model and brightest they tested and why they sent it.

From their testing it does beat out the hikari and we know Tacoma World wants the best and brightest so this is great for the darker winters and light bar and pod lovers out there!

 

Just an update.

Interior LED is all fixed - still VERY bright but no buzzing:
http://deautokey.com/product/complete-interior-led-kit-for-toyota-tacoma-3rd-gen-2016

This included:
Sun visors
Glove box
Domes front and rear
-no flickering no buzzing
-fades in/out
-no harsh on/off
-And they shut completely off!

ALL LEDs - brightest HID/FOG and turns:
http://deautokey.com/category/shop-by-car-model-toyota-tacoma-all-years-trims

 

@RobP62 - Thanks for the feedback, happy to hear (and see) that you're still enjoying The H11 Xtreme Pro LED bulbs. Maybe we should send you a set of our updated version that puts out 1900 lumens stable This is about about a 10-15% increase in light output from our previous iteration due to an optimized heatsink.

HID is definitely the way to go for the brightest possible light output. NO LED kit will compete with an HID kit (regardless of what bogus lumens claims you read). To the best of my knowledge, I am not familiar with an LED kit that uses passive cooling (no fans) that can put anywhere near 1900 lumens stable - and by 1900 lumens I mean actual, real, stable 1900 lumens (after the bulb as been on for 20 minutes).

Gotta love seeing the "new" fan based LED Kits being sold showing how easy it is to replace a fan that failed... Clearly - fans fail.



Steve

 

There is lots of confusion around this topic.

First off, hyper flash only occurs with the signal lights. Changing other bulbs to led has no impact on signal light hyper flash.

Yes, correct in that hyperflash is a method that the vehicle is warning you that it thinks a bulb is out. Yes, this function is done by the flasher module with a resistor where all the current flow going to your signal light passes through a resistor. This current flow creates a voltage drop across the resistor. The voltage drop is measured, and as long as the voltage drop is greater than 0.05V, the flash rate will be correct. If there is less current flow through the resistor, there will be a smaller voltage drop. LEDs require less current to operate than incandescent bulbs, producing less voltage drop across this sensing resistor. The amount of current draw varies considerably between LED bulb styles. To compensate, folks add resistors across the bulb circuit ( between the 12V signal and ground) such that the current flow now is similar to the larger current flow of an incandescent bulb. None of the LED signal light bulbs will have a built in extra hyper flash eliminated resistor, though if the bulb comes with a separate driver module external to the bulb, it may have one there.
The reason for this is the current flowing through the resistor is converted to heat (versus light) and that heat would be too much for the LED or the light housing to survive.

You would only need to add such resistors at the front or the back, not both, as your signal circuit always involves both a front and rear bulb.

The best solution, that doesnt create excess heat, is to modify the resistor value in the flasher, removing it and exchanging it for an increase in value that provides the correct voltage drop signal, with the reduced current flow of the LED signal bulbs. By the way, if you increase the resistor value in the flasher too far, such that the voltage drop created is too large, then the flasher will not flash at all.

Hope that helps.

 

There is a lot of confusion.

The deAutoLED FRONT TURN LEDs 7440 - do not hyper-flash - do not cause any errors - DO NOT require any outside load resistors or tapping into wires or coding - all 10000% plug and play guaranteed:
http://deautokey.com/product/universal-front-turn-signal-leds-fits-all-car-models

And they are a very bright bulb as demonstrated here by Parker315:
https://youtu.be/UtxbvQSd-JM

 

Okay I tried reading through all 185 pages but I honestly just don't know what is being talked about to be honest. I am a disabled veteran so money isn't exactly flowing but the stock low beams on my 2018 Tacoma are horrendous and I am looking for a better set up. If anyone can help me out with a clear cut link to what I should be looking at for my truck. I am not in favor of either LED or HID just want a good affordable kit. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

@deAutoLED.com Noticed your ordering selector does not distinguish between 3157CK and normal 3157.

 

However, when combined with replacing both front and rear incandescent bulbs to LED the user will encounter the hyperflash. Looking up the bulb replacement guide for 2016+ Tacoma shows the rear signal light as a filament bulb.

 

There is no hyper-flashing when changing to 3157 and 7440 - a few are running this setup with deAutoLEDs without issue or problems.

I'm making mention of this as saying otherwise will confuse the user with other LEDs that cause issues as deAutoLED has been tested to not have any issues.

They only launch and sell products that have been tested to work and look good. Anything you seen has already been in a few Tacoma models and some for over a year. While being a new vendor here they have been working with many vendors here prior to becoming an official TW vendor.

Thank you

 

No doubt, as tested by users here that the deAutoLED front signal light conversion to LED does not produce hyperflash. What users have noted is that when they also switch their rear signal light to LED they do get hyperflash.

Noticed that your ordering selector does not include the 7443 bulb type required for the 2016+ Tacoma rear signal. Based on the above, you may want to check with your staff if they really have tested both front and back LED solution together, with the stock flasher module to confirm there is no hyper flash, perhaps update the above.