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Rockford Fosgate speakers, OEM HU, Auto Sound Leveler, future Alpine KTP-445U install

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by TAC1, Nov 5, 2018.

  1. Nov 5, 2018 at 8:13 PM
    #1
    TAC1

    TAC1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Tac1
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    Hello

    I have a 2015 DCSB O/R 4x4 with its original Entune Audio Plus Radio #510140. I ordered front and rear Rockford Fosgates (model R169X2 & R1675X2) from Crutchfield (after @Zac of all trades response I realized I didn’t post the speaker specs):
    • 6"x9" 2-way speakers (pair)
    • polypropylene woofer cone with rubber surround
    • 1/2" silk dome tweeter
    • power range: 2-65 watts RMS (130 watts peak power)
    • frequency response: 48-20,000 Hz
    • sensitivity: 90 dB

    • 6-3/4" 2-way speakers (pair)
    • polypropylene woofer cone with rubber surround
    • 1/2" silk dome tweeter
    • power range: 2-45 watts RMS (90 watts peak power)
    • frequency response: 52-20,000 Hz
    • sensitivity: 91 dB
    The rep said they are a definite upgrade from the OEM speakers. He said they will work well with my stock HU and even better once I get the Alpine amp, which I plan to buy in the next couple of months.

    Anyone on here running this set up or something similar? How do you like the Alpine amp?

    Also, does your Auto Sound Leveler even work? I’ve tried it at all settings and at all speeds and I don’t hear any difference. I have it “OFF” at the moment and once the amp is installed I won’t care for it at all.

    For those of you running something similar to this set up, is it a substantial improvement from OE? I find the volume too low on the HU but other than that I like it.

    Also, did you use sound deadening material in the doors?

    Basically what I am looking for is louder, clearer, & punchier (if that’s even a word) music. I know it’s not gonna thump like a sub but definitely want an improvement over stock

    Thank you
     
    Last edited: Nov 6, 2018
  2. Nov 6, 2018 at 4:46 AM
    #2
    Zac of all trades

    Zac of all trades FWP Fabrication Vendor

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    Zac
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    So basically almost any after market speaker will an upgrade from OEM.

    Thing about OEM is that they designed the speaker for they HU which is also crap. They will boost the highs at low volume and decrease the bass at high volumes. And they only put out ~10 watts rms per channel.

    So the new speakers you got require probably around ~100w rms to actually play as intended. Once you get an amp powering them you will notice the sound will be louder and you will have better quality sound coming out of them.

    To get the best sound you need to also update your HU so that you dont have the factory HU messing with you audio signal at different volumes.

    I have a arc audio 600.4 amp running hybrid audio 6x9s and tweeters, i am very impressed by this setup. Hybrid audio has a crap load of audio competition wins!

    If you are into home audio check out dayton audio, they make great stuff for good prices. You can find their stuff on partsexpress.com
     
    TAC1[QUOTED][OP] likes this.
  3. Nov 6, 2018 at 5:38 AM
    #3
    TAC1

    TAC1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I should've posted the speaker specs on my original post:
    • 6"x9" 2-way speakers (pair)
    • polypropylene woofer cone with rubber surround
    • 1/2" silk dome tweeter
    • power range: 2-65 watts RMS (130 watts peak power)
    • frequency response: 48-20,000 Hz
    • sensitivity: 90 dB

    • 6-3/4" 2-way speakers (pair)
    • polypropylene woofer cone with rubber surround
    • 1/2" silk dome tweeter
    • power range: 2-45 watts RMS (90 watts peak power)
    • frequency response: 52-20,000 Hz
    • sensitivity: 91 dB

    As for the HU, I’ve read quite a few posts stating what you just did. I’ll try it out once the speakers (and then the amp) are installed. You’re right about OEM HU quality vs aftermarket quality but I wasn’t aware of the Entune limiting bass outpit at higher volumes. Maybe that’s the ASL feature? My ASL makes no difference that I can notice. I have it off and will leave it off once I run this set up as well and go from there. I’m not into home audio but I’ve heard of partsexpress.

    Thank you for the info.
     
  4. Nov 6, 2018 at 5:40 AM
    #4
    destin_meeks

    destin_meeks I used to fix people's crappy stereos

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    Rockford speakers work great. They get loud. If a client ever tells me they want volume, we go Rockford.

    I personally don’t like the alpine power pack if you’re keeping the original head unit.

    I am much more a fan of the Kicker Key. Same output at the alpine, but has a calibration mic and a 40 band auto-EQ and time alignment. This makes up for many of the factory radios shortcomings. Lots of threads about this particular amp now.

    As for needing 100w, that’s huge overkill. Rockford speakers are very sensitive so they play loud without tons of power. You will get plenty of power out of these new brick amps (just ask all the people here using them)

    Don’t expect any increase in bass (some say they see decreases in bass depending on the speaker of choice)
    Most find themselves adding a sub shortly after. 6.5” and 6x9 speakers just aren’t great bass boomers in our trucks.

    As for bass roll off that Zac describes in the post above, I haven’t noticed it in my 18, or in any other toacoma I’ve worked in. I won’t say it doesn’t exist, but it’s not blatantly obvious like some cars. I wouldn’t worry to much about it.

    Check out @Exracer2 and @bshammer0 threads about audio upgrades. Lots of good install info there
     
    bshammer0 and TAC1[OP] like this.
  5. Nov 6, 2018 at 5:42 AM
    #5
    destin_meeks

    destin_meeks I used to fix people's crappy stereos

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    Also, I would splurge the extra cash and do components up front. Having your tweeter up top makes a world of difference rather than playing into your ankles.
     
    TAC1[OP] likes this.
  6. Nov 6, 2018 at 5:57 AM
    #6
    TAC1

    TAC1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I have 3.5” power bass speakers in place of the factory tweeters. That alone made an improvement.

    I’ve also heard that the bass can be less but I hope that’s not ny case. Even if the bass does not increase I’m fine (the oem speakers make decent bass for what they are) but the total volune is my biggest issue. Driving at 65 MPH and have the volume at 62 Just to hear it “loud” is ridiculous.

    Kicker Key? Wasn’t aware of that one. I love Kicker! I’ll look into info in that. I Have used Kicker for years. My previous “08 Tacoma had a 10” sub and a 300W amp. 5 years and not one issue. Previous vehicle (SUV) had Kicker door speakers. Loved them.

    Woth this truck I am using all of my soace behind the seats so I am REALLY hoping to not have to use a sub.

    PS. What is a calibration mic?
     
  7. Nov 6, 2018 at 7:55 AM
    #7
    destin_meeks

    destin_meeks I used to fix people's crappy stereos

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    It as a microphone that you place on the drivers headrest. It plugs into that specific amp. You play a pink noise track (they have links to download one) and it plays a series of tones and then auto-tunes using a 40-band EQ. This greatly improves the sound of the factory radio because it cleans up the fairly bad signal the radio puts out. Absolutely worth it over the alpine amp for those keeping factory radios
     
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  8. Nov 6, 2018 at 8:41 AM
    #8
    TAC1

    TAC1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Interesting! Never knew that existed. After my last post I loaded up my 525 songs into MP3Gain and raised the decibels on all of them then loaded up to my USB. I then played them in my truck and WOW! That’s the volume I was looking for! I should point out that my radio volume is good but I play my MP3 songs 90% of the time.

    The 3.5” speakers (which replaced the OEM tweeters) sound awesome. After that and with what I have read here so far I decided to reorganize my recovery gear and tools and found that I can fit a sub box behind the left rear seat for a 10” sub. A box like the one that ********* sells. Don’t know if anyone else sells that box.

    Now I’m not sure if I should:

    A) Return the Rockford Fosgate door speakers to Crutchfield (I haven’t installed them yet), add a 300W Kicker amp (under drivers seat) and 10” Kicker sub. This was the set up my’08 had but a different box which was wider and sat on the passenger side.

    B) Install the Rockford Fosgate speakers, run them off the OEM HU power, and add the above mentioned sub and amp.

    My worry is that the Rockford Fosgates would not sound as good as the OEM speakers since I will only use radio power for those.

    I won’t care about ANY bass from the door speakers since I will have the sub. But will the RF’s sound better than the OEM speakers?

    Sorry to be all over the place but seeing that now I can add fit a sub enclosure makes a big difference in my decision.

    Thank you
     
  9. Nov 6, 2018 at 9:26 AM
    #9
    Exracer2

    Exracer2 Well-Known Member

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    BRO grille, KICKER speakers, Key amp, Hideaway sub
    I did the Kicker CS series speakers, the Subaru plug and play tweeter, Kicker Hideaway powered sub and finally the Kicker Key 180.4 “brick” amp (as @destin_meeks calls them).

    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-premium-upgrade-kicker-key-180-4-amp.541375/

    I will preface everything by saying I am NOT a high end audiophile. I wanted a better sound and more power. I would classify my system configuration as budget but with a huge improvement in sound and power. Those with high end expectations may be disappointed with this setup. For the rest of us I really couldn’t ask for much more. I would suggest talking further with @destin_meeks if you need comparative assessment as my experience in higher end systems is lacking.
     
    TAC1[OP] likes this.
  10. Nov 6, 2018 at 4:08 PM
    #10
    destin_meeks

    destin_meeks I used to fix people's crappy stereos

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    You will still get a gain in clarity with the rockfords even running on the factory head unit. No real gain in volume, and possible loss in bass. But clarity will be noticeable.

    Worth the price of them? That’s up to you.

    I would install them, add your sub, and see how you like it.

    If you want more, add the Kicker Key amp to your door speakers. Good price point, easy install. If you do the work yourself, you’ll spend $220 if you already own a soldering iron or a pair of crimpers.

    Or you may be perfectly satisfied with no amp. That’s up to your ears and your expectations.
     
    TAC1[OP] likes this.
  11. Nov 6, 2018 at 4:46 PM
    #11
    TAC1

    TAC1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thank you for your time and advice. Looks like I will go the route that you suggested. :thumbsup:
     
  12. Nov 6, 2018 at 4:51 PM
    #12
    Exracer2

    Exracer2 Well-Known Member

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    I agree with @destin_meeks regarding clarity 100%. In my personal opinion you can run with no amp provided you listen at moderate levels and don’t try to crank it and rock out. If you like to crank it from time to time it will get reasonably loud but at a level comparable to stock everything levels.

    Once I added the Key amp I could run a much higher volume but with still with increased clarity. Basically a lot more volume and clarity vs no amp but if I tried to turn the no amp system up (higher head unit volume numbers) it hurt my ears. So the same “true” volume was easier on the ears than having to crank the no amp system to get the same “loudness”. I hope what I am saying makes sense.
     
    TAC1[OP] likes this.
  13. Nov 6, 2018 at 6:25 PM
    #13
    TAC1

    TAC1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I had to read it a couple of times but yes. HAHAHA. Just kidding & yes, that makes perfect sense.
     

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