TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

I agree the flywheel would have been toast if that was the case. There were no cracks either to the flywheel. The back side of the URD clutch disk was fine.

So those fins I was referring to are actually called diaphragm springs. And they were bulging out. There is a lot of mechanical forces at play with clutches to say the least. But this video helps. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=pqF-aBtTBnY

 

Found a possible alternator pulley candidate.

45.5mm OD
vs
52.0mm OD (stock)

Most of the ones I’ve found are 48mm OD, and painted black. This one is a tiny bit smaller for moar powah.

Seller said it should fit, but it may need spacers to get the correct alignment with the other pulleys (spacers included). This one was a twice the price of the others I found, but it’s really shiny. If it fits, I may need to upgrade to a matching LTR coolant reservoir.

 

Don’t forget to upgrade your wiring by doing the big 3. If you don’t, there’s a 120amp (FJ) fuse on the alternator circuit. Obviously, voltage is regulated as well, so I think the best outcome would just be more amps available at a lower rpm provided you need them. Also you’ll probably need to look at your belt size to make sure you don’t need to go down a size.

 

Extra ribs are no problem I assume?

 

Way ahead of you!

Belt and pulley are both 7 groove.

 

Nice find sir!

 

I need some help with why my supercharger tensioner pulley keeps snapping off. I just replaced this part a couple months ago. 2007 tacoma v6 with magnuson and 2.85 pulley. Any ideas would be appreciated.

 

Got any Pictures?

 

The part where you put the breaker bar in so you can release the supercharger belt, it broke that arm off. Twice this has happened in 6 months. $250 for new one plus you have to wait at least a week to have it shipped from toyota in California to Virginia where I live.

 

If you read some of the most recent postings in this thread, there has been a lot discussed on tensioners. You can purchase less expensive and more robust options that are readily available on the market. Steeda makes a reinforced stock tensioner for around $150. My biggest question is if you have something causing this or if it is a material defect (which has actually been seen multiple times). Do you know what belt model you're running? Is it the stock size?

Edit: It's covered on page 1 OP


Thanks,
D

 

Stock size belt. I do have a little power steering leak at the high pressure line. I dont know if that would do anything or not. What do you think could cause something like this. Thank you for responding back. You think it's ok to drive as long as dont get into it.

 

My first one broke the same way. Dealership was trying to remove it and broke it at the 1/2" breaker bar opening. my second one snapped while driving.

 

did you put the original one back on or go with one of the tensioner listed at the beginning of this post.

 

I can only b.s so many stories to my wife why I had to spend 200 plus on another item for my truck.

 

original. both were replaced under warranty. If it happens again tho.. I'll be going a different route. either one of the tensioners listed, or make my own billet arm.

 

We would need to see pictures of the actual failure location, not just the thermostat housing

But seriously, it could be a lot of different reasons. If you're on the stock belt size with a smaller pulley, I would seriously doubt that it is an over tensioning situation, which really only would leave a tensioner defect. A few guys have had that. Personally I would drive the truck home and park it. I don't know that I'd want to do a whole lotta driving on it.

 

Do you think it's ok to drive around still for day or two.

 

here is a better few

 

Yep, same point as others. I have to wonder if they didn't get a bad batch of castings. I would call Magnuson and see if they can help you out on this. They have to know this is becoming more common.

https://www.magnusonsuperchargers.com/

 

Looks similar to where mine broke....don't order one through Toyota, you'll just overpay for it. You can get the same tensioner on Amazon for $35 (its listed at the bottom of this page), you just need to swap the old pulley onto it. However, as mentioned there are other options for a stronger tensioner discussed in this forum