Long Travel BS Thread

Here's what I have on my phone now.

Not the best close up, but my shock tabs straddle the outer ubolt and the lower rod end sits right above the outside edge of the leaf pack.

That's at least a starting reference for you to know you're in the ballpark. I can try to get more pics tomorrow if you want

 

Your spring perch is backwards. Opening should be forward to accept one of the lower shock mount tabs.

The weight of the axle should be more than enough to droop the pack out, even assembled.

You don’t want the shackle to rotate so far forward that it makes contact with the hanger. Looks like you’re in that ballpark, so not much more to go there. Also, the drive shaft will limit droop if still connected. Needs to be shortened around 1.25” if you followed Tim’s hanger measurements.

I’ve never seen that prefabbed cage up close, but if your saying you have a total of 6” of unused shock travel that’s a lot. I see that even at full droop you have a significant shock angle so that may be adding a lot to your potential travel numbers. What is you shock angle at both bump and droop?

Someone correct my math if I’m wrong, but you can see how much added wheel travel you have by multiplying your measured shock travel used by the angle and sin.

Mine is set up to have 7 degrees forward at full comp and 0 degrees droop. So I’ve added very little to shock travel (long bed).

 

So I made the mistake of going midtravel when I should have gone long travel in the rear...
I need some advice on what I should do to get 16" or more of travel. I currently have a TC spring under with shock relocation and it bucks like crazy, I think the 539/540 deavers are just too stiff even with two leafs removed.

I was thinking of getting the dmz kit but dont know where to get a pre fabbed bed cage or what to do about fabbing my own. (I want to cut the bed as little as possible)

Also if you want my tc kit its all for sale

 

This was fun to see on the drive home last night . Im going to pick up a scan tool and check it out after work. Hopefully it's something simple like just a spark plug or coil pack.

https://youtu.be/-T6-YKKagyY

 

DMZ has a prefabbed bed cage for their kit, and their kit is very good. Minimal bed cutting to get the shocks through.

 

Something is really fucked if you're only getting 10" of vertical axle travel. That's less than my SOA setup gets...

You can use this to figure out how the shock angle affects available travel, but 20 degrees on a 16" shock means you get 15" of axle travel. https://www.pagetutor.com/trigcalc/trig.html

 

@Hawk373 So I had a long day yesterday so I turned into a dumbass, I remembered when I got home I had the other side of the axle on a jack stand! I’m sure that’s was messing up my numbers. Also yes I know I burned the perches in backwards, I had no instructions and went of other people’s pics. I talked to Tim about it. I can work around it.
Thanks for the responses man! The help is appreciated!

 

Looks great man! Thank you!

 

My perches are backward too. No big deal, just had to grind down the inner shock tab to sit flush against it

 

Thanks. Note that I have shortened my bumps to 2" stroke. Not sure what you are planning on running, but there is no need for 4" stroke with this kit. Might as well shorten them now if that's what you have

 

I have 2” bumps. and a short bed so I should be good with that drive shaft length from what I read... I hope...

 

Should be good. That's my setup and I didn't have to do anything. So long as you're 4x4 that is. I believe even with short bed, the 2wd need a slip yolk added

 

Yeah, I’ve seen it happen to three people lately. I was just hoping that didn’t lead him to putting the tabs too far outboard.

@Radarninja I referenced @travdawg thread a lot when I questioned myself. https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2011-tacoma-frankthe4seaterwhoopeater.468318/

 

What do you guys think?

 

Lower the shock tabs and raise your bumps to where the axle is almost hitting the frame. Looks like you can get another 2" of uptravel.

 

Okay I'll lower them down a bit
Should I not be concerned with the negative arch in the springs when setting bump?
I noticed you guys had your bumps way up at frame.

 

They only will go negative close to full bump, which ideally you won't be at constantly, just hard hits and jumps. Talking to Tim, it won't affect the springs to go slightly negative. I think mine bump with the axle 1" from the frame. Uptravel is your friend, get as much of it as you can

 

Moved shit

 

Why are you only lifting one side of the axle to check bump travel? You should be doing both at the same time.

 

I cant seem to jack it up high enough when I do both sides at same time