New member! 14' taco lift project? Advise?

What's up everybody? My name is Matt. I'm new to the forum, kinda always been a reader though. I'm about to start a small-ish project on my 14' Tacoma v6 double cab TRD offroad 6spd manual(daily driver). First off, I wanna say Im not into die hard rock crawling, long travel, or anything major (wish I could be but I'm not rich). I hunt, fish, camp and ride decent mountain trails here in northeast Tennessee and southwest Virginia. Don't really wanna end up driving a log wagon and I definitely appreciate a smooth ride but I'm ok with the way well built lifted trucks drive. I've done butt loads of research and done some smaller lifts before on other trucks and I wanna get it right and just looking for a little input/advice. That being said... here's what I wanna do so far.....

-6" BDS fox coilover lift (with rear db's: I know they aren't famous but my capability needs aren't that high)
- 18x9 fuel assault wheels(mild offset/backspacing) with 35x12.50r18 toyo open country AT2
- Re-gear diffs to 4.56 Yukon gears. Kit comes with new electronic lock solenoid etc...Currently at stock 3.73s (reputable shop installed)
- quite a few other cosmetic upgrades


OK, a few other random questions that I've researched....

- Anybody out there run a setup like this with a 6spd manual?? Any clutch issues? Ever upgraded??
- running a 6" lift/setup like this, is it best to upgrade to a one piece drive shaft?? Do most people do this with 6"?
- what kind of abuse can the front stock axles take? Anybody upgraded?
- are trac bars actually useful?
- i don't like massively offset wheels but what is best offset to go with to avoid most if not all the rubbing that comes with 35" tires then having to trim and beat??? Best thing to do to completely alleviate all that notorious damn scrubbing with 6in lift and 35s????

Wish I had time to do all the suspension work myself but most will be done by a shop(1,000+ overtime hours a year doesn't allow too much extra time). Any advise is appreciated. Also, any interjections to any other add on modifications/ideas to do during this project while she's tore apart is cool too.

 

OK, a few other random questions that I've researched....

- Anybody out there run a setup like this with a 6spd manual?? Any clutch issues? Ever upgraded??
- running a 6" lift/setup like this, is it best to upgrade to a one piece drive shaft?? Do most people do this with 6"? Most just mall crawl so no. I would think a 1 piece with a good Double cardon joint and reset your diff pinion angle would be a whole lot better than your stock one. I mean people go to these with just a 3" lift
- what kind of abuse can the front stock axles take? Anybody upgraded? They can take a hell of a lot of abuse. I don't get the full gist of this question
- are trac bars actually useful? They can be again what is your thought process on this?
- i don't like massively offset wheels but what is best offset to go with to avoid most if not all the rubbing that comes with 35" tires then having to trim and beat??? Best thing to do to completely alleviate all that notorious damn scrubbing with 6in lift and 35s???? 6in lift and 35s don't really rub nearly as much as on a 3" suspension lift. There are a few people that are around that run 35s go in the DB lift section and look. Take a look at those guys build threads.

 

Welcome to Tacoma World, Matt!

- Anybody out there run a setup like this with a 6spd manual?? Any clutch issues? Ever upgraded??

I think there was an issue with the throw out bearing from the factory. Might want to check on that. Otherwise there are plenty of people here who have standard transmission Tacomas and are lifted or supercharged. As long as you aren't ridiculous with your shifting or ride the clutch into oblivion, your transmission will be fine.

- running a 6" lift/setup like this, is it best to upgrade to a one piece drive shaft?? Do most people do this with 6"?

@ovrlndkull kinda hit the nail on the head. If the driftshaft doesn't vibrate post lift, don't worry about it. Basically, your driveshaft starts to vibrate when the angles of your drivetrain are too far out of tolerance. There are a couple of threads on TW that show how to measure your angles pre-lift (this is important) so that if you do experience driveshaft vibration, you know what angles your drive shaft needs to be to eliminate the vibration. It's a little more work but well worth avoiding the frustration.

- what kind of abuse can the front stock axles take? Anybody upgraded?

The CV axles? OEM are fine as long as you don't plow into a rock at 80mph.

- are trac bars actually useful?

Depends on how they're built and connected. Traction bars are helpful in eliminating axle wrap, but I'd question their utility for any sort of moderate to serious offroading.

- i don't like massively offset wheels but what is best offset to go with to avoid most if not all the rubbing that comes with 35" tires then having to trim and beat??? Best thing to do to completely alleviate all that notorious damn scrubbing with 6in lift and 35s????

According to BDS' website:

35 x 12.50 w/18 x 9 and 4.5" Max. back spacing
w/20 x 9 and 4.5" Max. back spacing
*Trimming may be required*

As I read it, if you go with the 18x9 you shouldn't have to trim, or any trimming necessary will be minimal. Larger than that you will. Best bet is to call BDS and verify.

 

Welcome to TW!!

 

Welcome aboard

 

Welcone to tw. Dont thonk u need a 6 inch lift to fit 35. Seen others do it. And yes alot of lifted mt 2nd gens on here. Check out manual transmission fan club. Or @EatSleepTacos has a build thread thats pretty cool. I would recomend talking to @HeadStrong Off-Road they are awsome to deal with.

 

Thanks guys, I appreciate all the input!

 

Trac bars can be very helpful in offroad applications. My first gen is going to get one here soon since I desperately need one. Axle wrap sucks and limits my truck a lot right now.

 

Welcome to TW!!

 

my 6 inch lift has slight vibes on take off only. i did modify the center support bearing by installing the yellow one in the linked thread.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/carrier-bearing…-alternatives-and-solutions.419706/

i was not a fan of hacking up my fenders in order to clear 35's on a 3 inch lift so i went 6 inch..

it has been wheeled hard once with no issues. lockers=awesome!

 

Im running stock wheels with 2 or 2.5 inch spacers, i forget. no rubbing cab mount, spindle, or control arms.

 

@Taylorbarton1 If you don't mind me asking, what are you running in the rear? Dbs? I'm thinking of running leafpacks now with upgrade fox 2.0 Reservoir. What's the best alternative to DB's in the rear on the 6" lift? Will it make a huge difference to run leaf packs instead of dbs offroad?

 

@Taylorbarton1 what kind of front locker setup did you do? I'd love to incorporate that on the regear job. Front lockers are awesome offroad. From stock, my TRD OR has rear electric lock and A-trac system.

 

There is no drop bracket for the rear. You gain your lift either by leaf springs, shackle flip with longer shackles, or blocks. You want to pair your shock length appropriately for the amount of suspension travel. Too short and it will limit down travel or droop too long and you'll bottom the shock out during up travel. Both can damage the shocks.

 

Sorry my bad, wrong terminology. I was attempting to refer to the blocks as "DB".

 

The a track is basically a locker.

rear the truck has stock leaf pack with the block that came with the kit plus. AAL. To make up for the saggy factory leaf pack.

 

Welcome to TacomaWorld, I'll give you fair warning before you start, people say cigarettes are addictive, no comparison to how addictive modding your truck will become, lol!

Just my experience, went from 3" lift, ( small normal vibrations) to 7" lift, vibrations were so bad I parked it and had one piece aluminum driveshaft made. Problem solved. Look at it like this, if you pay a shop to do the work, a one piece driveshaft is alot cheaper than paying several hundred dollars every few years for a new carrier bearing. Plus your time dicking around with spacers and shims... Etc... My 4" aluminum one piece was $650 custom made at local shop.

Just my $0.02 worth.

 

Lol, 35's with 3" lift, yes it's been done before after chopping frame and fenders.With 33x11.50 with 3" coil lift, still had to swap to Trail Team wheels not to rub UCA's. To clear 35x12.8 tires had to go to 7" lift.

 

Atrac is nothing like a locker. It can somewhat work like one but not completely. There is a big difference, please don't spread information like this as it creates people thinking they have something they don't.