Long Travel BS Thread

I don’t really know.
Should I set to use the maximum amount of shaft at full bump? As in the is mostly compressed.
Then there seems to be a lot of unused shaft at full droop.
I wasn’t sure so I went in the middle
I can raise the shock mounts for sure.
Also I did move the bumps up more

 

Did you buy 16’s?

 

I got the axle 1/2” from the frame and set my bumps off of that position. I welded some falsework tabs just to hold them in place, then built the mounting structure around that.

 

Yes

 

usually when i setup foxes like that i leave a 1/4” of shaft showing fullbump that rubber bump on the shaft can compress some if worst case it needed to.

 

I'm currently having some woes with that kit, and apparently I'm not the only one with some... Issues...

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/lets-talk-rear-lt.484437/page-12#post-18891287

 

The other guys issues are 100% installer error

 

Would ya look at all that up travel

 

Why did you have to point that out? Seen this build and didn't notice before. -1 on the cool factor now

 

I will be doing it with 2 bikes.trucks doesn't have a hitch unfortunately but figured putting one like that would make the truck to long.(once I put something similar)

I want to put like a removable bar above the fuel cell and remove the front wheels( wife's bike is a 80 and I'll have a 110 just to cruise around) and attach a mount like a roof rack for a car idea something like this idea


Works in my head just will have to see if I can make it happen haha

 

Typical sema build. Not a fan on how wide front end is either, still kinda cool

 

I was hoping the body would be left patina'd

 

Push that thing up so your axle is bout to hit the frame, I think I put my axle at a 1/4” away from the frame at full bump and had 1/4”of shock shaft showing

 

that truck is actually on an tundra frame i think. they used their tundra race kit in the front.

 

Question for suspension gurus: When you set up shock mounts do you set max allowable link/arm travel to max allowable shock travel then bump/strap it less or do you set max link/arm travel to less than max shock travel, and then still bump/strap less? Seems like the difference would be an additional safety measure but is there any performance trade off?

 

Ok gent's its that time, Went to get an alignment today, one cam bolt is mostly stripped, and my tie rods are completely closed(threaded in?), the Manager at the alignment place told me I would need shorter tie rods.

Any reviews on the SPC cam bolt replacements? And advice on the tie rod issue. Ended up with good numbers, but steering wheel is clocked at about 1030. I told him I'd rather have proper wear on the tires than a straight steering wheel for now. Just getting the truck prepped up for Pismo in December.

Idea's are possibly cut the tie rods shorter or see if they can be rethreaded farther up. Replace all the cam bolts while im down there. Maybe with new cams in place they won't need more tie rod...unsure. Hoping those camburg 4x4 fabbed spindles release soon, might switch to heimed steering at the point.

 

@ilubtimmyhos used SPC cam bolts recently when we replaced his stock LCAs if I'm remember right. They got the job done but didn't seem as stout as the stock hardware I bought to replace my cam bolts with. SPC is probably a lot cheaper though, since I think it was about $200 for a set of Toyota cam bolts from one of the online OE part websites.

 

I'd rather go with something reliable that works well than cheapest price. If I have to drop some cash on OEM cam bolts, so be it.

 

i see things like this, and i think i built my fj40 wrong lol