Turbo BS Thread

Yeah in this or another of the same video someone commented that it was a 2tr with land cruiser axles

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XDE9F5TDNfI

owner commented on the video. toyota guts in a sidekick.

 

Also have all this info on turbo 2tr
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=48380.120

 

God I love the sound of that engine lol

 

I'm attempting to set-up Cruise on the Haltech.

With the vehicle off, I measure resistance across the stalk, when activating the option, as:
At Rest:795 ohm
Main (enable/disable): 1.5 ohm
+ Res: 186.7 ohm
- Set: 356.6 ohm
CANCEL: 535.2 ohm

With the key in the Run position:
At Rest: OPEN
Main: 25.9 ohm
+ Res: 17.6 ohm
- Set: OPEN
CANCEL: OPEN

I figured something is opening the circuit (within the stalk?) to deny activating cruise. I thought maybe it is the ecu's way of disabling cruise under the minimum speed limit, so I measured resistance doing 35mph- STILL OPEN

Haltech thought it was best to configure cruise with Voltage input, vice resistance. Issue above doesn't allow ESP to 'Calibrate' the voltage for the three open circuits.

I'm stumped and very frustrated, I've spent 2 days trying to figure this out. Any ideas?

 

And the idea of something within the stalk opening the circuit doesn't hold water because there's only 2 wires

 

Maybe get ahold of a ford falcon cruise control diagram and compare and modify. Might have to bypass the ECU entirely

 

Something is going on with the Tacoma, outside of the diagram. There's only a few unassigned pins remaining and none output voltage.

 

In case anyone is interested...

 

Nearly there.....

 

OK, so ground is denied after entering the junction- so I removed the pin and ground directly... everything is gtg

 

BAM! Thanks for all of the leg work. Now to tinker, you genius!

 

@Hacktacular

 

Pretty crazy looking in through the flange seeing all the cuts! Nice work

 

Well, there goes Christmas funds for the kids! Sorry kids, not really

Assume I'll need to contact them to see what works on the 2TR?

 

If I were doing this for prototyping, to then be mass-produced, the pie cuts made for a super simple and rapid routing. Within translate into having angles necessary 4 mass production and improved efficiency in time, because of less time being spent on welds. I was able to throw the first few bins together and maybe an hour.

 

LOL..
You can basically make a Megasquirt work on anything you want. It's just having the wiring diagrams for your vehicle and figuring out some of the ins and out and whathaveyou's of making it function for your application.

 

And this is why I'm here, on TW. I don't know shit lol

Maybe I'll go the DIY route then. I like to solder.

 

It looks intimidating at first because there are so many wires in order to work for multiple applications. Once you figure out what you need, you see that it's only around 15 or so wires that you use. Here's a list of what I wired into mine for an example (copy and pasted from my build page):

Megasquirt = Tacoma wire naming system
------------------------------------------------
**Red-12V+ = B+ E5 Pin 12 White/Red
Light Blue-TPS = VTA E7 Pin 10 Yellow
Gray-VREF = VC E7 Pin 1 Green/Yellow
**Black-VR- = NE- E6 Pin 6 Green (VR+, VR-, are in a shielded cable)
**White-VR+= NE E6 Pin 12 Red
Shielded ground = not connected
Coolant temp = THW E7 Pin 4 Green/Red
Air Temp = THA E7 Pin 3 Yellow/Green

**Runs to both MS and Stock ECU

MS3X Harness = Tacoma wire naming system
---------------------------------------------------
Injector A = #10 E8 Pin 12 White/Red
Injector B = #20 E8 Pin 11 White
Injector C = #30 E8 Pin 10 Red
Injector D = #40 E8 Pin 9 Red/Blue
Pin 9 Idle valve = RSO E8 Pin 7 Black/Red
Pin 27 VVT = RSC E8 Pin 6 Black
Spark A = IGT1 Cyl 1&4 E8 pin 23 Black/Blue
Spark B = IGT2 Cyl 2&3 E8 Pin 22 Brown/Yellow


After that, it's figuring out what your setting need to be (fuel, ignition, idle, etc.). Without proper settings, the wiring means nothing and vise versa. I learned that with my idle issues that were fixed by just changing a couple of my settings.

 

Not so fast. The stock ECU sends 10v, max input is 5v Gotta add a resistor to get those numbers below 5v.