TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

The intake size is EVERYTHING for our trucks. The larger the size we can run the less knock is present during throttle. As for me, I need the largest possible so I'd like to do a large to small style if possible. The stock airbox will have to strictly be for smog as bad a restriction as it is.

 

Why don’t you just slap the eo sticker that came with the Toyota air filter (supercharger kit) on an AFE box with a coupe lid? Looks factory

 

Knock and lean conditions are the result of too much air to fuel. So are you saying the stock box is giving you too much air? Or just an unbalanced tune?

If the stock intake was a restriction, then you’d be running rich, assuming the ecu didn’t trim accordingly. Regardless what the intake allows through, the maf should be measuring, and ecu compensating. If your afr’s are outta whack when changing intakes, the maf’s reading are probably skewed. The true test of the intake would be to look at the grams/sec that the maf reads and compare them between intakes at similar load and rpm’s.

 

That is correct. My bad.

 

Thank you!

 

The maf is calibrated for a 3" opening. If you put it in a larger opening then it will "see" less air and force a lean condition.

 

How does a restriction correlate to a lean mixture?

 

I don’t think it will...

 

I don’t know why I haven’t had this fabled issue.

 

You're Canadian exemption

 

It's all the snow stuck in my filter.

 

Sure is hard to get the supercharger belt off with all this extra room.

#electricfanproblems

 

@12TRDTacoma , if you’re running lean after installing an intake with more restrictions, my first thought gravitates to a vacuum leak. That would allow unmetered air to affect the way the engine runs and give error codes. Might be worth evaluating.

 

I don't care what the rationality is here or how correct you guys might be. Engine knock > proper engine theory of operation.

 

No but really, I am not willing to gather any data at this point with the stock airbox in the configuration I have because the knock is that ridiculous right now and I do not want to blow up my engine just so I can collect some airflow data. All I can tell you is that it makes that much of a difference when switching out to a properly constructed intake. Perhaps it is because like you said @DocME that the stock airbox is just unbalanced.

 

This will work for years 05-11. Trd never had an approved system for the 12-15. So I am SOL on this as well. Swapping the stock box isn’t that big of a deal though.

 

Have you looked into the dual vvti fj/4runner 4.0 intakes? I think they are a straighter design. I know someone on this forum posted it. Let me know if you want me to find the thread

 

You would think so, but there is nothing other than tube and air cleaner box in the setup. Both of which are mostly before the MAF itself. The only thing that goes after the MAF is the opening you bolt up to the TB and I know all those connections are tight. I may just swap to the 2.5 and retry a quick run. Worst comes to worst I'll do a smoke test and check to see if any vacuum leaks indeed do exist.

I hate you. Lol. LOOK AT ALL THAT SPACE!

Now that I found all the bolts for the setup I am more than willing to swap intakes now.

 

You know which one I like in design currently is the AFe Momentum ones. Those look.

https://afepower.com/afe-power-54-76012-momentum-gt-pro-5r-cold-air-intake-system

 

You actually can run a 3.5” or 4”, as long as it tapers back into the 3” where the Maf sits. You can use 2 silicone reducers; before and after the maf. I had an Injen air Intake on a previous vehicle that was 3” and tapers to a 2.5” to accommodate the maf and then back to 3”.

My URD MK1 Kit came with a built in TCAI and yes the P0101 was a common code that came up. With a scan gauge it was too easy to just check the code and reset. But if you didn’t like it, the best way is to install the Injen heat shield which I would also use for splashing in the mud.

I currently have a POS K and N “CAI” that the old owner tossed in with the SC, and where the intake sits, the heat shield box thing is hardly sealed off so I constantly see +5 IAT vs ambient and can raise +10-15 when idling. I have some 3” elbows and pipe on the way so I can build my rendition of the URD TCAI. The filter won’t be covering the heat exchanger and the maf will be moved further back downstream.