Best Body Lift Kit

If anything the only body lift I would get is the one inch from toytec which I really am considering myself cause of some little rubbing issues

 

Yes this is where i am with my 5100 i want just a bit more

 

only one i like (and installed) is the daystar kit. it isnt just adding extra spacers on stock mounts. it replaces the whole mount with ones that have 1" lift built in. since its a whole kit too they use bolts that are quite a bit larger that more than make up for the extra leverage on the mounts. this kit costs quite a bit more though.

 

I know this thread is a bit dated, but I just cam across it while researching something else, and thought I'd throw my two cents in. I have an OME (700lbs coils) lift with a 1" body lift (4crawler). Prior to my current set of badass 255/80/17 Cooper ST Maxx I had 285/75/17 Duratracs and would rub while flexing (never got around to the CMC). IMO, by staying with the 1", you don't mess with the geometry of the suspension, or the ride quality and get some clearance back; I do some moderate wheeling and haven't had any issues so far. I would say that I would never consider going higher and you can barely even tell that I have it. I also replaced the cab and radiator mounts with the polymer bushings and that, along with the OME suspension has done wonders to ride quality.

As others have said to go for a high quality suspension lift, and I totally agree. I just added the body lift for a bit more clearance.

 

body lifts are for..................mall crawlers?

 

Have you seen some of the speed bumps in the parking lots lately? Their big man....

 

My truck came with a 2" body lift. Just looks like basic aluminum pucks. I was thinking of taking it out but the rear shock hoop (4 link suspension) would interfere with the wheel well. I would either have to cut up my bed (not interested) or cut out the shock hoops and weld in some that are slightly smaller (also not going to happen). Its definitely not the way i would have built it but Pretty sure im just going to live with it at this point.

Id suggest just saving your money for some coil overs and bigger leafs for the rear. Its a lot more espensive but youlll have a way better ride and more capability offroad to actually take advantage of bigger tires

 

I put a 1” body on mine from an older 3rd gen Toyota truck. Had to round the edges of the pucks to make it fit snug but was under $100 for everything and works perfect.

 

4Crawler makes a decent body lift with heavy duty hardware. Whatever you end up doing, dont go over 1" body lift. Im running a 1.5" 4crawler and it was a nightmare to install and is still causing me issues due to the steering extension needed after 1" of body lift. The extra 0.5" I gained was not worth it and I would definitely of done the 1" if I had of known any better.

Daystar makes a decent 3" body lift but in my opinion, 3" of body lift makes the truck look really weird. 1" body lift is not even noticeable and will help you clear larger tires without cutting the fender lining/bumper when combining it with a suspension lift.

As most of the other guys are saying, youre probably better off doing a suspension lift before you do a body lift, but body lifts are great to squeeze a little bit of extra lift once youve done a good suspension lift. Just as I said, dont do over a 1" BL.. its just not worth the headache

 

Here is 4 crawlers link
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/ToyotaTacoma.shtml

 

I almost went with the 1.5", but at the last minute I just decided to go with 1" specifically because of the steering linkage issue. After reading your post, I'm glad I went the 1" route. Have not had any issues since install, and like you said, you can't even notice it unless you're looking.

 

Only reason I went with 1.5 is because Roger (4crawler owner) said I may be able to do 1.5 with no extension. Its extremely sketchy with no extension, theres only maybe 0.25" of steering shaft in the coupler. So I did it the hard way and drilled out my steering shaft and put the extension in. But the extension he sent me did not fit properly and did not line up with the holes, so I had to drill it out slightly bigger and modify it, it still didnt fit all that well and now I have a slight amount of play in my upper steering shaft because of the way its bolted into the lower shaft. Super annoying.. I havent had any time to deal with it recently, but will eventually be attempting to either make a brand new extension from scratch, or will be welding an extension onto the steering shaft itself instead of using a block extension spacer.

PITA.

Cant even notice a 0.5" difference lol. What a headache for such little gain. Oh well

 

Oh, man, that does sound like a PITA. I was sketched out with the 1" and the space left over on the linkage at first, and have thought about getting an extension, but I tend to forget about it, lol. Good luck with getting sorted.

 

Haha, well, at least some people tried to be helpful instead of hating. I'm not a huge fan of Body Lifts in general for Jeeps or Toyotas since they tend to show too much frame, but I now find myself in the position of planning on adding a 2" BL to my truck. Why? Because I want to move my powertrain up 2" and flatter her belly...and by lucky coincidence, it will allow my to clear 35x13.50s without cutting or beating the shit out of my floorboards/firewall, which I was willing to do.

The way I see it, there are a lot of benefits to what I'm doing, although it's a lot more complicated than just your average body lift:

--The engine, transmission, T-case, and induction tube will sit further up out of the water (I'm in florida, there's no wheeling here that doesn't involve crossing water at some point).

--The belly will be flatter and less likely to get hung up on rocks or terrain.

--I'll clear 35s without tubbing and I might not even have to relocate my washer fluid reservoir.

--My rock sliders should hide the frame.

--I'll be able to mount my HC bumper when i have it made higher so I'll have a better departure angle.

--I'll have more clearance to raise my rear shock mounts so I can run 12" rear shocks (not that I need to right now, but I'm working on a solution to that problem that I'm hoping doesn't come down to linking the rear axle, although I would do that before I'd do Chevy 63s on a 1st Gen).

--I'll have a lot more clearance to work on things like pulling the starter, pulling the front diff, dropping the oil pan, reaching the oil filter...All sorts of benefits going on there.

With all the potential benefits, why not do it? Assuming, of course, you're not sitting on a goldmine and have the skills and cash necessary for doing an SAS, because, really that would be my first choice and it would give me all those benefits and more, but I don't see myself being able to afford to do one in my lifetime, so I just have to work with what I can.

The only downside I can see is that this will raise my center of gravity and maybe give me some stability issues which may result in tubbing the floor/firewall anyway when I add wheel spacers to widen the stance and recover some stability. But like I said, I was willing to do some tubbing anyway.

 

your still gona have to tub and cut fenders if you do anything other than street driving. maybe my tank is different but ive fully bumped out my 35s and i havent moved the windshield reservoir. some guys hit it on 33s (i have a 1" bl)

 

I'm currently running 3" OME coilovers and I'm running 33x13.50 Super Swamper LTBs with 3.5" BS. My fenders are already cut and I had to relocate my washer pump to keep the tires from grabbing it (my truck was missing the reservoir cover when I got it and since this was my first Tacoma, it took me a couple years before I even realized there was a cover that went over it, haha). They still tried to grab the wheel well liner (which was trimmed way back) from time to time, but that was before I figured out my LCA bushings were shot to hell. Now I'm running LCAs from an '01 T4R which have steering stops on them and I don't even rub the frame anymore when turned and stuffed. I was worried I'd notice the loss of agility with the steering stops, but I actually notice it on the road more than I did on the trail.

I figure with two more inches, unless I reduce the BS to widen the stance (using wheel spacers, which I'm also not a fan of), I'll clear the 35s, although I may start rubbing the frame again.

 

im running 2.25"bs

 

That sounds promising. With a 1.25" wheel spacer, I'd be out to 2.5" BS. Did you say you did tub your floorboards/firewall? I mean I guess you'd have to with 35s with 2.25" BS. How wide are your wheels and tires? My width of 13.50 on an 8" wheel is a bit wider than most people are running, which is why I had to cut my fenders (and my stock front bumper, but that's not an issue anymore).