Passenger door binding when closing

I have a 2016 double cab, and the passenger door is binding up just before it closes and then pops really loud just before is shuts. Now this is going to sound weird but when I roll the window down it does not do it. Any ideas......?

 

Had the exact same thing happen to me with my 2nd gen, window included. It'll only roll down about 4 inches until it gets caught up. The alignment of the track must have been affected by the binding door. No accidents or anything else that would have caused this.

What did you do?

 

Have you taken the door panel off to inspect the interior?

 

Shop thought it was the regulator at first, once they put on the new regulator they realized the striker had also come loose and bumped the track and regulator. All 3 need replaced

 

Sit in the truck, roll the window all the way down. Place your knee on the interior door panel and roll the window all the way up...feel the panel bulge out a bit? The interior panel is probably contacting a piece of interior trim and clicking as it moves past, but when the window is down, it doesn't push the panel out to make contact

 

Important: don’t roll down the window until you fix it as the window is in a bind and could break!

Same thing happened to me years ago on my 2008. The door check had become detached from the thin metal on the door panel to to which it was originally bolted. This caused the door to swing freely open and had no resistance when opened. It also caused the door check mechanism to travel into the door when the door was shut, such that it came into contact with the front window slide rail and bent it preventing the window from going all the way down.

To fix it, I ordered an aftermarket door check on eBay and since the thin metal had ripped where the two nuts attach, I had to turn the wire welder way down and weld it back to the door body. I also had to remove the door panel, and reshape the rail to make it operate correctly. Since the rail is bowed slightly from the factory to match the window glass, I ended up removing the rail from the opposite door so I could check the factory shape and bend it back to resemble the original bow. Looking back, it may have been easier just to order another driver side front window rail.

That first repair was years ago, and just a few months ago my thin weld became detached. I had to re-weld it and it’s working again.

A word of caution, try not to let your door open to the maximum extent, and if you do, do it gently. This is what weakens the metal where the check is attached and causes the failure.

Here’s a pic of the welded door check. I realize it’s not a pretty weld, but welding thin metal in that tight spot is almost impossible...especially for a welding amateur like myself.

Ryan

 

Good advice on not letting the door slam open.