Truck sucks down oil like a $2 wh........

With that kind of oil loss, I would expect that if it were rings or valves, your plugs would look a LOT worse. Those don't look bad at all as far as oil consumption goes.

Keep us posted! I would check rear main too. See if there's any oil on the torque converter. Any oil under the truck on the under carriage? Any oil spots on the tailgate???

I'm thinking leak but others more knowledgeable than me should chime in shortly.

 

My truck is manual. There is not external leak. Not even a seep.
I feel you on how clean the plugs are. There is some residue on the threads.
Maybe the gremlins are drinking the oil instead of breaking things. lol

 

Hate to say it but if your not leaking externally then its gotta be a pcv issue (which you've already tried), rings or valve stem seals.

Honestly, try some valve stem seals if you want, keep topping the oil off or look for a used engine

 

If this were a brand new truck going through a qt every 1500 miles they would tell you that it is within specs. and acceptable. Most vehicles today use far less than that, but it isn't necessarily a bad thing.

 

I used Royal Purple in my Mazdaspeed 6. It had a bad turbo and burned so much oil that the engine seized. Synthetics don't put out much if any smoke when they burn. You are definitely burning oil.

 

I like the muffin tin idea for parts removed storage. +5 pts


Will have to get one.

 

A quart for 1000-1500 miles is really not all that much oil. Its not enough to make the plugs black, and its not enough to make the exhaust smoke.
At 20 miles per gallon, that equates to 50-75 gallons of fuel, which puts it at a ratio of 500-750:1. I have a 2-stroke outboard motor with a mix ratio of 100:1, and it doesn't make any noticeable smoke, even on startup, and 2-stroke outboard motors don't have a catalytic converter to finish the burn.

If the problem is a piston ring problem, chances are that it would be the oil scraper ring. Problems with the oil scraper ring won't show up on a compression OR leak-down test. The problem could also be valve seals, maybe the replacement PCV valve was defective, who knows? The only thing you know is that if the oil isn't DRIPPING, then it must be BURNING, and the only possibility that is actually worth attempting is the PCV valve. I'd say give that one more attempt and if nothing changes, just suck it up.

If the problem is more complex than PCV valve, its probably NOT WORTH worrying about unless it gets a whole lot worse. Just consider how many quarts of oil you would have to burn through before it covers the cost of doing the work to the engine. If you hire the job out to a mechanic, and it costs you $1000, then you're looking at 100-500 quarts of oil (depending on how much you like to spend on oil), which puts you at 100,000 to 750,000 miles before the break-even point (100qt*1000mi/qt to 500qt*1500mi/qt).

If the problem was a whole lot worse, say 1 qt / 250 mi or worse, then I would start thinking about tearing into the engine, but not at 1 qt / 1000-1500 mi.

But if it makes you feel better, go ahead and diagnose it. At least knowing where the oil is going will help you get a better idea about how bad it has to get before its worth actually fixing.

 

so, it has been a minute since i started this. finally got my leak down tester fixed along with all of the other life had to offer. lol. performed leak down test. all cylinders were 2-3% leakage. now when i have the time i will do valve guide seals and hope for the best.

 

Thanks for following up.

 

i have replaced the valve guide seal on my truck. i have since put about 1200-1300 miles and oil consumption is not noticeable. so far so good. will check oil level at the first oil change and see whats up.