Positive camber on stock OR

I know you use the metric system in Canada, but in terms of camber we are talking in tenths of a degree and a straight line has 180 points in between. It is difficult to eyeball a difference 5 degrees, you would have to have superman vision to eyeball one degree. Take a look at protractor to get an idea of what 1 degree looks like. I'm sure it is an optical illusion, but you just can't eyeball an alignment.

 

Not true at all. I stare at angles for a living. I can see if stuff is slightly off. Meaning 1 degree. I'm also OCD

Plus, seems people notice this positive camber thing so it either really is positive camber or an optical illusion. I'll be asking the dealer to check it out tomorrow.

 

Degrees are degrees, there's no metric/imperial difference. 1 degree is small but when when the line is 33" tall you can see it .... the longer the line the easier to spot.

 

That was a joke that I am assuming you missed, eh. You simply cannot notice a 1 degree difference. It is not that significant and you do not have a solid reference point. If the human eye was that sharp you would never need a level.

 

Is the other part a joke too? Because it should be.

 

I trust my own feeling on the truck, and indeed the truck came with positive camber, but I just don't like the way it handle and the tires wear out too fast.

I would suggest max Caster and 0 to -0.5 camber if possible.

 

If you're used to looking at these things, it's very easy to see. But to see if you have positive or negative camber, the easiest way for these trucks is to get a few yards in front and sight down the side of the truck. You know that the rears are zero with a solid axle (barring some horrific overloading) and you'll be able to immediately see if both front and rear wheels are parallel. Use this same technique for the bicycle frames I've built - sight the down tube and head tube for parallelism before final brazing. Tack first then full silver solder. To know the exact angle of camber, you really do have to put it on a rack, but sighting will tell you a lot.

 

I know you want to have xray eyes, but it simply isn't possible. Start with the fact if you want to use a 33 as one leg of your triangle then you need to divide that in half. That puts you at 16.5". Then you need to consider that you don't have a straight line as a reference. You have a wheel along with a tire that alone has multiple angles. You are telling me that you can eyeball a 1 degree difference? You have to be out of your mind. I use a 4 foot level when setting beams because it is impossible to eyeball a 16 footer and you want me to believe that you spot a degree of camber. You are out of touch with reality.

Now let's not forget the most important part that you are missing in your eyeball alignment is the lack of turn plates. There is nothing to unbind the suspension unless you park on ice. I am assuming you have never done an alignment, but a critical part of being able to properly get measurements is freeing up the suspension.

Don't get wrong, I am not trying to call you our or embarrass you. I assume that you are really convinced that you have this ability, but I can promise you from having spent a fair amount of time in the shop that you don't. I would highly suggest you spend a little time there yourself before making statements that are not true.

 

I can't believe you called me out. I'm so embarrassed.

 

Don't be embarrassed. Wink wink. It's easy to see to me. 180 degrees the tire is upside down. 90 degrees it's laying flat on the ground. Ever drive a 10 percent grade .... pretty steep.

 

We also need to consider passenger weight and changes in the suspension geometry when the truck is underway.

 

Go full Stance Nation and camber it so much that you’re riding on the rims.

 

I was at the dealer few weeks ago and noticed ever truck had visible positive camber. Back when I bought my 16’ I’m pretty sure I would of noticed if all the trucks looked like that.

When I have my trucks aligned I tell them, the most caster with 0* camber and just slight toe. Works for everything and keeps those expensive tires wearing even.

 

You do realize that when you are driving these angles change, right? That is the reason the numbers are not all zero while static. Not to mention that camber isn't what causes your expensive tires to wear, it is toe that is the cause of tire wear. While I completely disagree with your ability to spot camber, it is really a moot point because even if you could, it would make no difference until your truck is on an alignment rack where your suspension is free.

 

Been doing this a long time bro. I don't know what you are trying to argue. You spend 99* of your time driving straight with static weight, that's when you want your shit dialed in. And yes, improper toe will shred your tires in no time much faster than camber. I agree that radial tires due to their design resist wear from varying camber setting. I've aligned many lifted truck in my driveway (mostly with solid front axles) using angle iron and a harbor freight angle finder, and have had great tire wear.

You can see it in their own promo pics.

 

yes, but as he said in an earlier post... you can’t see these angles and if you can your truck has serious issues. Guess every truck out of the dealership have serious issues

 

Camber? Doubt it...
My money is on negative toe.

 

Will let you know. Alignment Friday.

 

That is awesome bro. Please tell me how you are adjusting camber and caster on these solid front axles, bro. Even on IFS, unless you have a set of these - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...m_term=1100100889544&utm_content=All+Products you are guessing at best.

Obviously don't know what you are talking about so let me explain in a little detail. Your angles change when you are driving. You can't adjust your shit while you are driving so you have to adjust for those changes while it is sitting on a rack or in your case your driveway. You don't set toe to zero on a rear wheel drive because while being pushed from behind the front tires tend to open up or toe out. You adjust toe slightly positive so while you are driving and the tires open up from being pushed that toe goes to zero. That is how you get the best tire wear because you are not dragging your tires down the road.

Back to the original point, bro, you can't eyeball these specs. You asserted in your post that you had xray vision and could eyeball camber. I would love to know your explanation of how you are able to do that.

This post reminds me of the guy that came into the shop for an alignment check. I put it up on the rack and did the check. Toe was severely off so I called him in the shop to show him the specs. The guy got behind his truck, bent down, closed one eye and squinted with the other, held one hand out like a knife, held up his thumb with his other in line with his knife hand. He leaned back and forth in deep observation. He then went to the other side and repeated the process. Stood up and said to me "Nope, it looks straight on to me". I pulled it off the rack and sent him on his way. 3 months later he was back complaining of defective tires because the outside edges were roached.

 

You guys argue a lot.