4.0 6spd Manual URD Stage 3 Clutch, TOB Sleeve & Lightweight Flywheel Install Write-Up

Just recently replaced my clutch in my 2013 6spd 4.0 because it was slipping 8200 miles after adding a supercharger and other power adders. Decided to go with a URD stage 3 clutch, lightweight flywheel, & TOB sleeve/repair kit. Want to start out by giving a huge shout-out to @Athlaos for helping me whenever I had questions throughout the process. Couldn't have done this without you buddy!

Disclaimer: I am a backyard, youtube, do it yourself mechanic. I am not responsible for any damage done to your vehicle or injuries from following this guide.

What you need:

• Clutch pressure plate
• Flywheel (replacement is necessary if you don't want to get yours resurfaced)
• TOB (Toyota or URD sleeve with the bigger TOB to accommodate the sleeve)
• Flywheel bolts (must replace, I went with the ARP bolts that can be reused in the future)
• Pressure plate bolts (must replace, I went with the ARP bolts that can be reused in the future)
• 2.5ish quarts of
  $91 Red Line (50305) MT-90 75W-90 GL-4 Manual Transmission and Transaxle Lubricant (MTL) - 1 Gallon
  redline MT-90 or other GL-4 75w-90 trans fluid of your choice
• Pump mechanism to fill the trans (I used
  $10 CUSTOM ACCESSORIES Pennzoil 36671 Pennzoil Fluid Transfer Pump - Gallon
  this one w/ the gallon of redline)
• $12 Dynamic Tools D008717 3/8" Drive 6 Point Metric with 17mm Universal Joint Socket, Chrome Finish
  17mm swivel/u-joint socket
• $11 Dynamic Tools D008714 3/8" Drive 6 Point Metric with 14mm Universal Joint Socket, Chrome Finish
  14mm swivel/u-joint socket
• Swivel extensions (not necessary, but will make things easier)
• $64 BIG RED T46202 Torin Steel Jack Stands: 6 Ton (12000 lb) Capacity, Red, 1 Pair
  Jack stands
• OEMTOOLS 25240 1/2" Drive Impact Conversion Extension Set, 3-Piece
  3' extension 1/2" drive to 3/8" drive
• 22mm open end wrench (bought mine at home depot)
  
• $8 0.20 oz Loctite 209728 Loctite Threadlocker Blue 242
  Blue Loctite
• $8 Loctite Threadlocker Red 271 - Permanent Thread Lock Glue for Nuts, Bolts, & Fasteners, High Strength Screw Glue to Prevent Loosening & Corrosion - 6 ml, 1 Pack
  Red Loctite
• High temp grease (this is included w/ the URD TOB sleeve)
  
• WD-40 or other penetrating lubricant
  
• Can of brake cleaner
  
• Crow bar, or short piece of a 2x4
  
• Red or black RTV (to seal up the bottom of the shift seat)
  
• Bench vise (if you are going with the URD flywheel)
  
• Sandwich bags, pen, & note cards (to label all bolts that you take out)
  
• Assortment of metric open end wrenches, ratcheting wrenches, sockets, extensions, flat & phillips screwdrivers
  
• Mallet or hammer
  
• Exhaust manifold gaskets (you will have to remove your y-pipe)
  
• Someone to help you separate and line-up the transmission
  
• ALOT of patience (whole job took me around 24-25 hours from start to finish)
  
• 12 pack of your favorite brews (to reward yourself whenever you finish up)

Posted a couple of PDFs from the FSM that I used, but here is the full link:
http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old/files/05FSM/repair.html

Good video with some basic info.
https://youtu.be/kJBXW65Q2FU

Now that is out of the way, we can get started...

- Park the truck on a level surface and disconnect the negative battery cable

- Begin by removing your center console, cupholders, and shifter. To remove the shifter, you will need to remove a couple of rubber shift boots, and then push down on the silver portion in the center and turn it counterclockwise (details on this are located in the MT Removal PDF from the FSM attached below).

- For owners with the TRD short shifter:

Remove the four 12mm bolts holding down the shift seat, and then using a mallet tap on the shift seat lightly to break the seal and remove it. I had trouble pulling the trans back far enough without removing this. It must be removed because the spacer with the TRD SS kit makes it sit up too high and it interferes with the trans tunnel in the cab. NOTE: after removing the shift seat, stuff a couple of paper towels in the top of it so you can't drop anything into the trans.

- Drain the MT oil and then reinstall the drain and fill plugs hand tight.

- Remove rear AFR sensors with the 22mm open end wrench (NOTE: these are driver and passenger side specific due to different wire lengths. Bag em and tag em like all the other bolts you've taken out so far)

If you have the URD LT headers with o2 extension harnesses, you will likely have to remove your front o2 sensors as well- these are not side specific

- Remove y-pipe, and disconnect factory wiring connectors/vacuum hoses going to the 4wd actuator, speed sensor on the trans, and move the trans breather out of the way.

- Next remove the front and rear driveshafts (I have seen the rear not all the way removed, just the front section and the carrier bearing and then moved to the side and secured, but I took mine out so I could grease everything up). The front will HAVE to come out, no getting around that.

- Remove both manifold stays 6 bolts total (also outlined in the MT removal PDF attached)

- Remove slave cylinder cover (3 or 4 bolts), bolts holding on the slave (another 4), and bolt holding the hard line onto the bell housing (1 bolt). NOTE: you do not need to disconnect any hard lines. I simply removed all bolts holding everything down, and then moved the slave over to the driver side near the frame rail. I did NOT have to bleed the system during the replacement process.

- Support the manual trans/tcase with your trans jack. Then remove the #3 frame cross member. (again details on this in the MT removal FSM PDF). PICTURE IS BEFORE REPOSITIONING TRANS JACK


- Next, remove the trans mount insulator that rides on the crossmember. Once the cross member & insulator/trans mount is out, get a bottle jack and some blocks and lift up on the tcase lightly to support it while you reposition your trans jack more towards the rear of the trans, so it is better balanced.

- Once you have the trans jack repositioned, put a strap over the top of the trans and secure it to the trans jack.

- Start removing the 11 bolts on the bell housing. The FSM states that you need to remove the starter, but this is not the case, just remove the two bolts holding it to the bell housing and leave it sitting where it is. The top two bolts are going to be a royal pain in your ass. This is where a helping hand and a lot of patience come into play, along with the 3-foot extension, and u-joint 17mm socket.

- Once you get all the bolts out, start to wiggle the transmission while pulling back on the trans jack at the same time. This may take a little bit of effort to get it separated initially, but isn’t too bad with the help of another person and a long flat head screwdriver to get some leverage. Be very careful doing this, and stay in the clear of where the trans might fall in case you don’t have it balanced correctly. It is a good idea to get some wooden blocks and place them below the front of the trans in case it tries to fall forward. Once the trans is separated, slowly start lowering the trans and move it out from underneath the truck. You will need to have tall jack stands to be able to clear the frame rail as the front of the bell housing sticks up quite a bit. Once the trans is removed, here is what you will see:



- Inspect your TOB by turning it side to side and listening for any gritty or scratchy noise. Mine was not squealing/chirping yet, but it sounded dry whenever I turned it, so it was likely not far off from that point. Next, remove the shift fork/TOB by gently pulling on the top left side of the shift fork (this would be passenger side if the trans was in the truck). It should pop off without too much force needed. To remove the TOB from the shift fork, pull up on the retaining clip and slide it over to the side. This bit is a little hard to put into words, but is very simple and should make sense once you’re looking at it.

- ***IMPORTANT*** Clean the transmission input shaft off with a wire brush and then with brake cleaner to remove any burs or metal pieces. This is crucial to make sure that your clutch will engage and disengage smoothly and so the TOB and pressure plate can ride back and forth on the input shaft without binding. (this is also mentioned in the URD directions below).

- Using brake cleaner and rags, clean the inside of the bell housing and shift fork as best as you can.

- To install the URD sleeve, make sure you slide it all the way up against the back of the input shaft on the aluminum quill. Be careful when doing this, to not break the quill if you have to use a hammer or chisel to get it seated all the way. I was fortunate that mine slid all the way on without having to tap it into place. Refer to the URD instructions below to properly install the set screws with blue Loctite. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. The quill is very soft and is easily damaged. Get them good and snug, and make sure you use Loctite.


- Using high temp grease, pack the inside of the TOB and make sure all of the inside of the TOB has been covered. This is a reservoir for grease and is very important to ensure long life of your TOB. Lightly grease the two ends of the shift fork, and lightly grease the input shaft and URD sleeve. IMPORTANT- do not over grease the input shaft, too much can cause slipping of the clutch disk as outlined in URD’s instructions. Their instructions are very thorough so I would refer to those. I just wanted to make sure I would provide pictures of how the sleeve installs with the set screws- I was unable to find a pic of this, so here is my gift to you:


- After greasing the above-mentioned components, install the new TOB onto the shift fork and re-install the shift fork into the bell housing. The fork will pop back onto the section that it came off of and that will hold it in place until you get the trans back in the truck. Test the movement of the TOB/shift fork on the sleeve and make sure everything slides smoothly. It is also good to spin the TOB and make sure it sounds smooth and there isn’t any gritty noise when turning it side to side.



Now we move onto removing the old clutch disk and flywheel and re-installing the new one.


- Read through the FSM Clutch Removal PDF attached first. Then start by removing the clutch cover. Turn each of the bolts about ¾ turn at a time going around in a circle so that everything is removed evenly. Careful when removing the clutch cover and pressure plate. There is nothing holding the pressure plate in there (normally the trans input shaft does this) so if you’re not careful, it’s easy to drop it.

- Once you get the clutch cover off, you can then access the flywheel and start removing that. To do this, you will need to get a crow bar and place it on the cross member and up against the teeth of the flywheel to prevent it from turning while you break the bolts loose. IMPORTANT: Be careful to not let the flywheel turn freely during this process as well as when you bolt it back up, or you risk the timing chain skipping a tooth on the cam gears. Be sure that your crow bar or the block of wood will not let the flywheel turn, and then take your time and remove the flywheel and take it somewhere to be resurfaced, or replace it like I did. You MUST replace or resurface the flywheel so that the new pressure plate has a clean surface to grab onto, and so that it is perfectly even across the width of the mating surface.

URD Lightweight flywheel folks: you will be given three alignment dowels in the box with your new flywheel. Use a bench vise to press these in to approximately the same depth as the stock ones. Here’s how mine looked when I used a wood block and a hammer to try and seat them. I switched over to a vise and got them in a little further, it worked much better.


- Once you have the flywheel back from the machine shop, or you replace it, start by putting blue Loctite on the new flywheel bolts. Once again, make sure your crow bar or wood 2x4 is secure and does NOT let the flywheel turn. Get them all snug, and then start tightening them down in a diagonal fashion. Torque to 70ft/lbs. IMPORTANT: before proceeding on, clean the surface of the flywheel with brake cleaner to remove any oils or other residue that may have gotten onto it during install. Get it nice and shiny, like this:


- Next you will install the new pressure plate and clutch cover, but BEFORE you do this, clean both sides of the pressure plate and the mating surface that the pressure plate will touch on the clutch cover with brake cleaner as good as you can. You want everything super clean so that everything grabs like it’s supposed to.

- This is the side you want to face the flywheel:



- This is the side you want facing the transmission: (Notice the center portion of the disc sticks out more)


- IMPORTANT: Be sure you get the orientation of the clutch pressure plate correct or your new pressure plate will fail very shortly after install

- Carefully lift the new pressure plate and clutch cover into position and use Red Loctite on the bolts that hold it in place. I started threading one in to keep everything from wanting to fall, and then inserted the alignment tool all the way in to get things lined up perfectly BEFORE tightening any bolts. Leave the alignment tool in until you are done torqueing everything down. IMPORTANT: tighten each one of the bolts in a circular pattern (Outlined in the Clutch Removal FSM PDF attached). It is imperative you tighten each bolt down a little bit at a time so that you do not bend or warp the new clutch disc. Get them fully seated, and then torque them down in the same pattern to 25ft/lbs.


- Now you can remove the alignment tool and get your friend to help you re-install the transmission. Take your time doing this and DO NOT use the bell housing bolts to pull the transmission and the motor together. TIP: you may need to lift up slightly on the front of the motor with a jack to get everything to line up nicely.

- Tighten all the bell housing bolts down going around in a circular pattern. The 14mm bolts get torqued to 28ft/lbs. The 17mm bolts get torqued to 53ft/lbs. See the Manual Transmission Installation FSM PDF attached for reinstalling everything as a reference.

- DO NOT forget to fill your trans back up with fluid!

- IMPORTANT: Take it easy and DO NOT slip or abuse the clutch for at least 500 city miles. Take it easy for longer if you drive on the hwy frequently, id say at least 1000, if not 1500.

- Drink a few of your favorite brewskis and think about how much money you just saved by doing this all yourself!

UPDATE: I have about 1500 miles on the clutch and so far I am loving it. Firmer pedal feel, which I like, but not difficult by any means, just a nice upgrade over the soft stock pedal feel. Clutch is very streetable, but also grabs hard whenever you need it to, unlike the stock one, this one does not slip when going between shifts, it engages hard and holds good. Going to take some getting used to when speed shifting, but I can take care of that. Also love the lightweight flywheel. Revs noticeably faster in first and second gears, yet is still very drivable once you have the clutch broken in. Break in process is a bit painful with the lightweight flywheel since it wants to stall out easily, but it just takes some getting used to. Now that I can slip it just ever so slightly, it is a piece of cake. Keep in mind I live in the hill country, so I am constantly taking off from red lights on an incline, so break in might not be as painful for you. I would go with this combo again without hesitation. Let me know if you have any questions in particular, I'm more than happy to try and answer them

 

Really good write up, duder.

#moneysaved is right... I've done this four times now! Man projects are fun aren't they.

Thanks for the shout out, also that's the same trans jack that I have. Yours is much less dirty and banged up than mine.

 

Thanks man! Yeah definitely glad I saved the cash for the install. More money to pour into mods now lol.. This one wasn't too bad, just very labor intensive taking everything apart to get in there. Hopefully my trans jack stays that way! Don't want to drop this biggin' anytime soon

 

I know what you mean, I still have to see my physiotherapist about my shoulder after this last go at it.

 

Just bookmarked your writeup man. This is amazing, I'll use it next time I do the trans, lol. I'm so proud that the protege became better than the master.

 

Thanks brother! lol idk that im better than the master, i just figured someone could use this instead of going into it blindly like i did

 

Great job on everything best write up ever..!!!

 

Thanks Matt!!

 

I won't ever need your write up, but that's a hell of a job documenting the work for everyone else. Way to go man.

 

Thank you sir! Just trying to do my part to give back to all the good folks who have helped me out on this site! All i can hope for is that someone will find this useful

 

Badass write up & depecition man!! Ill definitely have to look into this kit! I replaced my clutch in march, then added the S/C in april and i noticed a power-loss since the install! this sounds like the perfect solution! thanks for sharing!

 

For sure! Definitely a nice upgrade over the stock pressure plate. Especially if you plan on adding other complementing power mods later on. The stock one just isnt up to the challenge unforunately. I also recommend doing the sleeve kit even if your tob isnt chirping. its good preventative maintenance

 

Let me know once it’s broken it how u like it. I got mine ready to be installed. Did u do the accumulator delete as well?

 

How much did you save?

 

Will do, im getting close to having it broken in. I have about 750 miles on it so far, but im still trying to take it easy since i drive alot on the hwy. I did not delete the accumulator, but i will be doing that in the future. Didnt know about it at the time i was doing my clutch

 

Not sure, im guessing somewhere around 1200-1500, but really depends where you take it

 

When the tsb came out for the throw out bearing. It paid 2.2 hours. Sucked. I got good at ripping those trannys out fast tho.

 

Damn that does suck.. cant imagine trying to do it that fast.. i bet you figured out how to drop em in a hurry though!

 

It’s a lot easier on a lift.

 

Good call, I want to point out though I did the same... but even with the sleeve kit it still started chirping on me. URD said 20% of the time this will happen. I have the hydro bearing kit, which has been fine so far in terms of the chirp.

Edit: the hydro bearing kit is not available and has an indefinite hold on manufacture for some reason.