TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Ah that makes more sense. Still annoying.

I'm looking into getting a knock-off Tactrix cable. Still need to call Toyota and see what they'll charge for a reflash.

 

I think I paid around 150 bucks.

 

I'm sure you'll get some drippage when you disconnect. I was replacing the master cyl at the same the time, so, I only had to deal with what was left in the lines. It wasn't too messy.
Maybe just suck the reservoir dry and then disconnect. Jam a piece of vacuum line or something onto the end of the line and let it drain for a bit before re-bending the lines to meet up with your bypass union. Then, refill and bleed.

 

1M

 

Miss my 98 E36 328i. That was a fun car. Drove like it was on rails and was so much fun to carve the canyons. Sure do wish I had started with a M3 saloon though.

 

Wait a minute!

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ywheel-install-write-up.577836/#post-19148316

 

That pdm link you posted looks exactly like the sleeve URD sells! figured that out after you posted up yesterday. Just installed one in my truck last week

 

Just have to keep pressing on, haha. I have been through 3 ECUs.

Original ECU, I applied Bully Dog tune and it was crap.

Second one, I bought a used ECU from eBay for $100, $600 mongoose cable and a $55 2-day sub to official Techstream to apply the TRD tune myself. Truck ran great with the TRD tune and keeping the cats.

Then UCON became available, which meant I could do long tubes and get rid of the cats. Installed UCON and it worked like crap with the TRD tune.

So ordered the my 3rd ECU. Got it from eBay for $100. Installed that to try with the UCON and it worked, thankfully.

During all this I also bought a used laptop from eBay for $300 to use as a datalog machine.

I’d like to try something from OVTune, but I haven’t seen anything of substance come from him for the 2nd gens. Just a huge thread full of nothing but delays and excuses (so far).

Happens every time.

 

Shit man, that’s quite a journey. Glad you finally got it sorted. Good to hold off on the OVtune craze. Looks like it’s going to be a while before it’s sorted.

 

I’ve owned and loved a few BMWs.

2001 325iT


2006 325i


2001 530i


2008 550i


The wagon was my favorite overall, though.

 

wagons are awesome. we are going to try to add an e46 to the stable when i do the e36 swap

this is what i have to work with. cloth interior too instead of leather which is rare.

 

LOL! Didn't realize this was a BMW thread, but I'll play...

The wife's first one was a 1999 325i, of which I'm unable to locate a picture, but it was Jet Black with a Sand interior and most of the options EXCEPT auto trans.

Her second was a 2005 330xi, Jet Black with Black interior and all the options EXCEPT auto trans.


Her third was a 2011 335i w/xDrive, Black Sapphire Metallic with Saddle Brown interior and most of the options EXCEPT auto trans.


We recently upgraded to a 2018 340i wXDrive, Mineral Gray Metallic with Black interior and ALL the options EXCEPT auto trans.

 

AFR gauges at last! Took forever to get everything wired up. Moved the boost and fuel pressure gauges to the a-pillar

 

Really nice. I am the reverse of you. Boost and oil press are on the column and afrs are on the pillar.

So is your suspicion of it being the passenger bank correct?

 

Set up looks familiar

 

Afr for each bank?
Sensor location pics?

 

I’m having trouble wording it right. But, y’all are my people.
Pics would be off topic, but check the Instagram linky.

 

Well here it is, at last I finally got some pending codes regarding my overly rich condition after fill ups. It happened again tonight after filling up tonight, fluctuating idle and went insanely rich at less than 9.0 AFR on my gauge and sure enough it was true. Confirmed my STFT's for both banks were -20% and above while the issue was occurring and found pending codes P2196 and P2198 air fuel ratio sensor stuck biased rich bank 1 and 2.

Ideas?

I know these air fuel sensors are not the cause of the concern, but what may possibly be concerns are either the purge valve, charcoal canister, or even the air pump being stuck.

It's difficult to test this situation because it only happens at fill ups.

 

U should have a system to rich code. P0171 or something too. Seems very strange that your it only happens on fill ups. Next time u fill up pinch off ur purge hose going to your motor. See if it helps. Only way it would get more fuel on fill up would be that way. Something wrong with canister. But I feel like you would have evap codes as well.

 

Only other thing I can think of if something happened with ur return line in the tank. If u fill it up to much something happens and fuel can’t go back into tank like it should making u have crazy fuel pressure. Do u have a fuel pressure gauge.