is 0-30w synthetic oil sufficient?

None of the Mobil 1 are blend, 7500 an 5000 are blends. Mobil has different technology then lets say Castrol who in my opinion produces crappiest so called synthethic oil on the planet. There was a lawsuit to stop Castrol labeling their products synthetics just because they are regular oil with extra additive to behave like synthetics, vs other companies including Mobil making true synthetic oils.

Personally I like to have best oil in the car possible. Reason for it is you never know when you going to work engine hard. I learned that one day with my VW when oil line for turbo bursted (it was a lemon). I believe Engine was saved by the 0W-40 that was there, much of the oil, had leaked, but what remained still provided enough lubrication for me to get to home..

 

Have you any proof?

By blend, I mean a blend of PAO, GRP II, III, IV and/or V stocks. Grp II is highly hydro-refined mineral oils as is GRP III.
GRP IV are 'pure' synthetic but do not dissolve additives (essential for formulating useable motor oil) and GRP V are horrendously expensive esters. GRP III are so heavily hydro-refined and similar in performance to GRP IV that they are 'synthetic' for all intents and purposes. (not my characterization...someone elses but I have no reason to doubt them.)

So it's only common sense to me that some blending has to happen if you're to make an affordable, useable synthetic motor oil! If you know how someone is NOT blending please let us all in on the article you got!

Don't mean to hijack OP's thread...if you wanna talk more on this maybe open another one?

 

I think Mobil Clean 7500 is a blend, and 5000 is conventional.

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Oils.aspx

 

Hey! great...I just got this from their q/a pages:

"Many synthetic oils, including Mobil 1, contain a variety of synthetic fluids and usually this includes esters."

Sounds like a blend of synthetic oils. But, understandably they are being careful not to call it that since it carries a certain stigma.

specific page is here:

http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Ester_Oil_and_Nissan_Engines.aspx

 

Good read, old paper, but describes the base oil groups and some history.

http://www.chevron.com/products/sitelets/baseoils/docs/ebot.pdf

When this paper was published, 9 years ago, the trend was away from Grp IV base oils to cheaper Grp II-III base oil blends. Think many predominately Grp IV oils still exist? Maybe a few niche players, but not many.

Remember, "Synthetic" is now a marketing term. You don't really know what you're getting in your "Fully Synthetic" oil, except it is not Grp I.

 

I'm running it. Not sure if there will be any adverse effects but it seems good so far. It is rated to meet all the requirements for the engine, so I dont see any harm in using the stuff.

 

it is multigrade oil so it has to contain multiple synthethis oils. It just does not contain regular oil as the filler. Thats what 7500 is, a little bit Mobil 1 mixed with regular oil. Thats why it is called the blend.

 

Are you running 0w-40 or 0w-30 ?
any leaks? oil burning ?
I had been adding a 1 qt of 0w-40 to 5w-30 at oil changes and so far ( 10k ) I did not notice any oil burning.

 

That link that was posted which I repeated is a multitude of information there. Good information.

Really it's worth reading, Oil 101:

http://ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php?faq=haas_articles

Where am I from ? BC Canada but been everywhere.

There is a possibility that there is a 0w/30 oil by Mobil 1 that is fully synthetic . Haven't seen a bottle so I haven't really looked at it.

According to this page it's fully synthetic.

http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_0W-30.aspx

 

PAO, Grp IV oils, don't mix well with additives and it is the additive pack that really seems to differentiate oils in the market place (within a grade, of course). From that perspective it makes sense that they'd be relied on less.

Which means 'Fully Synthetic' itself is only a marketing term...my point all along. Makes it even more important to pay attention to UOA's: they tell the true performance story of an oil.

 

Nice thought, but this is mostly a cost play for the refiners. Just so happens that there may be a technical reason. Also the true Grp IV oils can be made with predominately Grp IV with enough of the less than Grp IV for the additive mix.

Fully agree with that, been trying to spread the word myself. I blame Castrol for starting this non-synthetic sythetic BS, but it was only a matter of time before it started anyway since there's profit involved. We need an oil "ingredients" list to be mandated such that we know what we're getting.

 

If it really mattered....

May sound like heresy, but SM oils are just so darn good. Even Walmart blue bottle can have surprisingly good VOA's.

So long as you follow a reasonable OCI for the particular oil technology and useage pattern you can't go wrong and 250-300K is easily obtainable regardless what oil you're using.

I've joked before: don't even change oil. Just change filter and add makeup and you'll get to 5 years 60K (where the 'average' owner is ready for a new car anyway) with no noticeable problems. Most likely to 100K even.

Oh..wait...that's what winds up happening to most cars anyways...hmmm

 

Very true and I agree. Looking back on my posts I can see where that didn't really come out.

For my own requirements, any Grp II, III or IV (anything labelled "Synthetic") will more then suffice as I only plan to go 5-6K between changes, so it really doesn't matter.

It just annoys my to no end not truely knowing what I am buying. Bugs the piss out of me. Do I "need" to know?? Not given what I said above, it's just one of my personal sticking points.

For the OP, I would have no problems running a 0W-30 at all. In fact, I'll probably be looking for that after my next, and last, freebee oil change happens.

 

Just as an update, I decided to go ahead and skip my freebee dealer oil change and changed it myself to M1 0W-30 this weekend. I live just off the TX Gulf Coast and from the research posted here, and some other places, now believe in the 0w-* for all environments.

I also switch my motorcycle over to M1 0W-40. The MC is much tougher on oil as it has CV carbs and a wet clutch. The carbs tend to make fuel dilution of the oil a problem over time (loses viscosity as it's fuel diluted), while the wet clutch tends to break the VII chains in the oil (can lose viscosity due to oil shearing (assuming there are VIIs present in the oil)). I notice the shifting becoming noisy and clunky as the oil ages. We'll see how the 0W-* handles the Tacomoa and MC as miles add.

 

I have been using Amsoil synthetic (5W-20) in my taco for the last 10000 miles. I had used 10W-40 until switching to the 5W-20. I run a bypass filtration system and typically change the oil every 50000 miles. I change the bypass filter every 3000 and add another quart of new oil at that time. The ticking that was so prevalent and noticeable before HAS COMPLETELY DISAPPEARED. The engine is running beautifully. I use synthetic in the drivetrain and that truck is running flawlessly.

I would say that the hydraulic lifters are very close-tolerance machined and as such are not very tolerant to using oils with excessive viscosity ratings. My experience bears this out.

 

Why is it that so many people think 0-30 is thinner than 5-30? For all you out there that say its thinner at operating temperature, you need to sit down and do some research on viscosity ratings before you speak to soon.

The only difference will be at start-up temperatures, which will allow better lubrication at startup, particularly in cold temperatures. FWIW, It is quite hard to find 0-30 unless it is in a fully synthetic, premium oil.

 

+1

 

It meets the requirements for 5w30 and 10w30. Read up on it. I'm running it and i have no issues at 75,000 miles.... It's practically the same viscosity as 5w30. Now what does matter is the 30. Don't try to go up or down on that. You have room to play with on the 5 part. Which is why they RECOMMEND 5w30. Now do your oil change!

 

Well now I am due for an oil change and I am going to use Mobil 1 0w-30. Thanks guys for all the info.

 

If you visit Mobil 1's website, you can click on the link reading "
What's the right oil for my car?" If you enter the vehicle information and indicate a sub zero driving conditions and a preference for their best available full synthetic oil, the company recommends 5W-30 Extended Performance.