Long Travel BS Thread

Yeah I don't know what that means for fox. I'm 15/8 comp/reb for valving on my kings.

 

Nice if you have any issues on the kit let me know.

 

Sounds like your bumps are set close to perfect then. When i cycled my front I realized that im only using 6in of travel on 8" coil-over because 4x4 limits the down travel and with bigger tires and no inner fenders you can you go so far up before you need to relocate a a few things. ABS controller and battery. if i move those two a little more i could get anther inch. not sure i will ever do it.
Jeff just have an engine cage done. then you have something to support everything off of. The front will start falling apart sooner or later without it anyway. I need to make some kinda inner liner one of these days.

 

Is it normal to have to sand down a uniball retaining clip to get it to set in the groove?

 

I've considered an engine cage, but I'm gonna settle for an engine crossover. Plans in my head are a possible LS swap, with Solo XLT kit for when i do cage the truck. Just want to one and done it again. hahaha "and done".

 

Fox uses a valving chart that you can Google to find and have for reference. They have a little more valving options from the factory than King. A 2,1/70 is a a double .015 for the bottom shim and a .015 stack thereafter. Rebound is .012” shims throughout.

King uses different terminology but the idea is the same. I think a 15/8 is a .015” stack for compression and an .008” stack on rebound. In Fox terms, that’s a 90/30. Someone more familiar with Kings could conform?

 

Will do!! I appreciate that. Just looking forward to actually getting it on the truck

 

I don’t think it really matters as long as you notate your adjustments. It all varies off your truck and setup.

Let’s assume Fox sets the factory settings at 1/2 way. You’ll adjust the tubes according to how the truck handles. You just don’t have a good baseline yet.

 

Im picking up what you’re puttin down.
thank you

 

I did what everyone else recommended here and started with all tubes 50% open and then adjusted every couple of runs.

 

If he's right, and your rebound is 12's, you will want to lighten it up for sure.

 

yea the rebound is likely to be too much for a leaf sprung truck.
run the rebound all the way open.
then do some passes on a section with the compression tubes wide open...then do a pass with em closed all the way....feel the difference.
then go back and open the big comp tube all the way up and the little guy like halfway...try it....if it feels too soft then turn the big tube in a turn or two...try it.

basically its systematic trial an error. but most peoples problem is they cant tell the differences, hence trying both extreme ends first

 

I was under the impression that leaf springs made a lot more downforce and therefore typically need more rebound dampening.

You both seem to think otherwise.

 

Yeah12s
What are you rockin?

 

No leaf springs dont make a lot MORE down force lol. But the rebound is typically slow because of the bushings in the springs, shackle swing, and general characteristics of a leaf setup...majority of leaf trucks have very light rebound dampening they are notorious for "packing"

 

You’re saying leaf trucks have very light rebound (set correctly) because they tend to pack?

 

Yes leaf springs are naturally slow on rebound therefore the valving in the shock needs to be light for the rebound side.

 

8's on rebound and 15 on compression. So far it is working really good.