New England B.S. Thread

Don't tease me Rob!

You'll have to take a look at my map that goes from Pittsburgh to Allagash sometime to see if you can confirm some potential passes for me.

 

The leaking valve is working ( but yes it leaks) thanks
So Pugga and chase,
I think I figure out my issues or issues with heat. I stepped back and really thought my install out. Turns out I didn’t set system program out at all correctly.
I had it set for Hot water heater, gas or oil with fan and high-efficiency above 90%.
My system runs at about 86% with no fan.
So I carefully reread programming chart and was very much upset at myself for being little careless. I uploaded three pictures for my examples ( valve and program chart).
I then went downstairs to check on valve not working. As I think I mentioned, I manually moved it and it seemed to work, but not for long. I then removed cover to valve for a look. I checked for anything broken ,springs etc ., nothing. I then removed the round cap to look even further. I nudged the wheel or whatever it is on top and moved freely by itself ( sounded like gears), and when it stopped furnace kicked on an hot water moved right on through the lines. I turned temp up to see reaction and it turned right on again and steadily increased temp by running about five minutes at a time till satisfied.
I think while I was trying to move that switch I was gripping that cover and ended up pushing the cap too tight onto the gear making it unable to move freely.
Aside from keeping an eye on it ( I dropped the set temperature and it reacted and then I raised it again and it reacted so seems really good )
Do you have any suggestions?

 

Oh the pictures
Suggestions on valves?
Keep an eye on the leaker or replace( gonna buy part to have it handy)
And the valve I have just made work?
I DO NOT want to assume that I corrected that one , but having at least one replacement will be handy

 

Sounds like you got it sorted out, good job!

 

The valve that's leaking, just keep an eye on it. If it's just a very slow weep, I'd leave it be. That valve will not be fun to replace, you'd have to drain down the entire system and go through the refill and bleeding process (not terrible, but time consuming and will require you to sweat on a new valve).

 

I think I noticed in one of your other pictures that your oil line goes directly into concrete with no coating. It was hard to tell for sure from the photo and I am too lazy to go back and find it.

Ideally, you should replace that line. Concrete corrodes copper, so new installations always use a coated line.

 

OK Mike thank you very much.
However I do have a fairly dumb question. To a degree,will the programming of the thermostat not allow the zone valve to open? I tested the system in the reverse direction. I cooled down the house ,that was taking too long. So I put the thermostat on my windowsill with it open. I let the temperature drop on it ,reinstalled it , and she kicked right on and heat climbed up to set

 

Yes ,that’s correct . I will be running the Copper line up and over the floor and down to the furnace. Probably run it through the joists

 

The way mine works, when there is a call for heat, the boiler kicks on, zone valve opens and the pump starts cycling water. Once it reaches the desired set point, boiler turns off, pump turns off and the zone valve closes. My thermostats have a 'wake, leave, return and night' setting so it will do what needs to be done to maintain the desired set point within that time frame. For example, I set the morning set point to 70 and that lasts from 4 AM to about 9 AM. Within that time, the boiler will start and stop and the zone valve will open and close as needed to maintain 70. If there's no call for heat, the zone valve will remain closed. So, to answer your question, the program will, and should, tell the zone valve when to open and close.

 

Interesting find...
Normally these are 160-170$ for a single assembly but a pair for 200$... Koyo bearings and oem parts it looks like.

https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/161743314477

 

https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for...MC,TOYOTA&searchRadius=50&clickType=spotlight

holy shit $84,000

 

My EZPass transponder failed. I found this out when I drove to NY last week and it lit "No EZPass" at a plaza. I stopped at a service center in MA and they said yup, it's dead, and replaced it.

Because NY is the evil empire that they are, I got a nearly $17 charge for that toll. I only noticed because I got another replenishment charge for that account and it seemed odd. I just disputed it and in my summary I explained that it's an exorbitant charge for something a person won't know has failed until it doesn't work.

 

Well I always wondered what my truck would look like with plate bumpers. Question answered. It looks dumb.

 

They are usually really good at reversing the charges with EZPass. Like you said, how would you know? Every time I've had an issue I called them and the charges were reversed.

 

Looking back at my history, I think it's been dead for a few months. But, in MA it doesn't matter. They use your plate number instead and it hits your account in exactly the same way so I never even noticed. NY apparently isn't that smart.

 

what about fake vents and a larger definitely-functional hood scoop?

Although a plate bumper that isn't shaped like a massive underbite might look better

 

I will say this, NY EZ Pass is a LOT easier to deal with than MA EZ Pass. MA are absolutely terrible! I had a NY EZ Pass for years, until this whole electronic tolling thing. I got reading the signs and realized that MA charges extra for an out of state EZ Pass (not sure what sort of BS they're running there but whatever). Since I have to take the Pike every day, I traded the NY one in for a MA one. I've been trying for months but I haven't been able to successfully add the camper to my account. They have to send me a bill every time I tow it.

 

I never wondered what those would look like- I already KNEW those would look like shit...

You'd have to be a complete flippin' fool to pay $84k for a 1500 with the 5.3L and Elevation pkg. You can buy a Denali HD Duramax for 20k less. And it won't look like a hooker on meth.

 

I bet some bro with more money than taste will buy it