TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Who worked on that pulley last? If you use locktite you are going to have a bitch of a time getting those off.

The last time I removed my 2.3 pulley bolts off to up back up to the 2.5 my bolts were hella tight. I never used any locktite on it either. Just saying. If it makes you feel better though, I dont see the harm in adding a drop to each screw as an insurance policy.

 

I'm under the hood almost every day. I swore I tightened them in a crosshatch pattern really well. I had the hood up this morning when I got to work. I was in a hurry and didnt notice. Just got home and popped the hood running. Shut it off and instantly saw it. Damn, I got really lucky. I sent @crashnburn80 a video. He wasn't liking the music either.

 

Yeah those noises were pretty aweful. I could totally see it being from the loosed pulley bolts like that though. Serviceable locktight still seems like a good idea. We did use cross-hatch and a allen extension on a 3/8” socket. I recall being worried about over tightening and stripping with the 3/8” drive though. Perhaps traditional allens would be better. Glad it was a simple fix.

 

This is exactly what i was going to say. I've been considering using blue loctite on mine. After seeing this, i definitely am going to do that..

 

@White lightning boosted so were those funny noises coming from your pulley being loose?

 

Umm.... yeah. Hey, found my calling in life. Every forum needs an idiot. Good thing spark plugs have coil packs to hold them in. I'll use loctite on my plugs next time too.

 

Im just glad you got it sorted before it was a major issue and it was an easy fix more importantly! You have peaked my interest though.. Dare i ask what happened with your plugs??

 

That's weird. However, when I tighten mine I just go down the line in a one after the other tightening sequence. Nothing special about the tightening sequence.

As the forum's "pulley man" (lol) in the tens of thousands of miles and many many pulley interchanges and step downs I have done with my setup I have never had an issue with the qwikchange setup, but being that every vehicle is different and every setup is different add a small dab of locktite for insurance policy on yours. Dont wet the whole bolt in it otherwise you will wish you never put on any locktite at all in the first place. I recommend the blue kind if you feel adamant about running some on the bolts. As red is for people who want to watch the world burn.

 

Nothing. I actually didnt screw those up. I amaze myself sometimes. Joking about the loctite on plugs guys. I'm more smarter than that.

 

Hahah good. Had me worried there for a second Jesse

 

You are smarter than you give yourself credit for. You cured my MAF glitches that I was having with the URD intake AND you cured just about all of my mid boost knock I was experiencing due to the heavy 90* curvature causing the same turbulence that the MAF didn't like. For that my man, you are the MVP for the month in my book. Lol.

 

Thanks. I still have a 60* and 30* bend if needed. Should I sell my stock intake? The point of no return was a few miles back.

 

If you dont live in a state where smog is prevalent, then sure. I must keep mine for smog purposes so I have to keep my stock one on no matter what.

The additional bends you have will not be necessary. If the setup suffices for my 2.3 pulley they will for yours as well.

On a side note I have ran my 2.5 pulley. I no longer want to run it ever again unless it is smog time. Life is so much better with the smaller of the two pulleys.

Anyone know where I can get my 2.3 anodized in black?

 

Powder coat?

 

That's your blower telling you your pulley isn't small enough lol

 

Good deal. I ordered one. Hope it clears the stock fan clutch

 

That all depends on whether or not you have the correct size belt, as I mentioned previously in the thread today, tensioner arm height is set by the belt, not by a predetermined stop point of the tensioner itself. If the belt is too tight it will cause the tensioner arm to rest at a higher level in comparison to a belt which is for example a half inch shorter.

Yes correct length matters that much. Those with e-fans need not worry about correct belt length as much.

Performing any sort of wrap mods to the blower pulley setup will cause the arm to sit at a higher level then previous, and you run the risk of hitting the stock fan clutch. After install of tensioner assembly and the belt. Always check your arm to fan clutch distance. If it hits the clutch blades you either have the wrong belt size (which is too tight) or you have overdone the pulley wrap mods and you need to allow a little bit of slack in the system.

I hope this helps.

 

Suggestion sir- how about a photo on page 1 of a reccomended setting for the belt wrap mod? Just a thought.

 

Is everyone in here that does the pulley rip mod just using a dremel to notch their pulleys?

 

Me yes. I did a pretty half ass job. I used a micro drill bit instead of a cut off wheel.