$10 DIY Power Lock Tailgate

Yes the apparently quickly understood the importance of have the same key for the doors and tailgate...…

 

It is when you have a manual transmission, tonneau cover, truck is running with key in ignition, and you remember you need to throw something back there or get something out. It's one of my favorite mods. But please, keep finding things people enjoy and tell them how useless it is. It's so helpful and appreciated.

 

Should the tailgate be locked or unlocked when the actuator is at full extension ? Ordered the parts and this might make sense when I see it I’m just trying to wrap my head around how to line it all up. Any tips on this would be great.

 

Sub’d

 

It depends on where and how you mount the actuator. Mine is fully extended when it is locked. The actuator pushes the locking mechanism to lock and pulls to unlock.

 

All that I’ve seen on here appear to be extended to lock. I did all my wires yesterday and am waiting to get the actuator delivered. Took me a lot longer than what I’ve seen posted here for install time. Enjoyed doing it.

 

Wow how good I miss this, going on the old to do list...

 

I don't remember, but I do know if it is backwards, you can just reverse/change wires and it will be right.

 

Thanks all my parts arrived from Amazon. Might give this a try tomorrow.

 

Why not solid copper ? I have a bunch of

$54 Mediabridge™ 14AWG 2-Conductor Speaker Wire (100 Feet, White) - 99.9% Oxygen Free Copper – ETL Listed & CL2 Rated for in-Wall Use (Part# SW-14X2-100-WH)

this 14 awg speaker wire left over. Will it work ?

 

That’s not solid copper so it will definitely work.

Solid copper wire is normally just way too stiff for automotive use, and there is no good way to splice/connect it to other wiring in the car. In home use, you can use wire nuts but those are a big big no-no in automotive use. So soldering or properly sized crimp connectors are the way to go, and those don’t work well with solid wire.

But mostly the stiffness.

 

Got it. Yeah i was thinking more the material being pure copper makes sense solid household style wire would be a no go.

 

I'm sure this has been posted but I didn't wanna go through all 11 pages lol.
Do you sell the enclosure box? I have a pop n lock, but how loud it is is getting annoying and i'm lookin to quiet it down a bit.
@mesojdm

 

Is this just for the 3rd gens ?? Work on a 2nd gen ?

 

Thanks to all who have posted here. This is a better, cheaper, and better documented fix for this obvious Toyota omission than either PnL DIY or dealer (also PnL), imho. I finished mine this morning, just under the 1-year mark from new purchase. I “personalized” mine a bit, with all Amazon parts, of course, so thought these photos might be useful...

 

Love that wire loom. Just be careful with the connecting rod having that much bend and elevation change..it could lead to binding.

 

Yeah the sleeving looks great color matched! Makes me want to build another PC!

 

I did worry about the angle. Thought about a spacer bracket, but I think the linkage flex makes it viable.
As to the loom, I’d never spend for that on a PC, but to “match” my truck, anything!
For those considering this, there are 2 concerns I’ve seen in other threads:
The lock wiring is exposed, so reduces the lock system security, and the tailgate has no open sensor, so there’s risk of locking the fob in the bed. Both identical to the PnL/dealer solution.

 

I don't see why it wouldn't work. Mounting may be a tad different, but the application will be the same.

 

So after almost a year of having bought all this I’m going at it right now and just realized I’m crafty, but not electrician type. So I know nothing about tapping into these wires. Can someone explain that part. Connecting my wife to the actuator wires and then into the truck. And the pieces I’ll need to do it.